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Old 01-19-2014, 05:07 PM   #991
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Originally Posted by THE FRIDGE View Post
Hi there I fixed that problem of the brake disc touching my flywheel by taking out the disc and sanding a couple of mills off the outside of the disc and didn't have a problem again and something else I found is that I run the standard engine mounts and a fellow team c driver is running the one piece mount and doesn't have that a problem. In testing as well as it touching the flywheel it also rubs the radio tray next to the throttle servo. I was there on the weekend and seen robs broken disc brakes and maybe a thicker disc is needed as looking at the ofna and the serpent disc are much thicker.
Cheers
I considered shaving off 1mm on the disc myself but found I was able to adjust the rear pads and then compensate in the brake lever adjustment. I still may consider shaving the disc down by 1mm. I have the TeamC factory two piece aluminum engine mount so that may be the issue when using a non-standard flywheel/clutch configuration. My disc has about 1/8th inch gap between it and the radio tray so fortunately mine doesn't rub.
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Old 01-19-2014, 05:10 PM   #992
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On another note...the only serious issue I'm having with the car is that I keep blowing up rear diffs because they are getting too hot. The exhaust header is heating up the rear diff to over 200* F and destroying the inner bearing when the housing starts to melt. I have gone through 5 diffs in 2 gallons which is beginning to wear on my nerves. Someone else has tested a heat shield with good results so far so this may be the answer to fixing the problem.
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:02 PM   #993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoketRdr View Post
On another note...the only serious issue I'm having with the car is that I keep blowing up rear diffs because they are getting too hot. The exhaust header is heating up the rear diff to over 200* F and destroying the inner bearing when the housing starts to melt. I have gone through 5 diffs in 2 gallons which is beginning to wear on my nerves. Someone else has tested a heat shield with good results so far so this may be the answer to fixing the problem.
Sorry to hear about your diffs blowing up. One of things I really like with the car is that the transmission is very resistant. I had my car used and once I replaced all the gears and ring/pinion the whole thing lasted me a whole season (just broke a bearing once from hitting really hard) and actually still is in the car.
Could you give us some info in your setup?
Just in case here is a useful tip on the build of diff and ring: inside the diff don't use the 4 small shims. Just use the 2 bigger ones that cover the rubber o ring.
When attaching the CVD to the axle make sure there is a little play between CVD and bulkead. Also, make sure that the backlash shims are in the same side as the big ring (like in manual). Finally, I would not use transparent diff grease. I would use Cooper grease or black graphite grease.
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:49 PM   #994
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Just in case here is a useful tip on the build of diff and ring: inside the diff don't use the 4 small shims. Just use the 2 bigger ones that cover the rubber o ring.
When attaching the CVD to the axle make sure there is a little play between CVD and bulkead. Also, make sure that the backlash shims are in the same side as the big ring (like in manual). Finally, I would not use transparent diff grease. I would use Cooper grease or black graphite grease.
Removing the shims on the spyder gears is an old racers trick from the late 70's. You have to adjust your diff oil weight accordingly.
Adding any play between the drive shaft collar and forward bearing on the diff is a mistake. They use helical cut gears in these diffs and when you add 1-2mm of play it now allows the pinion gear to float. It pulls forward under throttle and pushes aft under braking which allows it to contact the spyder carrier and generate more heat as well as damage the carrier.
Backlash shims are common sense for helical cut gears and that's why there are included.
The diff grease choice wont matter if you're allowing play in the pinion shaft which changes the backlash.

The original TeamC diff cases were so bad that they made a material change to the cases. It still doesn't work because they don't dissipate heat well enough. Marcus and myself have been addressing this issue on an engineering level. Its been determined that the cases are overheating due to the engine and exhaust header heat. A shield was fabricated and tested this weekend which yielded a 90* F difference. More to follow as we continue to address the issue.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:47 PM   #995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoketRdr View Post
Removing the shims on the spyder gears is an old racers trick from the late 70's. You have to adjust your diff oil weight accordingly.
Adding any play between the drive shaft collar and forward bearing on the diff is a mistake. They use helical cut gears in these diffs and when you add 1-2mm of play it now allows the pinion gear to float. It pulls forward under throttle and pushes aft under braking which allows it to contact the spyder carrier and generate more heat as well as damage the carrier.
Backlash shims are common sense for helical cut gears and that's why there are included.
The diff grease choice wont matter if you're allowing play in the pinion shaft which changes the backlash.

The original TeamC diff cases were so bad that they made a material change to the cases. It still doesn't work because they don't dissipate heat well enough. Marcus and myself have been addressing this issue on an engineering level. Its been determined that the cases are overheating due to the engine and exhaust header heat. A shield was fabricated and tested this weekend which yielded a 90* F difference. More to follow as we continue to address the issue.
I was talking about 0.5mm play not more. I heard about the bulkheads melting, I have a friend whom it happened to. Weird enough mine held up the whole summer season. But longest mains I did were 30min mains. I don't know if it would hold an entire hour race.
So you go the temp to go 90 degrees lower than before? Sounds great!
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:35 AM   #996
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Hi Marcus,

The rear carbon shock towers are the same size as the kit alloy ones - TU1802 GT Rear Shock Tower. How much improvement did you receive from the short towers?

