tonylunatic

iTrader: (45)

Really

Markcuda

iTrader: (2)

For what I am going to do with my car, the stock servo might serve me ok.

BuddyBaja

Anyone else have issues with the brakes sticking? I am running all the SP brake stuff and when I go full brake it stays locked until I give it some gas. Going to order some ofna springs to see if it helps.

Jspeed

That usually happens when replacing the pads & rotor and not getting the correct bolts for the pads.

The bolts needed for the SP pads have a shoulder and are not threaded all the way; so, if you’re using the original screws, the pads will hang up on the threads. That’s what it sounds like to me. Hope it helps.

BuddyBaja

I thought so as well but I am using the correct shoulder bolts. I'm going to mess with It some more and see what happens.

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

anyone have any tips/tricks for removing the front diff with minimum disassembly of steering/front end components? I searched most of this thread cause i'm sure this has been covered but can't find anything. thanks

Jspeed

In that case maybe double check the brake cam to see if its not backwards.

I’ve put it in backwards when in a rush, you’ll see that one side of the cam is flat and the other side has beveled corners to let it roll off the pad when you release brake pressure. If its backwards the sharp corners will bind and not release pressure on the pads.

Another thing to check is that there’s not too much gap between the pads and rotor. That can also jam things up and not allow brake pressure to release. If none of that works, then maybe some of those springs is the answer. Good luck.

Jspeed

You can do it without removing the whole diff case assembly from the chassis. It might take a little more time, but you won’t have to mess with any of the steering linkages and stuff......

Start by removing the tires, bumper & body supports, sway bar and shocks. Then pull off the c-clips on the lower arms in the front. Next remove the lower metal pin holder by removing the two screws that go into the front of the diff case cover.

After that you remove the four screws that hold the diff case cover and remove it, you’ll have direct to the front diff.

Make sure you make a note of which side the diff ring gear is and where the shims are on the diff outdrives, that way it all goes together the way it came apart.

Put a little car wheel bearing grease on the ring gear when putting it together, so its not dry and button it all up together again.

You’ll have to play a little with the axels to get them in the diff cups when sliding the diff back into the case, but take your time and it’ll all go back together fine. Once you've done it a few times, you'll breeze thru it fast.
Good luck.

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

As of Monday I will from now on.

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the tip. got that problem handled now on to the next. what non-kyosho brand bodies fit the gt2? the protoform gt body is too short unfortunately. the price and looks are tough to beat. are the clear kyosho bodies the same sub par quality as the ceptor body my kit came with? it cracked from its own weight as I pulled it out of the box. $70 for a clear body is a little much especially if it's paper thin.

Jspeed

You can consider the Ipanema Warrior GT race body. Hi-Quality Lexan material, very strong, aerodynamically proven to be the fastest, most stable hi-speed GT body and typically 6 MPH to 8 MPH faster than anything available.

There’re plenty of YouTube videos with guys running over 100 MPH with it and has gone 146+ MPH to prove all claims. Winner of multiple GT World Championships and GT races around the world since 2010.



Designed to fit both short & long wheelbase GT car chassis, you just make the rear wheel openings where you need them.

There’s also a very nice universal chassis Warrior CNC cut matching 1” thick, hi-density foam front bumper too. It's designed to adsorb impact, protect the body, your chassis from damage and increase the body’s aero-dynamics and top-speeds.



All Proudly Made in the United States of America.

Hope it helps, good luck!

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

thanks! will be ordering one tonight. do you have to vent them any special way to let air in w/o messing up the aerodynamics? also if anyone has purchased a kyosho clear corvette body let me know if it's ok or thin and weak. I like to put together scale bodies with lights and stuff.

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

another question. what can be done to take the play out of the steering? I know a better servo would help with some of it. can't find any aftermarket steering parts except for a aluminium one from hongkong on ebay which I'm guessing is junk. maybe replace bushings with bearings?
sorry i've been bombarding this forum but just got a gt2 and have been obsessed with it.

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

one more dumb question. I have always cut vents I to the windshields on all the previous bodies for my nitro cars. i'm about to order the corvette body to make it really scale with lights and all. is it necessary to cut out vents? will the engine get to hot if I don't?

Dan

iTrader: (75)

http://kyoshosan.blogspot.com/2014/0...2014.html#more

Looks like a gasoline engine GT2 kit is in the works.