Lowner_V1S

iTrader: (1)

Nitro Joe Im runnning OS CV-R .12 On My V1S series 1 their pretty good engine...

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

Hi guys i got a 2 speed question i would like to ask!
with the 2 speeds for the kyoshos is there only one brand or can i get a different brand 2 speed for the v one s? how many brands can i get all together for the 2 speed for the v one s? as i've heard that theres a particular 2 speed brand (maybe the factory kyosho one) that is really hard to fit or set for the v one s. do you guys know anything about it?

Tom G

Parts
This is what I added, itemized until a few months ago:
‘01 V One S Hop-Up List
[(very) far from stock]

Chassis and Suspension
-Kyosho Wide Bumper; black
-3D Front sway bars [plus optional Kyosho front sway bar: soft, medium and hard]
-GS Blue Wheel nuts
-3D 0 and 2 degree Wheel hubs (4 ea., blue/natural respectively)
-Kyosho aluminum threaded shock bodies with 10 sets of springs
-Kyosho Special Chassis; 3mm gold aluminum
-Kysoho Special Graphite Radio Plate w/ 75cc fuel reservoir
-Kyosho Special Roll Bar
-Kyosho Special Antenna Holder
-3D Aluminum pulley gears on front diff, rear diff, middle belt pulley (both) & rear drive pulley
-GS Blue Aluminum 3x8mm tapered-head screws w/ Red washers [throughout chassis]
-HPI Natural Titanium 3x8mm screws [throughout chassis]
-Dynamite Fluorescent yellow fuel tubing & trim
-Ofna Fluorescent Yellow Servo Saver
-Kyosho Titanium Steering Rods
-Dynamite Blue Aluminum Servo Arm (throttle/brake)
-Ofna Fluorescent Yellow Throttle Linkage Kit w/ chrome and blue [bars and collars]
-GS Fluorescent Yellow Linkage Cups and Ball Ends [throughout]
-3D Brake bar
-3D Brake Disc [vented]
-3D Shinny CVDs [rear]
-Kyosho Rear sway bars: soft, medium and hard


Drive Train & Power Plant
-Kyosho Special Engine Mounts [blue]
-OS .12 CV-R Engine w/ Slide Carburetor, Cooling Head [blue] and Header [chrome]
-Dynamite Foam Air Cleaner
-GS Fluorescent Yellow Exhaust Coupler
-Nova Rossi Tuned Pipe
-Kyosho 2-speed transmission [14/17-43/40 tooth Spur Gear combination]
-3D Aluminum Spacers [rear drive train]
-Kyosho Aluminum Adjustable Diffs; front and rear

Electronics
-JR XR3 Tx w/ Sanyo Rechargeable batteries & Dynamite Charger
-Novak XXL FM 75Mhz Rx w/ JR receiver/power switch
-Hitec HS-645MG Ultra Torque steering servo & JR Z270 throtle servo
-Peak Racing 6v 1100Mah hump Rx battery pack

Accessories & Miscellaneous Items
-Blue Antenna Tube w/ Yellow cap

Owner Info: Kyosho “V One G”
Tom G.
Sportsman
Dallas, TX, USA

Tom G

TTT

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

Guys,

I bought the Kyosho active diff for my G4 but have found that it will not fit. So, I am selling it.

It is brand new in the package.

$35 shipped. It is $53 at tower hobbies.

email me at [email protected]

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

Hi guys im getting a brand new VoneS on monday and was wondering what nitro% do i need to run it in with?(break in the engine) and i dont mind buying 2 types of nitro% if thats what the correct procedure is. and im not getting it local so thats why i cant ask my hobby shop.

Tom G

I normally get Traxxas 20% fuel and use it for the first 3 to 4 tanks. It is super lubricated since Traxxas engines tend to run a bit hotter than most other manufacturers.

I then switch to Trinity 20%. Although I try to experiment with other fuels from time to time, I have better consistency with the Trinity.

Good luck!

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

thanks for that tom.

Tom G

No sweat. I usually have enough Trax 20% for the my youngest, so having some isn't an issue. He loves to run lean.

I don't like O'Donnell, something just doesn't seem to float my boat. I'm using Sidewinder and it's ok, nothing great, nothing bad. It just happens to be about $17USD/gallon at the local track and I know the stock is fresh.

If I could afford to keep Trinity, I would. At the LHS, it rurns about $12USD/qt! Ouch! The gallon price is easier to swallow, but with a dirt oval in their back yard, the LHS sells a lot more of the Sidewinder...that Trinity gallon seems to have been around since forever and the owner is a bit, well, uhmm, ahhh, greedy!

If it wasn't for the guys at the counter, I wouldn't even visit the shop.

As long as you have a decent brand name fuel, you'll be ok. The key is running the same fuel you plan on racing. You'll know it and your engine, making life easier when you start adjusting to weather and atmospheric conditions that makes engine tuning tricky. I'll finish-out with Sidewinder for the season and then look for that Trinity all over again.

Then again, I know racers that will put anything the find in their tanks without a second thought. That's how I think of my real car, not my RC....it is so much more dear to me..LOL L OL

^5

Tom G

Brain!

Honestly thinking about selling it. Can you believe it?
LOL LOL

dangles

iTrader: (10)

just been reading through this thread and noted how all newbe's just want to get hop ups to improve their driving.
ive been racing for about 15 months now and with my first v one s which was stock except for the motor. using kit springs,shock oils, diff gears etc and found that with the right setup i could match those that had spent $$$$ to try and improve their lap times. one thing i noted on setup was that droop can be ur best or worse friend, before i change anything at a track i play with droop settings first.

Tom G

Hop ups are designed for specifics. Longer lasting, speed increases, weight lightening or just plainly for "dressing" it up.

Al gears tend to save belts. Ti trun buckles tend to take impacts better. Springs make adjustments easier to make with a known constant. Diffs to adjust traction conditions in combination with driving style. So on and so on.

But you are right. If you already have a race level kit, you can improve the kit with adding to the package but ulitmately, setting your car or adjusting the set up is where you should go. Not the LHS.

Part of set-ups is to find what works for your car, that day at that track to suit your driving style. Hop-ups are usually used for kit improvements like those mentioned above. And RCs are much like billiards, the balls will roll different everyday; sometimes in your favor and sometimes not.

Thus, my V1Ss's retirement; too pretty to run, too expensive to repair or replace parts. Although I gotta admit, I love to run "ol' faithful".

Droop! Well. When I can really, truly understand it, then I'll paly with them a lot more...LOL LOL

Dangles, you ever get those set up sheets?

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

lol are you in need of money tom g? or whats the reason in selling the supa hopped up VoneS?

dangles

iTrader: (10)

yes i did i though i wrote a thank u in the other thread but if i didnt then thanx. heres the website if any one else wants to d/l them http://www.kyosho.co.jp/setting/index-e.html

my one s now has options i just wanted to try and let the new comers know that if ur not that competitive in a standard car then not to expect a great deal of improvement with some of the hop ups

dangles

iTrader: (10)

droop the easy way. handling all depends on weight transfer. too much to th front u get oversteer not enough- understeer if u have heaps of rear droop there is a lot of downward travel in the susp ie lift the rear of ur car from the normal ride setting the amount the chassis is lifted before the wheels lift of the ground is th droop. so by giving more droop there is more weight to the front giving more steering, less droop not as much weight to the front less steering. does this explain it any better. also it will help any newbe's