texasRanger

Can anyone tell me what the AARCMCC rules are in relation to replacement engines. For my V-One-S which currently has a GS15. Is there a list of potential engines I could select from as replacements ?

Or will my V-One-S last only as in the AARCMCC "stock" class as long as I am able to get replacement engine parts, etc ?

TexasRanger

Dishy

Texas Ranger,
Just to throw a different oppinion in the mix. My setup goes something like.

F Diff: No oil
R Diff: No oil

I tried all sorts of combinations of diff oil from 2000wt to 50000wt front and rear and found none worked for me so I keep my diffs clean and only use a light grease to stop wear on the gears.


F Toe: 0-1 Deg
R Toe: 1-2 Deg

I find the less toe the better but I do need a little more on the rear to keep the car stable when the back wants to step out.

F Canber: ~2 Deg
R camber: ~1 Deg

I use to run more like 4-5 Deg but my foams started to look like cones so I have dialed it back a little.

Shock oil is the same standard stuff that came with kit. Never changed it, will get around to it one day.

Springs: kyosho hards all round. But if I find the car is a bit too tail happy I change to med on the rear.

Tyres Foams GQ 40 shore rating.

Glow plug OS #8. has served me well from day one.

Two speed tranny. I haven't changed the gear ratios from the ones that come in the box. I do find the gearing a little short. But can't complain about the pull out of corners.

Droop:
I unscrew all the little grub screws so that the suspension arms have thier full travel. Personally I think limiting suspension travel to fix a handeling problem is the wrong way to go about it.

I think that is everything. I know it is very different from most people. But, I like it.

Dishy

Blazin~

Dishy,
Thanks for your advice,
Great help.

Cheers,
Blazin~

tiNtiN

Hey everyone, to fix the alignment I tryed putting the little plate that was behind the flywheel of the GS15R on the new engine and it lined up perfectly... i wasn't sure that it was gona work out because the plate would be loose on the shaft and would not center, but when tightened and centered on teh shaft it was fine... I then checked the 2-Speed manual to see if it has any info and they did the same thing!
Thanks for the help anyways
lol thank god i don't have to redrill anything...

texasRanger

Hi Dishy,

Thanks for detailing your setup.

I was quite interested in the fact you run no diff oil. Initially I did the same, but was told it makes quite the difference. After doing it, no so sure, but then I am still learning.

Interesting that your on foam tyres - What track do you race at, if you don't mind the question.

Are you regularily racing? If so, what class?

TexasRanger

texasRanger

Hi All,

Quick clutch question!

I am currently using the clutch that came with the car (which I got second hand), plus a new clutch spring, but at idle (as low as I can get it, without stalling), the car is just ready to take off, without the breaks on.

The clutch bell does spin freely of the clutch shoes & flywheel when out of the car.

Has anyone had a similar problem?

Thoughts on how to fix this?

Thanks inadvance,

TexasRanger

Ed Anderson

iTrader: (26)

That spacer your showing is not the same thing. Its about 5mm thick and fits tight on the crank. Your supposed to use it along with the part FD-49 (it comes with the FD-49) when installing an OS FP.10. What you did might work but what you really need is a FD-49 (without the spacer). It is thicker and stepped on the back, than the stock flywheel.

Dishy

Texas
Don't race regularly in an orginised competion. But I do occasionaly race friends at the dandy track on stud rd.

I found with diff oil I could get a lot more grip on the front end but the back end was terrible. Every time I went out with a lighter diff oil then last time in the rear. The handeling would improved but it got to the point I was running no diff oil in the rear and the tail still couldn't keep up with the front. I ended up removing all the oil from front and rear just to get the balance of the car back. Yes I have less grip on the front. But the car is more balanced now, with slight oversteer so I can balance the car mid corner with the throttle.

Dishy

tiNtiN

Ya sorry, the plate I mentioned was the FD-49, which i got off of the GS15R...

I think my car is idling at too high an RPM... when I hit the throttle slowly.. the engine starts reving higher... but the new UM210 clutch doesn't seem to engage instantly... if I go fullout from stop it's fine... is this just because this clutch is meant for racing that it doesn't let me accellerate slowly at the beginning? or is it the fact that the spring is just too tight? any comments would be helpful. Thanks!

never mind... just read a post in this thread about the UM210...

"The UM210 is made of "vespel" material it has a lower co-efficient of friction than standard and therefore allows the clutch to engage at a later point. This gives the car a quicker and more agressive take off.

gt"

firestang

Mine has been gone for a while now and it's no longer being raced so here was my setup.

Diffs - no oil , only stock grease from the kit - two spurs only in each diff.( my theory on this was to cut rolling resistance)

shocks/ springs - standard kit , with 60 front and 30 rear oils.

Toe rear - nil

Toe front- 1deg out

caster/ camber 0

Front servo standard- lowered as low as it could go with the use of spacers under the deck. Lower CoG
Battery - Mugen pack , 2/3 the weight of the standard hump pack with a lower profile, moved in the the center of the car to help CoG and body roll.
reciever - sanwa ( very small , both it and battery fits in the compartment doing away with the stupid top box)

Standard tank with primer plugged
3 racing chassis
3 racing alloy center pulley
Motor plate removed and replaced with proper mounts. This did nothing for wieght but again lowered the CoG by 2.5mm. Had to dremmel the chassic a bit to allow the pullstart to sit down.

gearing was the longest i could get for it , can't remember the ratios now.
However the motors power is delivered lower in the rev range so the change point was very quick to stop first from flattening out (you hear it all the time, cars take off then get to the end of first gear , go flat then change into second, thats one second per lap at times wasted) to enable the second gear to bang in fast when first is at it's peak and use the torque of the motor to pull away.

It was a very quick SII and not alot needs doing to make em honk along , just common sense. I think in a way they are better than the FWO5S due to the friction in the belts giving a more predictable handling characteristic while braking and cornering

FlyinMozart

Hi I have wear out my 2 speed spur gear.It seems that the gear is not very durable.Anyone knows which brand have a harden spur gear tat fits V1S??

Chaya

I have my v1s2 for 3 years now and havent encountered a problem on my stock gears. All I have to do is to check my gear mesh before starting playing. Be sure that the engine mount is also tight to avoid engine movement which may eventually result to improper gear mesh once you start running your kit.

FlyinMozart

Yup I was unlucky tat my engine mounting screw came loose n screw up my spur gear now got a hard time to find replacements...

Chaya

What I know is you can order it as a set ( are you in 2 speed already) just like in our lhs here. Why not try ordering on any ebay or online shops.

FlyinMozart

got a last piece of the spur gear today at a shop.went playin juz now .Damn Engine mount screw came lose again.Grind my new spur gear I m using a GS racing V12 .12 engine I dun understand how come it keeps getting lose.