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Old 06-26-2012, 11:50 AM   #136
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need some advise i have a gt2 & runnin a .28 motor and stock 2-shoe 2speed... what gear to use for tight track?
I suggest that you change to the vs058 clutch bell. This will allow you to use Evolva gears on the clutch bell. These are available in 15, 16, 17T for low gear and 19, 20, 21 and 22T for high gear.

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Old 06-26-2012, 11:59 AM   #137
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need some advise i have a gt2 & runnin a .28 motor and stock 2-shoe 2speed... what gear to use for tight track?
The KYOIGW008 comes with 15/19 on it. That should be your gearing for 99% of tracks. Depending on your track and which .28 you have you could try 16/20 to tame the bottom end. But my experience was that 15/19 is good about everywhere with almost any engine. 14/18 is good for really high revving .21's or on a super tight track with .21-.25. Then 16/20 is for .23-.32 on a large tracks. But 15/19 should be the go to gearing for any engine and any track.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:29 PM   #138
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thanks for the help folks
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:30 AM   #139
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Hi,

I have had a gt2 (blue chassis) sitting on the shelf for a couple of months and want to get it running. It could actually run right now (I just need to get a reciever for it, no biggie) but I havent had time yet.

So anyway I have a red chassis to install since the original blue is pretty worn out. While tearing it down I noticed that almost all of the shafts/dogbones, cups and bearings are pretty much shot. I am almost certiant that the guy I got it from said he installed a new tranny, but I dont know which one. I am at work for a week and dont have access to the car right now. But I am sure the the drive cups at the tranny are good. The transmission gears look almost new.

But to get it built on the new chassis I dont want to go back together with standard dogbones and want to upgrade as much as I can to CVD shafts. I looked on infernos only and alot of stuff is backorder and all kinds of different part numbers.

So what I want to replace is everything from the wheel inwards except the drive cups on the diffs. They look good, its just the outer axles, one is cracked and the others are shot. The tranny output cups are good but everything between that and the pinion shaft needs replacing. I need to rebuild all four corners and the front and rear mainshafts. Also want to replace as many bearings on the car as possible. Not interested in ceramic unless I can get a cheap set (probably not).

The only good parts in all this are the tranny cups, the diff drive cups on the diff (not the pinion cups) and the hubs and carriers. If I could get that stuff done the car would be in real good shape.

So which CVDs should I use? Part numbers would help alot, but I can search them down if need be. I want as much CVD as possible if that is the way to go. Is there any pitfalls or reason not to do this?

Also, are all the GT2 versions the same and interchangeable as far as length and width are concerned? My car came factory with the light blue austin martin body.

BTW a heavly modded engine will be going in later (Dont know which one though).

Sorry about the long post and thanks.
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:40 AM   #140
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Originally Posted by dragonbat13 View Post
Hi,

I have had a gt2 (blue chassis) sitting on the shelf for a couple of months and want to get it running. It could actually run right now (I just need to get a reciever for it, no biggie) but I havent had time yet.

So anyway I have a red chassis to install since the original blue is pretty worn out. While tearing it down I noticed that almost all of the shafts/dogbones, cups and bearings are pretty much shot. I am almost certiant that the guy I got it from said he installed a new tranny, but I dont know which one. I am at work for a week and dont have access to the car right now. But I am sure the the drive cups at the tranny are good. The transmission gears look almost new.

But to get it built on the new chassis I dont want to go back together with standard dogbones and want to upgrade as much as I can to CVD shafts. I looked on infernos only and alot of stuff is backorder and all kinds of different part numbers.

So what I want to replace is everything from the wheel inwards except the drive cups on the diffs. They look good, its just the outer axles, one is cracked and the others are shot. The tranny output cups are good but everything between that and the pinion shaft needs replacing. I need to rebuild all four corners and the front and rear mainshafts. Also want to replace as many bearings on the car as possible. Not interested in ceramic unless I can get a cheap set (probably not).

The only good parts in all this are the tranny cups, the diff drive cups on the diff (not the pinion cups) and the hubs and carriers. If I could get that stuff done the car would be in real good shape.

So which CVDs should I use? Part numbers would help alot, but I can search them down if need be. I want as much CVD as possible if that is the way to go. Is there any pitfalls or reason not to do this?

Also, are all the GT2 versions the same and interchangeable as far as length and width are concerned? My car came factory with the light blue austin martin body.

BTW a heavly modded engine will be going in later (Dont know which one though).

Sorry about the long post and thanks.
All the GT2 stuff is interchangeable. The only difference with GT1 vs GT2 is length, everything else is pretty much interchangeable.

Center CVD's
Front Light Weight KYOIFW335
Front KYOIFW161
Rear KYOIFW160

Front & Rear Swing Shaft CVD
KYOIFW334

Then you're pinion diff cups are KYOIF218.

Honestly, I don't see a benefit for ceramic bearings other than for the clutch bell bearings. But the Protek bearings from amainhobbies have proven to be cheap and reliable.

