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Old 07-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #211
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jay is done with the gt-1... gt-2 might take awhile,i will be ready for saturday
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:07 AM   #212
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Originally Posted by *1speedy View Post
Cole here is another suggestion

Run the front diff with a Very Thick front diff oil 120 or higher and adjust the steering from the rear with 30 or 40 weight. or whatever you want to try. Works great for us. Kinda like what a common TC with front and rear diffs would do

Give it a shot worst you can do is blast me if you dont like it I have tough skin

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+ 1 on that info , what a difrrence , thanks
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:47 AM   #213
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Default Help!!!

I have been running the basic Jspeed seet up for a LONG time - and I even have the sheet. BUT it's printed somewhat small when compared to the 'new' Inferno GT sheet and I'm having trouble reading it since it got near some form of oil that soaked through the sheet...

Jspeed or anyone else still have a copy of this that they could either post or post a link to or email to me at: chriskov47 AT gmail DOT com

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:49 AM   #214
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+ 1 on that info , what a difrrence , thanks
Anytime

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Old 07-10-2012, 07:52 PM   #215
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These just showed up today - we've been waiting for these for a while. Nice to have an new livery on the DBR9...
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:32 PM   #216
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Default Leaking diffs...

I'm having difficulty with the self-tapping diff screws backing out---causing the diffs to leak, which cause the diff to blow. Do I simply change the diff cup, and is it a bad idea to reuse the diff cup when trying different oils? Will using machine screws help? Tx.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:35 PM   #217
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try using metric screws, it should hold the diff case together more securely.
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:13 AM   #218
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I'm having difficulty with the self-tapping diff screws backing out---causing the diffs to leak, which cause the diff to blow. Do I simply change the diff cup, and is it a bad idea to reuse the diff cup when trying different oils? Will using machine screws help? Tx.
I stopped using self tapping screws and went to metric fine thread machine screws that I purchased at Ace Hardware. This change in fastener completely stopped the problem that I had experienced with the self tapping screws backing out and causing the diff to fail.

I am not sure of the size it may have been 4x10 or 5x10. If anyone knows the proper size please post it so that others can take action to stop this problem.


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Old 07-11-2012, 06:38 AM   #219
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The screw sizes to attach the ring gear to the diff housing are 3x12mm. 3x10mm machine screws are typically used to hold the ring gear because they're threaded all the way to the end, where the original self tapping screws easily give up a couple mm just in the tapered "self-tapping" tip of the screw. I would suggest the Kyosho 1-S33010H or you can go with 15mm screws, but you'll have arm pump when you get finished installing them. Kyosho has 12mm machine screws in steel and titanium, but they're Phillips head screws. I don't recommend using titanium screws. I don't think they're strong enough for this application.

Last edited by SteveP; 07-11-2012 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:23 AM   #220
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Use 3x16, no more problem
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:45 AM   #221
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whats the best plug to use in the stock gt2rs motor , cold,med, hot. what works best for you guys, thanks
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:07 AM   #222
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whats the best plug to use in the stock gt2rs motor , cold,med, hot. what works best for you guys, thanks
What fuel are you running?
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:22 AM   #223
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What fuel are you running?
25% VP, been fouling plugs latley to lean maybe?
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:38 AM   #224
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Originally Posted by SteveP View Post
The screw sizes to attach the ring gear to the diff housing are 3x12mm. 3x10mm machine screws are typically used to hold the ring gear because they're threaded all the way to the end, where the original self tapping screws easily give up a couple mm just in the tapered "self-tapping" tip of the screw. I would suggest the Kyosho 1-S33010H or you can go with 15mm screws, but you'll have arm pump when you get finished installing them. Kyosho has 12mm machine screws in steel and titanium, but they're Phillips head screws. I don't recommend using titanium screws. I don't think they're strong enough for this application.
Steve,

I haven't had the same problem as everyone else as far as the self-tapping diff screws back out. However, I try to make sure that I don't over-fill the diff with oil while I am building it. I also do one more thing that many others don't do: I use automotive gasket sealer on my diffs when putting them together. I coat the rim of the diff housing with a good coat of sealant and stick the diff gasket on it. Then I coat the topside of the gasket with sealant as well. This also means that some sealant goes into the screw holes while doing this. Once I put the screws in, I wipe the excess sealant that comes out of the screw holes, let the diff set 24 hrs with the screw side up (to let the sealant cure). No diff oil leaks or screws backing out thus far for me.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:39 AM   #225
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Originally Posted by sewerdog View Post
25% VP, been fouling plugs latley to lean maybe?
Is your plug a lite gray color or dark color when you pull it? If it is lite gray/grayish in color, you are probably too lean. If it is dark/oily looking, you are probably too rich.
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