neons

Hi Guys...

Lets start this one up again...

I have 1 question:

I have a VoneR, and it was running a little rough, so I tore it down to clean it all (as in down to the last screw/bearing), and rebuilt it...now there seems to be some binding in the rear end...

When I push the car forward, it'll roll maybe 1 ft. at the most before it comes to a halt, and its a pretty rough 1 ft...I blasted all the bearings, and re-lubed them with bearing oil, and they run pretty free, and a couple feel a little gritty, but not blown...

Its not the brake/brake disk becuase I can unscrew the pads all the way out and it'll still have the exact same feeling...

I've tried taking the engine out, and it still does the same thing.

How "FREE" is the drivetrain supposed to be? Should I be able to roll it and have it roll for 5-10 ft without it feeling like there's a lot of resistance?

Any help/insight would help.

Thanks

Jeremy

Manticore

check that you have the right pulley in the right place as it is very easy for you to mix up 18 and 19T pulley. other then that, it is normal on a new VoneR. you should free up the drive tran after some runs.

neons

I am sure about the pulley's...don't have them mixed up...

I have already 9 tanks of running (after break-in) on the car...

Maybe its a blwon bearing...maybe the 2 spd gear shaft is bent somehow?

The rear belt is the shortest, so it can't be the wrong belt, cuz if anything, it should be loose...hmm...well I'll tear it apart again and see what gives.

Thanks

Jeremy

Manticore

So, what was your finding so far about the tranny?

neons

I haven't torn it down yet...will do so on Mon. or Tues. night and find the culprit...

I have a strange suspicion that it may actually be a SLIGHTLY warped/bent 2spd gear shaft.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks

Jeremy

Manticore

you dont need to torn it down to check the main shaft.

neons

I know...

But there's a big race coming up here in Toronto, and since some of the bearings are still a little gritty after cleaning and lubing, I think i may just replace all the bearings with rubber sealed ones...but I have to check on the cost of that.

But I'll keep you posted.

Thanks

Jeremy

nitro dave

iTrader: (15)

what diff and shock oils do you guys run. i use the standard kit oil for the diffs but 70wt integy oil for the shocks.

neons

I found the culprit...it was 2 small pebbles wedged in the teeth of my rear diff pulley...all good now.

As for shock oil...I use Associated 60 wt.

I find the car VERY twitchy when going fast...not very stable...anyone have any ideas?

I'm not using stock springs...I traded this car for some of my other stuff, and the stock springs didn't come with it.

Could this be the problem? Maybe its too stiff?

Thanks

Jeremy

Diva

iTrader: (20)

What's your rear toe-in? Mine is 3 and it's pretty stable.

Manticore

Use the lower hole for the camber link on your rear upright. this will give you less camber change on corner and i.e. more traction. Ensure your rear toe in is at least 2.5'

bbntc3

OK guys I'm an die hard Ae car freak and have been looking at the V1R pretty hard!!! Does anyone race the car ? How does it rank with other makes of cars like the mugen or serpent. I've been waiting on the NTC3 but after the sneak peek kinda have some doubt! I have a friend in Cali that races it a loves it, just want some input!!! I've been told it handles a lot like the TC3 what do you guys think!

Manticore

The V1R is designed for racing. It has all the feathers that MTX2 and Impluse with some extra design that the former two doesnt have. Great tunability and durable car. I have never run a TC3 or TC3 GP but I am so sure for on-road racing you better get a belt drive rather then a shaft drive car. I have no doubt people should run a shaft drive for rally racing.

bbntc3

Manticore- Why belt over shaft? I've raced the TC3 conversion for 2 years and love it, all it really lacks is the 2 speed! It races right with the best of cars on tracks less than 125ft. and the parts availabilty is great!! I've never had to pit because of a small pebble getting into a belt pulley, and maintance is much simplier on a shaft car. You say you have never driven a shaft drive car? I have driven both and I think the shaft drive is better! Its harder to drive but once you get the feel your hooked!!! Try it you might like it!!!! Parts availabilty is a big thing here , I've had friends wait 2 months for kyosho parts to be shipped accross the wide waters! No offense! I'm sure you have the same trouble with US cars, Oh! I forget you guys probably don't drive US cars.

Manticore

Dont worry, we have fun over here. we share insight too.

You see all of the top notch 1/8 on-road are all belt drive car while all of the top notch 1/8 off-road are shaft drive car. There was once a shaft drive 1/8 on-road from italy but it died silently.

Further more, the Nitro TC3 is too ugly to own. from the preleased pictures, it just like somebody put up a metal stomach on the car.