Serpent Cobra GT
#1546
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
pretty good right up of the TZGP..
Even has a picture of the legendary Spooky
http://2wdmod.com/2015/07/21/weekend...ezone-gp-2015/
Even has a picture of the legendary Spooky
http://2wdmod.com/2015/07/21/weekend...ezone-gp-2015/
#1547
#1548
Tech Apprentice
Where can I get replacement pull start for stock engine
#1549
#1551
Tech Apprentice
Trying to stay away from doing start box. I just got back into nitro, I mainly run 1/5 and my serpent will be my only nitro. When I did run nitro I had 2 start boxes ofna and I sold everything when I got out only kept my ignitor and tools I would feel like a fool to by back all that stuff again. Right now my serpent is just a roller but I'm looking at the roto start novarossi 28-7 and I'm looking to switch it to pull start hoping it shares same pull start as stock motor. I use to own to hot mod novarossi 528 8 port before I got out of nitro so I would like to get another.
#1552
Trying to stay away from doing start box. I just got back into nitro, I mainly run 1/5 and my serpent will be my only nitro. When I did run nitro I had 2 start boxes ofna and I sold everything when I got out only kept my ignitor and tools I would feel like a fool to by back all that stuff again. Right now my serpent is just a roller but I'm looking at the roto start novarossi 28-7 and I'm looking to switch it to pull start hoping it shares same pull start as stock motor. I use to own to hot mod novarossi 528 8 port before I got out of nitro so I would like to get another.
#1553
Tech Apprentice
I know not much to choose from when it comes to pull start when dealing with O.S, Rb and Novarossi. If I do I always had good luck with the ofna aluminum top starter box. I also like the novarossi roma and o.s
.21xz
.21xz
#1554
At the moment I think the best bang for buck in the GT world is the Picco EMX-GT engine IMHO. Again not pull start unfortunately. Personally I think the roma wouldn't have the top end for the GT when compared to the Picco.
#1555
Tech Rookie
C-Hub + Steering block
Hi again Serpent,
I need some help again. I installed 600611 (steering block) and 600694 (C-Hub) 1 month ago in the front and I lose the screws regularly while driving. Do you have any tips except loctite?
Thank you. I got 1 image attached
I need some help again. I installed 600611 (steering block) and 600694 (C-Hub) 1 month ago in the front and I lose the screws regularly while driving. Do you have any tips except loctite?
Thank you. I got 1 image attached
#1556
Looks like you are using a button head screw. Also looks like you've damaged the head of the screw by trying to re-tighten over and over again.
Try changing to a cap head screw. You'll get a deeper hole to insert a hex wrench. More torque on the screw means more holding power. Don't overtighten or you'll strip the threads on your new aluminum C hub.
Try changing to a cap head screw. You'll get a deeper hole to insert a hex wrench. More torque on the screw means more holding power. Don't overtighten or you'll strip the threads on your new aluminum C hub.
#1557
Tech Rookie
C hub + steering block
Looks like you are using a button head screw. Also looks like you've damaged the head of the screw by trying to re-tighten over and over again.
Try changing to a cap head screw. You'll get a deeper hole to insert a hex wrench. More torque on the screw means more holding power. Don't overtighten or you'll strip the threads on your new aluminum C hub.
Try changing to a cap head screw. You'll get a deeper hole to insert a hex wrench. More torque on the screw means more holding power. Don't overtighten or you'll strip the threads on your new aluminum C hub.
I don't think that the excess of force you can apply on cap head screws will solve my problem. And I don't like the solution tbh :-) I thought I could solve it with a screw lock but unfortunately the screw has to turn with the steering block =(
#1558
[QUOTE=gurke;14131304]I thought I could solve it with a screw lock but unfortunately the screw has to turn with the steering block =([/QUOTE
The screw is not touching the Steering block. It attaches the sleeve rotating in the plastic bushing inserted in the c-hub.
So blue loctide should not be a problem, as long as you do not poor the full bottle in.
The screw is not touching the Steering block. It attaches the sleeve rotating in the plastic bushing inserted in the c-hub.
So blue loctide should not be a problem, as long as you do not poor the full bottle in.
#1559
Hey All .....
Is anyone looking at going to this race?
Looks like being a good one!
If we get just a few more GT's we'll be able to get two full mains.
Check it out.....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...th-2015-a.html
Regards
BM
Is anyone looking at going to this race?
Looks like being a good one!
If we get just a few more GT's we'll be able to get two full mains.
Check it out.....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...th-2015-a.html
Regards
BM
#1560
GT cars have quite a lot of vibration mainly due to the tyres/wheels being out of balance (especially the sweeps) so you will get screws that join metal to metal parts coming loose. The only way is to use loctite on these. You don't need to use very much just a tiny dab is enough. Too much and it becomes difficult to remove the screw. In my experience on the rattle snake you have no other real option. I would recommend all the steering rack screws as well.