Then with engine choice...um You can make yourself sick looking at all the engine options. So can't really help much there. Depends on your budget and what you want out of the engine.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:46 PM   #141
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Man I sure am glad somebody put down all the part numbers for the shafts, I got to looking at all the different ones and its confusing to say the least. Some discontinued, some lightweight, blah blah.

I am not a big fan of ceramic myself. I think they are only good for that last speck of performance, although I could be wrong. But they are just too expensive for this car.

I have no Idea what I am going to do about an engine yet. But I do want to make sure the car can handle it before I install a modded engine.

Thanks a million for all the info. Now I can order all the stuff I need.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:55 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by dragonbat13 View Post
Man I sure am glad somebody put down all the part numbers for the shafts, I got to looking at all the different ones and its confusing to say the least. Some discontinued, some lightweight, blah blah.

I am not a big fan of ceramic myself. I think they are only good for that last speck of performance, although I could be wrong. But they are just too expensive for this car.

I have no Idea what I am going to do about an engine yet. But I do want to make sure the car can handle it before I install a modded engine.

Thanks a million for all the info. Now I can order all the stuff I need.
Yeah man, no worries!

I have used the ceramics, but now I just get them for my clutch bell bearings to handle the heat better. But even then, I usually just buy regular ball bearings and maintain them.

Any other questions don't be afraid to ask!
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:23 AM   #143
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Kyosho GT for sale. Check my add. Can be brought to Floyd on Sunday!
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:15 PM   #144
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So I ordered the Protek bearings, I have used them on my savage xl and like them. Also ordered some diff shims to go ahead and make sure they are right. But I didnt order the center front and rear cvd. Instead I ordered the upgraded two shoe trans. I found out that the last owner had only replaced the second gear on the clutch bell. So I am going to go with regular dogbones in the center and the lightweight cvds on all four corners. As I went through this thread I noticed some chassis swaps. However most of the ones mentioned are out of stock or discontinued. I notice that alot of kyosho parts are like that. What is the latest ideal chassis to run?
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:41 PM   #145
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So I ordered the Protek bearings, I have used them on my savage xl and like them. Also ordered some diff shims to go ahead and make sure they are right. But I didnt order the center front and rear cvd. Instead I ordered the upgraded two shoe trans. I found out that the last owner had only replaced the second gear on the clutch bell. So I am going to go with regular dogbones in the center and the lightweight cvds on all four corners. As I went through this thread I noticed some chassis swaps. However most of the ones mentioned are out of stock or discontinued. I notice that alot of kyosho parts are like that. What is the latest ideal chassis to run?
It's because Kyosho is always updating their part numbers, suppose that's a good thing

I haven't seen the Race Spec chassis in action so I can't really steer ya anywhere with it.

The ST-R chassis is way stout, KYOIFW155. If memory serves me correctly it bolts right up with your stock stuff.

The real good 'chit is the Route 246 SP chassis kit. It's hard anodized 7075, updates the steering to 777 setup. So that means bell cranks that ride on bearings not bushings. To top it all off it has 'Team Kyosho' milled on the bottom, pretty bad ass. I'm running this chassis and it is saweet!

If you want short chassis the 777 chassis is invincible, or you can get the 7.5 Kanai SP chassis. Either way you can't go wrong. But both of them require you to dremel the center diff hole larger to accommodate the 2 speed.
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:25 AM   #146
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Well I decided that there was no sense in building up the car just to tear it down and put it on another chassis so I ordered a Route 246. That should be enough stuff to get started. So far:

Chassis
CVD all four corners
2 shoe transmission

Later I plan on putting a modded engine in it. I am not concerned with fuel consumption but max power. I had talked with ERCM and got to thinking about letting them mod a P9R .21 to put in it, along with one of their endbleeds. Dont know if thats gonna happen though.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:51 AM   #147
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Boy I didnt know if that last post was gonna make it or not. My generator was going down (Im offshore on a oil production platform) so I hurried and hit post before it crashed!

Anyway the engine would be a modded picco p9r. I want a high rpm motor for this car, not a torque monster. But I will have to wait on that.

My future plans for the drive train are to add CVds in the center, go to a three shoe clutch, and install the straight cut gears in the diffs. Is there a better differential housing/ bulkhead to use instead of the stock one? If I install these things is there any thing else to worry about as far as durability in the drive train?

Also whats the word on the Max Velocity carbon fiber parts? I am interested in all of their stuff, but mainly the shock towers.

Shocks I havent really decided on, but would prefer aluminum ones. What are my options on that?

And last TIRES, I gotta get new ones. The ones that came with the roller are good enough to get the car rolling, but the glue job sucks bigtime and one of them is mounted the wrong way. I have the stock wheels, and could unglue and replace the tires, or better yet go with complete new rolling stock. I live in south louisiana so its mostly hot with temps around 70-100 degrees most of the year, and my main place to run is at a huge asphalt parking lot with a bunch of uneven spots, dirt and pea gravel built up in the low spots where water washes it. It a great place for a savage and would be fine for this car if set up right.

