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Old 02-07-2014, 06:26 AM   #1066
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Did any brand make clutch bell with 15/19 can fit our car?
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:57 AM   #1067
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Originally Posted by bestlap View Post
Did any brand make clutch bell with 15/19 can fit our car?

Not that i know of, i am sure you can rig something up but off hand i dont know!


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Paolo sent out my new power plant which should arrive today, so if the weather holds up i should have some feedback really soon. I will have it completely assembled with pics by tomorrow.

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Old 02-07-2014, 11:04 AM   #1068
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Default 15/19 clutch bell

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Did any brand make clutch bell with 15/19 can fit our car?
Is there some reason you can't use the HPI Savage bell with Kyosho 15 and 19 tooth pinions ?? The hold-up is usually just getting enough shims on the crank before the flywheel and maybe having to radius the engine side of the adjacent trans mount for clearance of the bell. You guys use the 'mod 1' gears don't you ?? The early Kyosho GT pinions had no 'spacer' between them but the newer GT2 '2 shoe' trans has a spacer between the pinions for the new gap in the trans gears. 'Stuff and Mod' at your discretion !!

I tried to find a picture of your TeamC bell and thought that 'futile', it's easier to pull teeth !!
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:48 PM   #1069
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The OFNA clutchbell takes 15-19. But that still would give too tall of a ratio with the stock spurs. With stock ring pinion it gives a waaay too short ratio (very high numbers we're talking in the 13s and 14s)... With 14-17 or 14-18 the motor becomes way too close to the centerline.
The best solution is making bigger spurs...
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:40 PM   #1070
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The OFNA clutchbell takes 15-19. But that still would give too tall of a ratio with the stock spurs. With stock ring pinion it gives a waaay too short ratio (very high numbers we're talking in the 13s and 14s)... With 14-17 or 14-18 the motor becomes way too close to the centerline.
The best solution is making bigger spurs...
Thank you for that explanation Joe !! I wasn't aware of the driving force for Marcus's campaign on these new gears and trans top plate.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:22 PM   #1071
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Thank you for that explanation Joe !! I wasn't aware of the driving force for Marcus's campaign on these new gears and trans top plate.
Lol no worries. Marcus and I have both intensively been testing. No harm intended...
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:14 PM   #1072
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Well, its all fitted! in the morning i am going to install the new R/P's. Weather is looking bad for monday so not sure when i will get to the track.

I had to make a new servo plate to move the servo outwards a few mm to keep it from hitting the 1st gear spur. So the tally for parts to convert is:
  1. 3mm transmissioin spacers
  2. transmission cover
  3. servo plate
  4. 3mm servo plate spacers
  5. billet gears
  6. 43/13 ring and pinion





Out of curiosity how many are interested in the kit? For obvious reasons i cant make 1 or 2 at a time and it be affordable. If i can get 10-15 pre-ordered i will make 25 and sit on a few. I have not figured out a price for the custom parts yet, gears will be the same price as before. The only other snag is the rear fuel tank mount touches the small pinion so i notched it and it works fine but no way i can really make anything to fix it. The linkage to the carb actually feels better now, i think the raised servo lines it up better.
I will begin cutting carbon fiber in a few weeks and will offer a carbon fiber trans cover and servo plate!

Another item in testing is a "mini" arm brace. On high grip the full arm braces are the best but when grip is less than optimal no brace works best but then you get the typical arm warp and your ride height gets thrown off. These braces keep the arm straight but allow full flex for increased grip!

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Old 02-07-2014, 08:36 PM   #1073
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Beautiful. I'm in for a conversion set.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:24 AM   #1074
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Hi guys

About the diff case failures, here is what I have done and has worked for me...

1. I removed the one side of the shield of each bearing holding the pinion, and installed the open sides facing each other.
2. Drilled a hole in the diff case targeted in between both bearings and put a set screw to seal it.
3. Before a day on the track, I remove the set screw and spray grease inside to make sure the bearings are well lubricated before a day's run..


So far I haven't had issues anymore...this may work but be sure all tolerances are ok. I make sure the pinion has no play to move forward or backward as the forward-backward movement will create friction between the helical spur gear...cause heat and melt the cases..
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:44 AM   #1075
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Can you post pic. I make sure my bulkhead is packed with grease. Worked so far.
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:34 AM   #1076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpn View Post
Hi guys

About the diff case failures, here is what I have done and has worked for me...

