V-ONE S Thread
03-20-2004, 05:30 AM
#3976
Re: droop
Originally posted by dangles
droop the easy way. handling all depends on weight transfer. too much to th front u get oversteer not enough- understeer if u have heaps of rear droop there is a lot of downward travel in the susp ie lift the rear of ur car from the normal ride setting the amount the chassis is lifted before the wheels lift of the ground is th droop. so by giving more droop there is more weight to the front giving more steering, less droop not as much weight to the front less steering. does this explain it any better. also it will help any newbe's
droop the easy way. handling all depends on weight transfer. too much to th front u get oversteer not enough- understeer if u have heaps of rear droop there is a lot of downward travel in the susp ie lift the rear of ur car from the normal ride setting the amount the chassis is lifted before the wheels lift of the ground is th droop. so by giving more droop there is more weight to the front giving more steering, less droop not as much weight to the front less steering. does this explain it any better. also it will help any newbe's
03-20-2004, 05:36 AM
#3977
Also while a helper like you is awake i would like to learn more about the 2 speed problem on the VoneS apart from the sola site i was wondering if i can get more info on it like a review or something. There was a link about it on this thread but has dispeared somewhere. Below or some questions in point form for easy reading and answering 
1/when the 2 speed fails because of that pin does the whole 2speed fail or just 2nd spur gear?
2/when it does fail is it a simple repair or do we have to replace the whole 2 speed unit?
3/how many brands products can i get the 2 speed in? for example kyosho, 3 racing, kawa... (whatever that brand name is)
4/any other way to mod the 2 speed other than gluing it as it looks abit dodgy.
all comments appreicated VoneS owners :P
Cheers
1/when the 2 speed fails because of that pin does the whole 2speed fail or just 2nd spur gear?
2/when it does fail is it a simple repair or do we have to replace the whole 2 speed unit?
3/how many brands products can i get the 2 speed in? for example kyosho, 3 racing, kawa... (whatever that brand name is)
4/any other way to mod the 2 speed other than gluing it as it looks abit dodgy.
all comments appreicated VoneS owners :P
Cheers
03-20-2004, 06:16 AM
#3979
thanks dangles ill do the mod as soon as i get my 2 speed
also do any of you guys use hump pack batteries in your reciever box? does it fit? cause by using a hump pack (5 batteries in total like the vone RR uses) it gives out 6 volts as opposed to 4 aa which = 4.8 volts. which then results on your servos having more torque and speed!
also do any of you guys use hump pack batteries in your reciever box? does it fit? cause by using a hump pack (5 batteries in total like the vone RR uses) it gives out 6 volts as opposed to 4 aa which = 4.8 volts. which then results on your servos having more torque and speed!
03-20-2004, 06:26 AM
#3980
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
almost all the racers at my club use some form of pack instead of the aa's. i use a venom flat pack which is 6v others use the hump pack. the 5 cell hump packs are 1.2v a battery total 6 volts. most aa's are 1.5v so u r still getting 6 volts either way. most ppl use these packs so in case of a big collision a battery cant pop out and create a runaway which is not good-even a failsafe wont fix this problem due to no power to the failsafe unit. a failsafe is designed to apply brakes when frequency clash/ low power conditions are met
03-20-2004, 06:56 AM
#3981
Originally posted by dangles
almost all the racers at my club use some form of pack instead of the aa's. i use a venom flat pack which is 6v others use the hump pack. the 5 cell hump packs are 1.2v a battery total 6 volts. most aa's are 1.5v so u r still getting 6 volts either way. most ppl use these packs so in case of a big collision a battery cant pop out and create a runaway which is not good-even a failsafe wont fix this problem due to no power to the failsafe unit. a failsafe is designed to apply brakes when frequency clash/ low power conditions are met
almost all the racers at my club use some form of pack instead of the aa's. i use a venom flat pack which is 6v others use the hump pack. the 5 cell hump packs are 1.2v a battery total 6 volts. most aa's are 1.5v so u r still getting 6 volts either way. most ppl use these packs so in case of a big collision a battery cant pop out and create a runaway which is not good-even a failsafe wont fix this problem due to no power to the failsafe unit. a failsafe is designed to apply brakes when frequency clash/ low power conditions are met
thanks dangles for ya input.
03-20-2004, 07:03 AM
#3982
also how much are setup stations worth brand new at the Local hobby shop. Tried some online site and it didnt show any pics of the complete setup station.
is integy a good brand? its the alloy version.
Im looking for a station that i saw at the local race tracks and it was bolted onto the outta drive shaft.
All i want is to adjust camber caster toe in etc... and maybe droop if that cant be set by eye.
off to bed nitey nite :P
is integy a good brand? its the alloy version.
Im looking for a station that i saw at the local race tracks and it was bolted onto the outta drive shaft.
All i want is to adjust camber caster toe in etc... and maybe droop if that cant be set by eye.
off to bed nitey nite :P
03-20-2004, 07:04 AM
#3983
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
http://www.venom-racing.com/ to see their flat pack. i actually run a smaller square type one but can no longer get them
03-20-2004, 07:12 AM
#3984
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
setup station
one of the better kits u wont need to buy anything else to measure droop/ride height etc
HUD108250
http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/326.html
$140 us
HUD108250
http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/326.html
$140 us
03-20-2004, 01:28 PM
#3985
Droop, Rx power, set-up stations and ....
Ok, ok.
