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Old 06-12-2012, 08:40 AM   #76
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gotcha! I thought i took care of that flexing issue by using the r246 chassis and snug torq rods. I guess ill go ahead and pick those posts up too, i just hope my order hasnt been processed yet.

I actually prefer the blue ones (cheaper) and remove the anodizing to match the rest of the car.

Thanks again C!!
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:49 PM   #77
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Just got back from absolute hobbyz, great buncha guys joe & chad!!

After all this, I need to hold back and put the new big bore shocks on hold ($90 upgrade :O)



any build tips for the IF21/IF106 ring and pinion gear? should I be using the paper trick on these gears as well?

Also, how much should I shave off on that IFW160?

while I wait for your replies, off to de-annodize those radio posts
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:24 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by VexVegaz View Post
Just got back from absolute hobbyz, great buncha guys joe & chad!!

After all this, I need to hold back and put the new big bore shocks on hold ($90 upgrade :O)



any build tips for the IF21/IF106 ring and pinion gear? should I be using the paper trick on these gears as well?

Also, how much should I shave off on that IFW160?

while I wait for your replies, off to de-annodize those radio posts
I don't think you can get paper up in between them lol. Um, It's just a shim by feel kind of thing. I usually shim mine so tight that they don't move, then pull 1 shim out and see how it feels, sometimes need to take out 2. But the straight cut doesn't need too much play. After you have them shimmed right use some good heavy/tacky grease on them. That'll extend their life even more.

I can't help ya much IFW160, probably going to be trial and error thing. I would assume somewhere in the 2-3mm range possibly more.

Last edited by C-Trickle; 06-12-2012 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:46 PM   #79
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Thanks for the reply C, i also picked up a jar of track power grear grease to use with the ring and pinions gears.

The thing about the shaving off the uni drive shaft is how close the grub screws is to the end where it meets the pinion gear shaft. if i shave off too much it weaken it and end up splitting when i tighten the grub screws. I guess ill take off some from both ends to compensate if needed.

Thanks again!
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:06 PM   #80
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Vex, another piece I replaced (just incase you haven't) is the front upper plate (IF312GM-01). After I taco'd a couple chassis I noticed that the stock part was also bending nicely. I noticed that with the replacement part the front chassis brace had a little better support. Just my .02
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #81
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Vex, another piece I replaced (just incase you haven't) is the front upper plate (IF312GM-01). After I taco'd a couple chassis I noticed that the stock part was also bending nicely. I noticed that with the replacement part the front chassis brace had a little better support. Just my .02
+1 Grab ya the King Headz 777 one, that will bolt right on with the RT246 chassis. Plus major bling haha. Form and function, what more could ya ask for!
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:33 PM   #82
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Thanks Mc & C, .

oh its a king head part, then no i havnt gotten there yet.

that might be something i pick up along with the big bore shocks, but at this point im already stretching my budget towards rc parts so it may be a few weeks before i go any further.
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:25 PM   #83
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Thanks Mc & C, .

oh its a king head part, then no i havnt gotten there yet.

that might be something i pick up along with the big bore shocks, but at this point im already stretching my budget towards rc parts so it may be a few weeks before i go any further.
Yeah, you don't have to do the King Headz, but I mean if you're upgrading......

I'm still iffy on the big bore shocks. I haven't had any problems with the stock shocks. They're simple, light, effective, easy to rebuild, and inexpensive. Plus way smooth for plastic shock bodies. My only problem running the big bores is that you have to run the option springs, and they're softer than the stock springs. I have ran the softer option black springs in the rear with good results. But I would actually rather have a stiffer spring over softer, so ya. I never did the big bores.
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:23 PM   #84
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I should have elaborated on the story, which im embarassed to even tell honestly.

The car wasn't ran for about 2.5 years so me and my buddy grabbed them off the shelf and completly went though his GT and my GT2. Well the car wouldn't crank (come to find out the glow plug ignitor wasn't charged)

So we charged the glow plug and I messed with the throttle trim to allow a higher idle just upon initial start up it wouldn't stall. So once it finally fired, it had an extremly high idle and as Im sure you know the brake wouldn't engage so I could stall the car because the servo was adjusted to far on the throttle side. So in a state of panic my friends lifted the car in the aie to try and adjust the idle and keep it running.

This all happened in about 10 seconds, the initial fire up to over revving the motor.