Regards Rob
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:41 AM   #997
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Hi Marcus,

How much for the rear short tower only please
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:09 AM   #998
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Looking for a replacement short wheel base chassis part# T08871

Anyone know where I can purchase? Thx.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:17 AM   #999
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We are preparing to get back on a plane so time is short but the shield kept the case under 105 all weekend and i had no failures the latest batch Of cases seem to be quite a bit tighter as i did not need any shims . Of course i changed both if them sat nighy but probably could have kept them. What i may do now is try the optin gear set but also make larger spur gears to compensate .

The towers are only sold in pairs.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:23 AM   #1000
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Originally Posted by Joe Kimble View Post
I was talking about 0.5mm play not more. I heard about the bulkheads melting, I have a friend whom it happened to. Weird enough mine held up the whole summer season. But longest mains I did were 30min mains. I don't know if it would hold an entire hour race.
So you go the temp to go 90 degrees lower than before? Sounds great!
Yeah its a very weird thing because Tony drove his car forever before a diff blew out. I've gone through 5 and Marcus has gone through several as well. I took some measurements and the shaft has 0.5mm play in it. I started with a 1mm gap then a 2mm gap and both gave the same end result. I was blowing a rear diff every 12-15 tanks. A couple of weeks ago Marcus and I were at the track and when I come off he checked my rear diff temp and it was 185*. This past weekend I blew another diff and when I checked the temp it was over 200*. The chassis directly under the diff was at 110*. My R5 generates 250-275* of heat off the cooling head and exhaust. This is when the idea hit him that the exhaust header and engine heat were causing the problem because there's no airflow over the diff. So he fabricated a heat shield and as he stated the rear diff didn't get over 105* this weekend. Think the problem may be solved now.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:44 AM   #1001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoketRdr View Post
Yeah its a very weird thing because Tony drove his car forever before a diff blew out. I've gone through 5 and Marcus has gone through several as well. I took some measurements and the shaft has 0.5mm play in it. I started with a 1mm gap then a 2mm gap and both gave the same end result. I was blowing a rear diff every 12-15 tanks. A couple of weeks ago Marcus and I were at the track and when I come off he checked my rear diff temp and it was 185*. This past weekend I blew another diff and when I checked the temp it was over 200*. The chassis directly under the diff was at 110*. My R5 generates 250-275* of heat off the cooling head and exhaust. This is when the idea hit him that the exhaust header and engine heat were causing the problem because there's no airflow over the diff. So he fabricated a heat shield and as he stated the rear diff didn't get over 105* this weekend. Think the problem may be solved now.
Awesome.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:57 AM   #1002
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Learned alot over the past weekend and i have a really good setup. I am catching up with orders but will post some my finding over the next few days.
Here is a pic of the new TeamC tires:



they are really big in diameter and feel like they will be pretty good, should have some feedback over the weekend

here is a shot of the heat shield i made to keep heat off of the rear gear case:

before the sheild temps were in the 180-200 range because of the header heat , with the shield temps did not get over 110 and i had no case failures this past weekend.

random pix:


I won this race but got Dq'd because i was 23g under weight! i changed engines at the last minute and did not think to recheck. But it was a badazz race i got turned upside down in the first turn at the start and still managed to win the race!





Last edited by MantisWorx; 01-21-2014 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:36 PM   #1003
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Default PanAm Nats setup 2014

FRONT:
  • -3.5 camber
  • 2* toe out
  • 8mm ride height
  • shocks inside arm, middle tower
  • long links middle roll center
  • 500k dif fluid with double shims on everything (wanted it to be tight)
  • 1200CST shock fluid with Dual stage pistons
  • Team C hard springs
  • RCShox Ackerman bar
  • 6mm droop

REAR:
  • 3* camber
  • 2.5 toe in
  • 1.5* anti squat
  • 9.5mm ride height
  • shocks outside on arms middle on tower
  • Links mid on AL hub inside middle on tower
  • 1500 dif fluid (not 15,000)
  • 1300CST shock oil with RCShox dual stage pistons
  • The just released Team C ultra hard springs
  • 6mm droop


44/40 Delrin spurs
Fiberglass brakes
stock chassis braces
56mph was the highest MPH i got over the weekend
Sidewinder fuel 25/9
Alpha tires=I used one set of "Q's" the entire weekend!! in the 1/4 final they got very greasy and i meant to change to ultra but did not.
stock sway bars
I installed the V3 rear pivot blocks which are nice but do not fit the chassis so i had to do alot of grinding, i used the lower roll center setting.
Short shocks all the way around
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:11 PM   #1004
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Thanks for sharing the setup! This is going to be along winter, I am already itching to go outdoors and hear those engines scream...
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:40 PM   #1005
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I am starting think the gear case issue is caused by the heat generated by the helical gears in the R/P. helical gears are very strong but not as efficient as straight cut gears. The optional gears are straight cut but throw the gear ratio's off. So i think that I am going to order the optional gear set and make spur gears to offer a wider range of ratios. should have something in a couple of weeks.
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