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Team C 1/8 GT car

Old 02-05-2014, 03:12 PM
  #1051  
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Which chassis part number guys?

I'm building a new-products parts stock list for HRP now.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:35 PM
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Roy , i believe the part number is TO8871


OK guys, working on the gear ratio situation and have run into a few hurdles. To get in the 11:1/8:1 range the tooth count is 55/50 ish ( i have the exact ratio's figured) so basically the second gear spur is now the same OD as the old first gear and the new first gear is 2.1"!! That is really big, big enough that it will stick out of the bottom of the chassis . So I made some 3mm spacers that go under the transmission mounts but then you run into the throttle servo mount not lining up , there is a single screw that connects the servo plate to the transmission mount, dont really know what that is for but temporarily i will grind it off. If all of this works it looks like you will have to purchase an initial installation kit and in that kit i will include a new carbon servo plate, spacers and whatever else is needed to get it to work. test fitting everything tonight!

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Old 02-05-2014, 04:08 PM
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Marcus, that screw that bolts the stock radio tray to the ctr diff mount does have a purpose. It adds rigidity to the platform, particularly keeping the tray from moving inward while hard braking. Without it you may need to add a tray screw and post to bolt to the floor. Otherwise you will get some tray-flex and lose maximum brake strength, especially during long runs.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:19 PM
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For the plastic spur gear abrasion to the steel pinion, I use a small amount of Ultra Lube 4x Lithium paste/grease. I know, it sounds messy, but you can fling off the excess in just a couple of seconds of on-power rotation, and then clean-up. I can tell it works from the noise reduction of the plastic spur, and my steel pinion on the TS4 now lasts much longer. I only had to apply the lube once. After one run the spur will then look clean but still have a long lasting lube residue.
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyJ
Marcus, that screw that bolts the stock radio tray to the ctr diff mount does have a purpose. It adds rigidity to the platform, particularly keeping the tray from moving inward while hard braking. Without it you may need to add a tray screw and post to bolt to the floor. Otherwise you will get some tray-flex and lose maximum brake strength, especially during long runs.

Hmmmm, will have to figure out something!
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Roy , i believe the part number is TO8871


OK guys, working on the gear ratio situation and have run into a few hurdles. To get in the 11:1/8:1 range the tooth count is 55/50 ish ( i have the exact ratio's figured) so basically the second gear spur is now the same OD as the old first gear and the new first gear is 2.1"!! That is really big, big enough that it will stick out of the bottom of the chassis . So I made some 3mm spacers that go under the transmission mounts but then you run into the throttle servo mount not lining up , there is a single screw that connects the servo plate to the transmission mount, dont really know what that is for but temporarily i will grind it off. If all of this works it looks like you will have to purchase an initial installation kit and in that kit i will include a new carbon servo plate, spacers and whatever else is needed to get it to work. test fitting everything tonight!

Look nice, whats the internal ratio on this car? And what pinions are u using?
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:58 PM
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3.3 with the optional straight cut gears, 4.3 with stock.
16/20 pinions
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:58 PM
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3.3 with the optional straight cut gears, 4.3 with stock.
16/20 pinions
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:29 PM
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Great news Marcus. I'm happy this is finally happening!
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:00 PM
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Well its turning out to be a bit tougher than it originally seems, i have enough clearance for for the chassis but the brake mount plate hits first gear....only way around that is to make a plate for that too! I am already invested in it so i will make it work but not sure if a 100 dollar conversion(without the R/P) is something that is worth producing, its getting pricey. The gears look good though!!
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:03 PM
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ok if it geared to tall can the gtp or dm bell with pinions work better? down to a 14 for 1st you can then come down a few teeth on the spurs
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by RoyJ
Which chassis part number guys?

I'm building a new-products parts stock list for HRP now.
- T08871 short chassis
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:08 AM
  #1063  
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Originally Posted by azeroth
ok if it geared to tall can the gtp or dm bell with pinions work better? down to a 14 for 1st you can then come down a few teeth on the spurs
I think Frenchie did some testing with the DM bell and from what i can tell you have to change bearings alot and stack extra ones inside. Ultimately he didnt like the durability of it. I am already knee deep in this and really the main concern right now is to just get the car on the track and test for gearing and gear case durability. If it all works out I can relay this information to Roy and Stephen at the factory and work on a better option. If it were up to me i would change the ring and pinion ratio to 43/11 straight cut, go with smaller clutchbell pinions which would allow for smaller spur gears.

I thought about it last night and as far as the servo plate goes , i can just space it up the same 3mm as the trans mount which means i only have to fabricate a trans cover, which would be nice out of carbon anyway!
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:58 AM
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Great job Marcus what you are doing is great!

Marcus and I have been going back and forth about gearing and we both have been testing all summer. I tested about 15 extremely different ratio combinations, from very short to very long, all kinds of splits between 1st and 2nd too.
I found a good durability of bearings (i mean at least a main or qual day) with the OFNA Clutchbell, but only if you stack 4 front bearings on top of each other. I used Avid ceramic bearings. With the optional straight cut ring and pinion I had to use 14t clutchbell pinion for first and 17 or 18 for second gear. That wasn't great because it forced me to bring the motor too much towards the centerline and I had to remove the rear brake disk. It was rubbing against the flywheel.
I really think that bigger spurs and/or a taller ring/pinion is the way to go!

Last edited by Joe Kimble; 02-06-2014 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:12 AM
  #1065  
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Looks excellent Marcus. Great work.
I have opted for a slightly different set up gearing wise.... going for 56/52 Spurs with the new 17/21 pinions.
It does mean the spur's are a little larger in diameter then yours (1mm on 1st gear)
With the reduction in rotating mass I'm thinking the car will pull the taller gear. Will have to see.
Clearance wise with the spur's protruding through the chassis I have avoided by running a thicker chassis.
Hopefully it all works. I think I can still get a 57t 1st gear if needed but will see first.
Good luck with your testing Marcus.

Regards
BM

Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Roy , i believe the part number is TO8871


OK guys, working on the gear ratio situation and have run into a few hurdles. To get in the 11:1/8:1 range the tooth count is 55/50 ish ( i have the exact ratio's figured) so basically the second gear spur is now the same OD as the old first gear and the new first gear is 2.1"!! That is really big, big enough that it will stick out of the bottom of the chassis . So I made some 3mm spacers that go under the transmission mounts but then you run into the throttle servo mount not lining up , there is a single screw that connects the servo plate to the transmission mount, dont really know what that is for but temporarily i will grind it off. If all of this works it looks like you will have to purchase an initial installation kit and in that kit i will include a new carbon servo plate, spacers and whatever else is needed to get it to work. test fitting everything tonight!



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