Serpent Cobra GT
#526
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
LRP SERPENT GT ARM BRACES V1
Ok guys these are pics of the LRP SERPENT GT ARM BRACES V1
I took these photos with my phone not professional grade.
But this shows what you get in the kit.
Kit includes:
2 Front 2 Rear Braces
These arm braces are made of G10. Just as strong and as light as carbon fiber.
Hardware (14) M3x12mm screws to mount to your original arm.
LRP and GT8SPORTS.COM stickers
All in a reusable plastic bag.
To install you will only need a 3 /32 drill bit to make pilot holes for mounting hardware. They are bolted under your existing arms, they can be installed while car is built. Just remove the wheels so you have room to hold brace flush and true to your existing arm, while you drill pilot hole.
*Tip* Hold arm flush and true to an edge on your original arm make first pilot hole and put mounting screw in it. This will hold brace in place and give you some adjustability to make sure your are straight, then continue one hole at a time drill and insert screw one at a time.
I will have better pics and instruction video on site GT8SPORTS.COM
The price for a complete set/kit is $60 Shipped to Lower 48 States
I will do over sea shipping and International but additional cost will be applied.
At this time I can only accept payment via PayPal to:
[email protected]
Please contact me before sending payment, I only have a few sets left from first batch. More are being produced and take usually a week to have in stock.
I appreciate everyone's patience and interest, we will continue to bring you race quality upgrades and products.
Thanks
Tony Luna-Tic
I took these photos with my phone not professional grade.
But this shows what you get in the kit.
Kit includes:
2 Front 2 Rear Braces
These arm braces are made of G10. Just as strong and as light as carbon fiber.
Hardware (14) M3x12mm screws to mount to your original arm.
LRP and GT8SPORTS.COM stickers
All in a reusable plastic bag.
To install you will only need a 3 /32 drill bit to make pilot holes for mounting hardware. They are bolted under your existing arms, they can be installed while car is built. Just remove the wheels so you have room to hold brace flush and true to your existing arm, while you drill pilot hole.
*Tip* Hold arm flush and true to an edge on your original arm make first pilot hole and put mounting screw in it. This will hold brace in place and give you some adjustability to make sure your are straight, then continue one hole at a time drill and insert screw one at a time.
I will have better pics and instruction video on site GT8SPORTS.COM
The price for a complete set/kit is $60 Shipped to Lower 48 States
I will do over sea shipping and International but additional cost will be applied.
At this time I can only accept payment via PayPal to:
[email protected]
Please contact me before sending payment, I only have a few sets left from first batch. More are being produced and take usually a week to have in stock.
I appreciate everyone's patience and interest, we will continue to bring you race quality upgrades and products.
Thanks
Tony Luna-Tic
#527
Tech Regular
Cobra GT wins again!
Phil Trotta takes the Tri State Challenge
Congrats
Phil Trotta takes the Tri State Challenge
Congrats
#532
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
Hey bud I am not Sponsored or represent this company in any way, this is my opinion from actual race testing and experience.
RADIO POST!
The GREEN ones are by far the BEST servos I have ever owned.
I have been running the original same (2) in my GT8 cars for past 2yrs with no issues what so ever.
I run one for steering and one for throttle/brake. These bad boys are nice you can run Lipos on them with no problems and the torque and speed is more then enough for any pro level racing.
Attached pic shows them in my Cobra GT8
#534
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Hey bud I am not Sponsored or represent this company in any way, this is my opinion from actual race testing and experience.
RADIO POST!
The GREEN ones are by far the BEST servos I have ever owned.
I have been running the original same (2) in my GT8 cars for past 2yrs with no issues what so ever.
I run one for steering and one for throttle/brake. These bad boys are nice you can run Lipos on them with no problems and the torque and speed is more then enough for any pro level racing.
Attached pic shows them in my Cobra GT8
RADIO POST!
The GREEN ones are by far the BEST servos I have ever owned.
I have been running the original same (2) in my GT8 cars for past 2yrs with no issues what so ever.
I run one for steering and one for throttle/brake. These bad boys are nice you can run Lipos on them with no problems and the torque and speed is more then enough for any pro level racing.
Attached pic shows them in my Cobra GT8
Jacko
#535
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Jacko,
I also was running the Savox 1258 for my brake/throttle and steering and was having those same issues (steering servo seemed to dump on me). First I thought is was the servo so I switched it out but then it dumped again so I bought a new hump pack and put the servo back and sure enough it did it several more times. Not sure if this is true or not but I've been told the Savox servos draw a bit too much and are hard on the battery packs. After going though a 2700 AA hump pack and a 1600 hump pack (both ended up with a couple of bad cells and kept dumping on me, I'm assuming from running the Savox servos) I have switched out the steering servo to a KO and put in a new 2700 Mah LiPo with a voltage regulator and have had absolutely zero issues. Ran all day last Saturday at a local club race, took 1st on all 3 qualifiers and 1st in the A-main by more than a lap and all on a single charge. That also included 3+ practice runs between qualifying rounds. Maybe some others will shed some light on the Savox servos for us. For now I'm sticking with my KO and Futaba servos.