This car is probably gonna make it to the track maybe once a year, and thats if there is a track in houston. So mostly just fooling around in open parking lots.

Probably gonna be some speed attempts also.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:18 AM   #148
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I live in Houston and run mine in parking lots but will be taking it to the track today. I have the Race Spec and this what I've done to it so far.

RC Screwz stainless screw kit
Kyosho TRW105 shocks
Kyosho heavy duty torque rods (blue aluminum)
F&R Sway Bars
Savox servos
Life battery pack instead of 4 AA's
K Factory hardend hinge pins
Shock retainer pins
Kyosho blue aluminum radio posts
Kyosho IFW122 SP brake disc
Kyosho IFW330 Bonded brake pads
CVD's on all four corners
CVD for front
Removed grease from diffs and filled with diff fluid (120,000 front, and 30,000 rear)
Ipanema slicks (tires are a little wider in the rear)
Sweep slicks
Sweep treaded tires
Ipanema front foam bumper
Ipanema Warrior body (2 of them)

I also ordered the following from Winners Circle RC and it shuld be delivered today.

LRP .28 engine spec 3
removed pullstart from motor and set it up for bump box
OFNA JP-2 pipe
Kyosho 3 shoe clutch
Kyifw53 1.00 clutch springs
KYVS058 clutch bell
16 pinon 2005 elvolva
19 pinon 2005 elvolva
20 pinon 2005 elvolva
kyifw110 flywheel
CVD for rear

I also ordered a Ko Propo EX-10 Eurus radio last night and am currently running a Spektrum DX3S.
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:48 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonbat13 View Post
Boy I didnt know if that last post was gonna make it or not. My generator was going down (Im offshore on a oil production platform) so I hurried and hit post before it crashed!

Anyway the engine would be a modded picco p9r. I want a high rpm motor for this car, not a torque monster. But I will have to wait on that.

My future plans for the drive train are to add CVds in the center, go to a three shoe clutch, and install the straight cut gears in the diffs. Is there a better differential housing/ bulkhead to use instead of the stock one? If I install these things is there any thing else to worry about as far as durability in the drive train?

Also whats the word on the Max Velocity carbon fiber parts? I am interested in all of their stuff, but mainly the shock towers.

Shocks I havent really decided on, but would prefer aluminum ones. What are my options on that?

And last TIRES, I gotta get new ones. The ones that came with the roller are good enough to get the car rolling, but the glue job sucks bigtime and one of them is mounted the wrong way. I have the stock wheels, and could unglue and replace the tires, or better yet go with complete new rolling stock. I live in south louisiana so its mostly hot with temps around 70-100 degrees most of the year, and my main place to run is at a huge asphalt parking lot with a bunch of uneven spots, dirt and pea gravel built up in the low spots where water washes it. It a great place for a savage and would be fine for this car if set up right.

This car is probably gonna make it to the track maybe once a year, and thats if there is a track in houston. So mostly just fooling around in open parking lots.

Probably gonna be some speed attempts also.

Thanks for all the help.
Robin will good take care of you. The P9R is a beast, especially modded! I would recommend on getting the buggy bleed pipe, not the end bleed. Just make sure to clutch that P9R with 1.1mm springs and aluminum shoes. It'll be an animal, from bottom to top.

You can get the hard plastic bulkhead, KYOIF112D. The diff housing's are plenty strong. But just the CVD and straight cuts you'll have a bullet proof drivetrain. I actually use HPI Savage diff bevel gears for a tad more strength because they're a much better quality aluminum over the Kyosho ones.

The Max Velocity carbon fiber shock towers are very, very nice. Takes away the flex from the stock shock towers. That's probably all I would get. Anything else is just bling.

There is the KYOTRW105 shocks. Badass shocks, but the $100 price tag for all 4 is painful. I have been running the stock plastic shocks with no complaints.

I would say throw those stock wheels as far as you can. There's so many better options out there. Look into Sweep Racing, Alpha Tires, GRP Tires, and Ipanemas. I like the Sweep 55 EXP. Great traction, long life, invincible wheels. I really liked the Alpha's as well.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:12 PM   #150
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When you say bevel gears from the savage, do you mean the internal spider gears? Reason I ask is because thats the only thing made out of aluminum in the savage diff. Well that and the diff cup. If you do mean the spiders, are they a drop in or do the pins take some modifications? On the savage, the hot mod is a vorza diff with steel hot bodies spider gears. The spider gears are the same as the savage ones. I bet those would be the best bet for my car if they are a drop in. They are much stronger and much better machined than the stock savage ones. Both sets I am talking about are four gear sets.

Every where I look for the Imp. tires, all they have is slicks. Is there really anybody using the treaded tires? I like the looks of the tread better, but will run slicks if the performance is better. I am just going by the ads that say the tread is better for dirty parking lots, which my main parking lot is a prime example.
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