27LikesKyosho Inferno GT, GT2 Race Spec
07-22-2013, 12:12 AM
#616
Let me ask you guys something, The team C aluminum hubs are 70.00, i sell a good amount of them. would it be too much money for 0 hubs that cost a 80.00 out of aluminum? 3d printing them would be higher than that and not near as strong, i could have them made out of aluminum for about that much but not worth the investment if nobody will buy them.
07-22-2013, 12:18 AM
#617
Never been to Nugget’s raceway yet, looks like a excellent track. 
Haven’t run Kyosho’s IGT1 chassis or their Ferrari since back in 2008 when we started racing these GT cars on Florida’s tracks.
If I start racing in the Florida State Series again this season, it’ll be with my Ipanema Warrior body, Sirio CL7R-STI & Blackhawk transmission equipped IGT2 ride.
Hopefully I’ll see ya at the races!
Haven’t run Kyosho’s IGT1 chassis or their Ferrari since back in 2008 when we started racing these GT cars on Florida’s tracks.
If I start racing in the Florida State Series again this season, it’ll be with my Ipanema Warrior body, Sirio CL7R-STI & Blackhawk transmission equipped IGT2 ride.
Hopefully I’ll see ya at the races!
I will be at the FORGASS opener with a Orange Mclaren IGT1 (my Avatar pic)....see you soon !
07-22-2013, 12:22 AM
#618
07-22-2013, 07:51 AM
#619
Nice car Jspeed...do you favor the IGT2 chassis over the IGT1 ?....I have both cars and the IGT1 seems to turn easier ...but I love the look of the extended chassis on the track ...lol
I will be at the FORGASS opener with a Orange Mclaren IGT1 (my Avatar pic)....see you soon !
I will be at the FORGASS opener with a Orange Mclaren IGT1 (my Avatar pic)....see you soon !
Last edited by JLock; 07-22-2013 at 09:08 AM.
07-22-2013, 08:23 AM
#620
I have both cars as well (GT1 and GT2) and I usually run my GT1 and short to medium size tracks or tracks with a lot of tight, technical turns/sections. I run the GT2 on medium to large speed/free-flowing tracks where turns are more open and more stability with speed is needed. Using the right diff oils in the front/rear of the GT2, you can get it to rotate better for more steering/turn-in on tracks with tight turns if you prefer to use that chassis.
Yeah , I am starting to see the long chassis cars work very well. Probably going to switch back to the long and try it out again.
07-22-2013, 08:41 AM
#621
Nice car Jspeed...do you favor the IGT2 chassis over the IGT1 ?....I have both cars and the IGT1 seems to turn easier ...but I love the look of the extended chassis on the track ...lol
I will be at the FORGASS opener with a Orange Mclaren IGT1 (my Avatar pic)....see you soon !
I will be at the FORGASS opener with a Orange Mclaren IGT1 (my Avatar pic)....see you soon !
While the longer IGT2 might lend itself to being more of a “target” for some on small tight tracks, in Florida we are graced with several large flowing hi-speed tracks to choose from.
There wasn’t much of an advantage between the two wheelbase lengths on tracks like Fort Meyers, Homestead or Kissimmee; except maybe in qualifying( but then again, how many fast qualifiers turn into disappointing dnf’s in the mains?)lol
The IGT1 might be a little more nimble, but the IGT2 always felt a little more relaxed and not so twitchy at higher speeds; especially when running 45 to 60 minute A Mains on our big tracks here.
The IGT2’s additional length is mostly all added behind the engine, so the actual center of gravity is further forward than on an IGT1, promoting slightly better hi-speed steering & balance.
So, while the IGT1 length may be favored on smaller tracks, where let just say there's more "friendly bumping” is going on; I favor the additional 35mm length of the IGT2 in “clean” racing situations and on big flowing hi-speed tracks.
Btw, if you need more steering, there are two types: mechanical & aero……. If aero or hi-speed steering is what you’re looking for…… you should try the Ipanema Warrior GT racing body, it was designed specifically to “work” on hi-speed tracks; like ours in Florida.
........... which just so happens to be the reason so many fools have tried to outlaw it's use in GT racing over the years; ever since it helped good old Paul Roberts win the 1st GT World Championships at Homestead.
Take care, all the best!
07-23-2013, 09:03 AM
#622
It seems like a common misconception on the internet, since I’ve run both lengths for years.
While the longer IGT2 might lend itself to being more of a “target” for some on small tight tracks, in Florida we are graced with several large flowing hi-speed tracks to choose from.
There wasn’t much of an advantage between the two wheelbase lengths on tracks like Fort Meyers, Homestead or Kissimmee; except maybe in qualifying( but then again, how many fast qualifiers turn into disappointing dnf’s in the mains?)lol
The IGT1 might be a little more nimble, but the IGT2 always felt a little more relaxed and not so twitchy at higher speeds; especially when running 45 to 60 minute A Mains on our big tracks here.
The IGT2’s additional length is mostly all added behind the engine, so the actual center of gravity is further forward than on an IGT1, promoting slightly better hi-speed steering & balance.
So, while the IGT1 length may be favored on smaller tracks, where let just say there's more "friendly bumping” is going on; I favor the additional 35mm length of the IGT2 in “clean” racing situations and on big flowing hi-speed tracks.
Btw, if you need more steering, there are two types: mechanical & aero……. If aero or hi-speed steering is what you’re looking for…… you should try the Ipanema Warrior GT racing body, it was designed specifically to “work” on hi-speed tracks; like ours in Florida.
........... which just so happens to be the reason so many fools have tried to outlaw it's use in GT racing over the years; ever since it helped good old Paul Roberts win the 1st GT World Championships at Homestead.