1. I removed the one side of the shield of each bearing holding the pinion, and installed the open sides facing each other.
2. Drilled a hole in the diff case targeted in between both bearings and put a set screw to seal it.
3. Before a day on the track, I remove the set screw and spray grease inside to make sure the bearings are well lubricated before a day's run..


So far I haven't had issues anymore...this may work but be sure all tolerances are ok. I make sure the pinion has no play to move forward or backward as the forward-backward movement will create friction between the helical spur gear...cause heat and melt the cases..
That actually sounds like a good idea. I'm gonna try this. So far with the heat shield I installed it dropped my diff temps from 200* down to 140*. Would really like to see it even lower so gonna give this mod a shot.
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:40 AM   #1077
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Headed to the track for initial testing of the gear conversion. FYI i have only had 2 responses to this conversion kit so its not looking good right now for production.......
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:08 AM   #1078
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i keep watching and reading this thread i like seeing the development but truly why would a person at this point buy one of these when you have to mod the heck out of it to make it work and be able to compete? especially on a car that only has a roar legality for this year? i understand running what you have but if someone was going to buy a new chassis why?
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:07 PM   #1079
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i keep watching and reading this thread i like seeing the development but truly why would a person at this point buy one of these when you have to mod the heck out of it to make it work and be able to compete? especially on a car that only has a roar legality for this year? i understand running what you have but if someone was going to buy a new chassis why?
A few points! You dont have to do ANYTHING to the car at all Tony won two events last year with a box stock long chassis car. I ran the season last year with a car that only had pistons, short towers and Ackerman bar and held my own. What you are seeing now is basically my personal R+D which is what The factory wants me to do, difference is that I post and relay information as i go, this is happening with all cars you just dont always see it! There will be a V2 car sometime this year, the quirks that i am working will be incorporated into the new version.
The ROAR rule is not set in stone and after talking to the powers that be, that rule more than likely will not exist. And on top of that who goes to ROAR events anyway, the biggest GT races throughout the year are Homestead and Joliet and they run open rules. If you ever go to a ROAR nitro race you probably wont do it again it is a royal PITA, not fun at all.
I am a racer first and foremost which means i want to win! We are in a "tenths" game where a simple camber change can put you in the A main or top of the B. So if i think Aunt Jemima syrup in my shocks will give me two tenths best believe i will put it in RC racing is all about the upgrades and putting what you like on your car to make it fit you, some like a stock cars some like every piece of BLING they can put on it and most are in between. Aftermarket parts is what feeds my family so it is in my best interest to find things that make cars faster. Plus , I just like doing it!! No cars are perfect out of the box , remember the factories also sell upgrade parts so kits are not designed to be perfect in the first place.
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:17 PM   #1080
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
A few points! You dont have to do ANYTHING to the car at all Tony won two events last year with a box stock long chassis car. I ran the season last year with a car that only had pistons, short towers and Ackerman bar and held my own. What you are seeing now is basically my personal R+D which is what The factory wants me to do, difference is that I post and relay information as i go, this is happening with all cars you just dont always see it! There will be a V2 car sometime this year, the quirks that i am working will be incorporated into the new version.
The ROAR rule is not set in stone and after talking to the powers that be, that rule more than likely will not exist. And on top of that who goes to ROAR events anyway, the biggest GT races throughout the year are Homestead and Joliet and they run open rules. If you ever go to a ROAR nitro race you probably wont do it again it is a royal PITA, not fun at all.
I am a racer first and foremost which means i want to win! We are in a "tenths" game where a simple camber change can put you in the A main or top of the B. So if i think Aunt Jemima syrup in my shocks will give me two tenths best believe i will put it in RC racing is all about the upgrades and putting what you like on your car to make it fit you, some like a stock cars some like every piece of BLING they can put on it and most are in between. Aftermarket parts is what feeds my family so it is in my best interest to find things that make cars faster. Plus , I just like doing it!! No cars are perfect out of the box , remember the factories also sell upgrade parts so kits are not designed to be perfect in the first place.
LOL SO TRUE
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