I know what droop's purpose is, it's just one of those things you have to adjust, run, note, change and start all over until you have the "balance"; front, back, up and down. Unlike measuring degrees and knowing your car likes 2 degrres out on the front with 3 in on the rear.
RX batteries are good and alkalines are ok. The rectangular configuratiopn of the RX battery holder is tough to fit in some cars, especially the V One S [stock] unless you get a smaller Rx as well. However, a strap is what I use on the youngest's 4TEC and he has yet to lose a cell under the worst collision(s).
Hudy set-up systems are good, just shy of great only because the plexiglass can break [and then there was CA glue] and the markings can be difficult to read at times. The Integy version feels sturdier and the the marks are very easy to read [I own Hudy]. On kits with rear post/suspension combinations, like the RR, make sure you get the correct rear prisms. If not, you'll wind up disconnecting the posts to affix the prisms onto the car. OR you could cut down the extending portions, since they interfere with most touring bodies anyway [ I cut/shave mine down just enough to fit the touring bodies since I keep a Lola body handy in case an "open" moment occurs]. Set-up systems are invaluable!!!
And finally, no. Don't need money, just hate having a car that wants to race. However, I will take any charitable contributions and accept Visa, MC and Amex! LOL LOL
This entire post is meant to humor and express the opinions of a frustated RCer that should be smelling nitro rather than ....what am I doing? LOL LOL
^5s
I know what droop's purpose is, it's just one of those things you have to adjust, run, note, change and start all over until you have the "balance"; front, back, up and down. Unlike measuring degrees and knowing your car likes 2 degrres out on the front with 3 in on the rear.
RX batteries are good and alkalines are ok. The rectangular configuratiopn of the RX battery holder is tough to fit in some cars, especially the V One S [stock] unless you get a smaller Rx as well. However, a strap is what I use on the youngest's 4TEC and he has yet to lose a cell under the worst collision(s).
Hudy set-up systems are good, just shy of great only because the plexiglass can break [and then there was CA glue] and the markings can be difficult to read at times. The Integy version feels sturdier and the the marks are very easy to read [I own Hudy]. On kits with rear post/suspension combinations, like the RR, make sure you get the correct rear prisms. If not, you'll wind up disconnecting the posts to affix the prisms onto the car. OR you could cut down the extending portions, since they interfere with most touring bodies anyway [ I cut/shave mine down just enough to fit the touring bodies since I keep a Lola body handy in case an "open" moment occurs]. Set-up systems are invaluable!!!
And finally, no. Don't need money, just hate having a car that wants to race. However, I will take any charitable contributions and accept Visa, MC and Amex! LOL LOL
This entire post is meant to humor and express the opinions of a frustated RCer that should be smelling nitro rather than ....what am I doing? LOL LOL
^5s
03-20-2004, 09:05 PM
#3986
yea im thinking of getting the integy setup station that has the purple alloy gauges. like you said hudy's cant break and the clear white marked scale can be fustrating when tryin to set up your car perfectly for hours. thanks for the tip! and thanks for the venom link dangles. if my radio tray doesnt fit that flat pack ill just get the hump pack like the VoneRR has. And tom i sold my VoneRR and im getting a brand new VoneS tommorroW!
03-20-2004, 11:45 PM
#3987
I fit 5 cells in my reciever box on my S with no problems, with the flat door as well 
Make the configuration like this
ORRR
OOOO
Fits perfectly
Reciever slots in were the R's are, the O are the cells.
Make the configuration like this
ORRR
OOOO
Fits perfectly
Reciever slots in were the R's are, the O are the cells.
03-20-2004, 11:50 PM
#3988
with that kinda configuration or setup you'd have to make it yourself like a saddle pack (side by side) and soilder those small electric bars across the batteires ? ahhh blah! i'll just go with the hump pack setup or the flat one which ever fits best but thanks for the tip.
but thanks for the tip.
03-21-2004, 04:01 PM
#3989
Sold V One RR?
But why?
Didn't want to jack with the engine-exhaust manifold issue that would have ran you big bucks? Don't blam ya if you did.
Good luck!
Didn't want to jack with the engine-exhaust manifold issue that would have ran you big bucks? Don't blam ya if you did.
Good luck!
03-22-2004, 03:56 AM
#3990
Nah it wasnt the motor issue anymore as i found a guy at the local tracks that gets stuff overseas so i could get engines cheap it came to a point where i didnt appreciate the car anymore as its second hand. I want a NEW car! for 3 reasons.
1/to build it myself for pride and joy. and so when something breaks ill know how to dissasemble things and put them back together. (its easy for expreinced guys to say.)
2/knowing how the car has been treated. (a car is like our women! we love them as much as women and we dont want to have seconds off other guys! :P)
3/It would make me appreicate it more and want to learn how to tune the engine and suspension where as a 2nd hand car i cant be bothered.
i just blabbered on about nothing! haha anyways i've shifted the date to wednesday as to picking up my car! so yea that will give me some time to get some diff gears and shock and diff oil etc...
1/to build it myself for pride and joy. and so when something breaks ill know how to dissasemble things and put them back together. (its easy for expreinced guys to say.)
2/knowing how the car has been treated. (a car is like our women! we love them as much as women and we dont want to have seconds off other guys! :P)
3/It would make me appreicate it more and want to learn how to tune the engine and suspension where as a 2nd hand car i cant be bothered.
i just blabbered on about nothing! haha anyways i've shifted the date to wednesday as to picking up my car! so yea that will give me some time to get some diff gears and shock and diff oil etc...