Ive been in and out of Rc my whole life and I was so upset yesterday because I knew what to do, I just simply paniced and watched my motor blow up haha
As one of the "friends", it was sad to see. It was pretty crazy to watch though.
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:38 PM   #85
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Hi guys, As a newbie and one of Jeffrey's friends trying to get his other GT running well I've got a couple carb questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Current status:
Starts well
Stalls upon take-off and dies
Will often die when I remove ignitor
Medium heat glow plug being used
I let it idle for a few minutes before trying to take off
I let the ignitor stay on 20-30 seconds before removing
Low speed needle backed off 7 turns
high speed needle backed off 8 turns
After running the carb body is full of gas
Running VP 20% fuel

I guess my key questions are:
How many turns should the needles be backed off to return to stock settings? I inherited the car so I'm not sure where it really began. I've searced some but don't know if the info is reliable? I think the manual call for measurements from screw head to edge of screw housing in mm.

Also do I need a hot glow plug?

Sorry for the long post!
Thanks,
Damon
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:10 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by michael knight View Post
Hi guys, As a newbie and one of Jeffrey's friends trying to get his other GT running well I've got a couple carb questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Current status:
Starts well
Stalls upon take-off and dies
Will often die when I remove ignitor
Medium heat glow plug being used
I let it idle for a few minutes before trying to take off
I let the ignitor stay on 20-30 seconds before removing
Low speed needle backed off 7 turns
high speed needle backed off 8 turns
After running the carb body is full of gas
Running VP 20% fuel

I guess my key questions are:
How many turns should the needles be backed off to return to stock settings? I inherited the car so I'm not sure where it really began. I've searced some but don't know if the info is reliable? I think the manual call for measurements from screw head to edge of screw housing in mm.

Also do I need a hot glow plug?

Sorry for the long post!
Thanks,
Damon
Seems to me you are rich top and bottom. Try the top 5 turns from closed and the bottom 4 turns from closed and and see how it does. If better begin playing with the top in small increments, an hour at a time and see which direction the you get better performance keeping an eye on the temps. Once you have the top diled in work the bottom by checking how quick the car gets off the line when full throtle. Again small increments at a time. You dont want the car to stall by starvation or by bogging (too much fuel). Chech how it revs. If it revs up quick and dies, too lean, starvation. If ir bogs and stall, too rich, lean it out. At the end of the exercise you will probably be idling high, adjust your idle screw. By just readjusting your top and bottom screws as I mentioned at the beggining you should be half way there. Then it is just trial and error untill you get there.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:12 PM   #87
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Get rid of the Dragon Chassis, they are sssoooo weak. Get either the RT246 chassis or the STR chassis. Also get the SP Aluminum radio posts, IFW401B, and torque them on with some good stainless hardware. This will tie the radio tray to lower chassis and make it more like a dual deck chassis design. After I did that it was noticeable that the suspension was doing all the movement, not the chassis. I went through 1 stock chassis and 2 Dragon chassis' in a year. Went to the hard anodized 777 short chassis, did the SP radio posts. Try all you want, you can't get that combo to flex!
Unfortunately I can't use those posts. As all my GT2's are brushless. I have another ST-R on the way, but for now I am going to try to the RS Chassis. Let's see how that goess. Thanks.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:09 AM   #88
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Unfortunately I can't use those posts. As all my GT2's are brushless. I have another ST-R on the way, but for now I am going to try to the RS Chassis. Let's see how that goess. Thanks.
Hmmm. Possibly fabricate up a Y plate from the top of the bell crank posts to the center diff up right.
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:23 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by Cayo71 View Post
Seems to me you are rich top and bottom. Try the top 5 turns from closed and the bottom 4 turns from closed and and see how it does. If better begin playing with the top in small increments, an hour at a time and see which direction the you get better performance keeping an eye on the temps. Once you have the top diled in work the bottom by checking how quick the car gets off the line when full throtle. Again small increments at a time. You dont want the car to stall by starvation or by bogging (too much fuel). Chech how it revs. If it revs up quick and dies, too lean, starvation. If ir bogs and stall, too rich, lean it out. At the end of the exercise you will probably be idling high, adjust your idle screw. By just readjusting your top and bottom screws as I mentioned at the beggining you should be half way there. Then it is just trial and error untill you get there.
Thanks, I'll give it a try. Sounds like some solid advice.
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:03 AM   #90
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Has anybody put the Inferno GT on the ST-RR chassis? The 378mm wheelbase intrigues me for an on road car. I think you could mount a body up to split the length difference between the wheel openings. Just not sure about drive shafts though. SteveP, have you played around with this or know anybody who has?
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