Take care, all the best!
While the longer IGT2 might lend itself to being more of a “target” for some on small tight tracks, in Florida we are graced with several large flowing hi-speed tracks to choose from.
There wasn’t much of an advantage between the two wheelbase lengths on tracks like Fort Meyers, Homestead or Kissimmee; except maybe in qualifying( but then again, how many fast qualifiers turn into disappointing dnf’s in the mains?)lol
The IGT1 might be a little more nimble, but the IGT2 always felt a little more relaxed and not so twitchy at higher speeds; especially when running 45 to 60 minute A Mains on our big tracks here.
The IGT2’s additional length is mostly all added behind the engine, so the actual center of gravity is further forward than on an IGT1, promoting slightly better hi-speed steering & balance.
So, while the IGT1 length may be favored on smaller tracks, where let just say there's more "friendly bumping” is going on; I favor the additional 35mm length of the IGT2 in “clean” racing situations and on big flowing hi-speed tracks.
Btw, if you need more steering, there are two types: mechanical & aero……. If aero or hi-speed steering is what you’re looking for…… you should try the Ipanema Warrior GT racing body, it was designed specifically to “work” on hi-speed tracks; like ours in Florida.
........... which just so happens to be the reason so many fools have tried to outlaw it's use in GT racing over the years; ever since it helped good old Paul Roberts win the 1st GT World Championships at Homestead.
Take care, all the best!
07-23-2013, 09:06 AM
#623
I have both cars as well (GT1 and GT2) and I usually run my GT1 on short to medium size tracks or tracks with a lot of tight, technical turns/sections. I run the GT2 on medium to large speed/free-flowing tracks where turns are more open and more stability with speed is needed. Using the right diff oils in the front/rear of the GT2, you can get it to rotate better for more steering/turn-in on tracks with tight turns if you prefer to use that chassis.
07-23-2013, 09:08 AM
#624
07-23-2013, 11:04 AM
#625
07-23-2013, 12:26 PM
#626
You mean to tell me there are NO optional spur gears for that tranny? I have no idea what tranny i have in mine can you post a pic of yours or even both of them side by side please?
Have any of you just flipped the C hubs? if the kick up is the standard 15* and the hubs are 17 thats only 2* positive and i bet you could shim the kick up t get that at zero. Since the chassis has kickup it wont feel like a flat chassis zero. i have done this before and it works rather well but takes some adjustments in the rear to gain grip. I will try it out and see. My son will be racing the car this coming weekend so i will make some changes and see how it goes.
Have any of you just flipped the C hubs? if the kick up is the standard 15* and the hubs are 17 thats only 2* positive and i bet you could shim the kick up t get that at zero. Since the chassis has kickup it wont feel like a flat chassis zero. i have done this before and it works rather well but takes some adjustments in the rear to gain grip. I will try it out and see. My son will be racing the car this coming weekend so i will make some changes and see how it goes.
There was the fable....myth....or ??? that you could just 'swap sides' with the carriers. I didn't get to see this take place recently but I heard that 'Spooky' tried it and quickly got convinced that was a 'NO GO' because of horrible results in the steering.
I'm not sure you want to drop to 'zero' on those in aluminum, but when you do produce them $80 is not out of the question. The CNC front hubs are in that ballpark and I've got those. I'd be happy losing 'half' of that darn caster angle Kyosho has in them at the '17 deg.' mess.
You can see that someone has been 'close' to the fix but while modifying the mold to fix the 'bumpstop' on the front carriers they just missed the whole point. If they had only fixed the 'angle of the dangle' while they were there!!!!!!
I think I had the only Kyosho GT at Timezone running against Serpent Cobra, Ofna and Spooky's TeamC. That was due to the fact that my Serpent cruise 'shakedown' wasn't going well so I got out 'Old Trusty' so I could still play. The 'steering deficit' was quite evident but that Kyosho has never run so good.
07-23-2013, 12:55 PM
#627
Mechanical is low-speed and aero is hi-speed.
On the big tracks of Florida, aero rules.
07-23-2013, 01:01 PM
#628
Mika has been involved many years in the 'Rallye Game' side of GT and responded to my question about the actual developed caster angle and he came back with '17 degrees'.
There was the fable....myth....or ??? that you could just 'swap sides' with the carriers. I didn't get to see this take place recently but I heard that 'Spooky' tried it and quickly got convinced that was a 'NO GO' because of horrible results in the steering.
There was the fable....myth....or ??? that you could just 'swap sides' with the carriers. I didn't get to see this take place recently but I heard that 'Spooky' tried it and quickly got convinced that was a 'NO GO' because of horrible results in the steering.
I do wonder....... has anyone tried swapping the Serpent optional c-hubs on to an IGT yet?
A lot of "team" guys use parts from other cars...........
Last edited by Jspeed; 07-23-2013 at 01:22 PM.
07-23-2013, 05:28 PM
#629
Yeah Jerry, we all tried the swap thing years ago when we were all happy members of the IGT Proboards, before the 1st GT Worlds & the BS of the tire wars started, it didn't work.
I do wonder....... has anyone tried swapping the Serpent optional c-hubs on to an IGT yet?
A lot of "team" guys use parts from other cars...........
I do wonder....... has anyone tried swapping the Serpent optional c-hubs on to an IGT yet?
A lot of "team" guys use parts from other cars...........
07-23-2013, 07:32 PM
#630
Pre- order is up for the bodies gentlemen at RCShox.com! It will end around the 30th i should have them in my hands around the 5th and will ship out ASAP!
NISSAN GTR
Maclaren MP12
Ferrari 458
NISSAN GTR
Maclaren MP12
Ferrari 458