Regards,
D
#536
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
Your specs for 1258TG are all rated to 6.0volts, that tells me it might not be Lipo friendly which is 7.4volts up to 8.4volt. Speed @ 6.0v is 0.08/60* Torque @ 6.0v is 166oz
Gears are titanium and runs a 12bit resolution.
The resolution is the processing speed of board in servo, the higher the better. Think of it as RAM in your home computer.
The Radio Post guys did things a bit different then most or any I know of yet. First they are the only ones in rc using robot technology actuators and 32bit resolution boards. The actuators are based off industrial grade robots like the ones in manufacturing plants. These are designed for continues and regular use.
All Radio Post servos are rated at 6.0v and 7.4v with normal operating 4.8-8.4v and are Lipo friendly. Speed @6.0v is 0.08 @7.4v is 0.07 ==Torque @6.0v is 249oz @7.4v is 305oz
They both use 25t spines so you can use the same servo horns.
Both have aluminum cases for heat.
Radio Post does also have aluminum ears/tabs that are screwed on to case not built as one together, so they can be replaced need be.
Overall your 1258TG just seems a bit under rated for your GT8 racing.Can tell you I stop carrying extra servos after buying my RadioPost. When anyone ask I always recommend what I have tried and tested.
#538
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
So what's the specific Radio Post item I need please ??
Thanks Toni and Andy..........
Jacko
#539
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
See my issue below please, im running Savox 2271SG servos. Same combo Mike Lyday uses.
So im running this radio And im having a problem, and its not the radio.
In a nitro GT car, im using two Savox High voltage servos. First I ran a hump raciever pack. Full charge would show low voltage on the radio telemetory. Pull the battery and its fully charged.
Then I got a Trakpower lipo now it will go about 15 minutes, before it shows low voltage, pull the battery takes 800MAH its a 2700.
And when it shows low voltage if u just wait a sec it will go back to oh 7.88 then u start driving again and a minute later shows low and stops fail safe.
So the lipo was a big improvment. But no where near right.
These servos must draw so much, it robs from the receiver and thinks its low right?
So the last resort would be a glitch buster?
If I did it again I wouldnt get HV servos no need for them really.
Thanks
So im running this radio And im having a problem, and its not the radio.
In a nitro GT car, im using two Savox High voltage servos. First I ran a hump raciever pack. Full charge would show low voltage on the radio telemetory. Pull the battery and its fully charged.
Then I got a Trakpower lipo now it will go about 15 minutes, before it shows low voltage, pull the battery takes 800MAH its a 2700.
And when it shows low voltage if u just wait a sec it will go back to oh 7.88 then u start driving again and a minute later shows low and stops fail safe.
So the lipo was a big improvment. But no where near right.
These servos must draw so much, it robs from the receiver and thinks its low right?
So the last resort would be a glitch buster?
If I did it again I wouldnt get HV servos no need for them really.
Thanks
#540
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
See my issue below please, im running Savox 2271SG servos. Same combo Mike Lyday uses.
So im running this radio And im having a problem, and its not the radio.
In a nitro GT car, im using two Savox High voltage servos. First I ran a hump raciever pack. Full charge would show low voltage on the radio telemetory. Pull the battery and its fully charged.
Then I got a Trakpower lipo now it will go about 15 minutes, before it shows low voltage, pull the battery takes 800MAH its a 2700.
And when it shows low voltage if u just wait a sec it will go back to oh 7.88 then u start driving again and a minute later shows low and stops fail safe.to
So the lipo was a big improvment. But no where near right.
These servos must draw so much, it robs from the receiver and thinks its low right?
So the last resort would be a glitch buster?
If I did it again I wouldnt get HV servos no need for them really.
Thanks
So im running this radio And im having a problem, and its not the radio.
In a nitro GT car, im using two Savox High voltage servos. First I ran a hump raciever pack. Full charge would show low voltage on the radio telemetory. Pull the battery and its fully charged.
Then I got a Trakpower lipo now it will go about 15 minutes, before it shows low voltage, pull the battery takes 800MAH its a 2700.
And when it shows low voltage if u just wait a sec it will go back to oh 7.88 then u start driving again and a minute later shows low and stops fail safe.to
So the lipo was a big improvment. But no where near right.
These servos must draw so much, it robs from the receiver and thinks its low right?
So the last resort would be a glitch buster?
If I did it again I wouldnt get HV servos no need for them really.
Thanks
Servos any servo will only draw big power if there is something binding. Check your steering and linkages. Your steering should be very smooth and easy to turn side to side, check linkages make sure they dont get hung up.
I would also try a different RX, and are you using a regulator? If your Rx can handle up to 8.4v and your servos are HV you should NOT be using a regulator. Regulator only needed if Radio RX only can be used up to 6.0v.then it is pointless to use HV servos cause your bringing down volts before it gets to servo.