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Old 01-16-2014, 05:38 AM   #976
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I tried the [img]url[/img] method but it put those little boxes that link it. How do you just past an image in like yours above? Sorry I'm only pretty new at posting pics and can put a thumbnail attachment etc in but thaught I would try the other method.
That stuff still confuses me! I just use photobucket and use their links!
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:06 PM   #977
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Look for me!
I know you from ur youtube vids my brother !!lol...have a safe flight in...it got very cold in south fl here today and the weekend will be mid 60's : (
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:17 PM   #978
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Good luck in Homestead this weekend Marcus and Tony. Have a great time.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:05 AM   #979
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Thanx for the support Roy!
So far not doin too bad, they seed qualifiers by practice lap times and i am in the top group of 8. So i should get a clean run. Fastest lap so far has been desoto jr with a 19.99! Most in the top group are at 12.3's a few 12.2s and i am at 12.4. Track conditions are pretty good bjt weather is all over the place so everyone is chasing tune by the hour. I feel like i can get in the 12.2 range, still behind the ball a little bit. Car has some mid corner push that is eating the clock so this morning i am going to play with springs and roll centers. I installed the v3 rear blocks so my rear toe is at 2.5 with anti squat at 1.5 from 3, not sure if i like the 1.5 or not.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:12 AM   #980
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Also, there is a speed trap on the straight, tony and i both are in the 55-56 range. Most are runnin 54 and i think one guy ran 57. Im am running 45/41 and tony is running 45/40. To be honest the trap isnt set at the end of the straight and im pulling past the trap!
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:46 AM   #981
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Default Brake disk problems

Hi guys,
Attached is a pick of my brake disks that failed yesterday. It was a little scary when I went for the anchors and the 3.5 kg car didn't stop and crashed Into the steel barrier. Lucky only cosmetic damage to body shell and the foam bumper absorbed the impact. These brakes are option parts and have only done approx 20mins use before failing. There are 2 issues I have noticed with these option disks: 1st is that they are really thin at several points around the disk causing a weak spot. And it also needs to be a smaller disk for the rear as it rubs the engine flywheel. I think team C need to manufacture a metal disk set for the GT that has smaller thicker disks. Anybody else had this problem? I installed the standard fiber disks and pads and they worked fine for the rest of the day. I noticed a little fade but trimmed it out during the final.
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Team C 1/8 GT car-image.jpg  
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:01 AM   #982
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Default GT clutch

Hi guys, has anybody had issues with the stock clutch? My clutch is engaging even at idle. Has anybody tried the Buku clutch? Or drilling the aluminium shoes or harder spings etc. Any advice appreciated
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:07 AM   #983
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Originally Posted by Roberto168 View Post
Hi guys, has anybody had issues with the stock clutch? My clutch is engaging even at idle. Has anybody tried the Buku clutch? Or drilling the aluminium shoes or harder spings etc. Any advice appreciated
Maybe the problem is the crazy 9 port on-road engines you have hanging off that clutch. Just kidding Roberto. Might just be a bad clutch? Like the brakes.
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:31 AM   #984
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Hi guys,
Attached is a pick of my brake disks that failed yesterday. It was a little scary when I went for the anchors and the 3.5 kg car didn't stop and crashed Into the steel barrier. Lucky only cosmetic damage to body shell and the foam bumper absorbed the impact. These brakes are option parts and have only done approx 20mins use before failing. There are 2 issues I have noticed with these option disks: 1st is that they are really thin at several points around the disk causing a weak spot. And it also needs to be a smaller disk for the rear as it rubs the engine flywheel. I think team C need to manufacture a metal disk set for the GT that has smaller thicker disks. Anybody else had this problem? I installed the standard fiber disks and pads and they worked fine for the rest of the day. I noticed a little fade but trimmed it out during the final.
Those optjon brakes are really designed for off road, if you want metal brakes use the ofna. Disc with team c pads . The team drivers including me use stock brakes, the fade comes from the plastic trans mount, get the option al mount and use stock brakes.

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Originally Posted by Roberto168 View Post
Hi guys, has anybody had issues with the stock clutch? My clutch is engaging even at idle. Has anybody tried the Buku clutch? Or drilling the aluminium shoes or harder spings etc. Any advice appreciated
If your clutch is engaging at idle you have to have a broken spring. With the stock clutch stagger the springs, using. .9/1.0/1.1.
I use the buku clutch with std weight kevlar shoes, hands down best clutch you can use ! Make sure you use a brand new clutchbell, cannot use a contaminated bell it will destroy the shoes.
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:48 AM   #985
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Thanks marcus. I appreciate your reply. Also What size Buku fits the team c clutch bell.
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Old 01-19-2014, 05:45 AM   #986
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Thanks marcus. I appreciate your reply. Also What size Buku fits the team c clutch bell.
Std buggy size fits.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:35 AM   #987
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Thanks marcus. I appreciate your reply. Also What size Buku fits the team c clutch bell.
When you go to the Buku site click on the link that says "Speed tune clutch kits for 1/8th on-road GT class". The very first clutch that is shown is the one you want with standard weight shoes. Part # #2000ABK-34-GT. If you're running an on-road engine then get the unit with the light weight shoes. And like Marcus said on the brakes, use the stock units with the aluminum trans mounts. They are more than adequate in stopping power and using the aluminum mount will keep them consistent. I have my anti-lock brakes set up in my radio with this set-up and it works great. No brake fade.

On a side note about the brake shoe and flywheel. I added the Buku crank case cap to my engine and also ran into the problem of the rear brake shoe hitting the flywheel when I applied the brakes. It was killing my engine every time I braked and couldn't figure it out until I saw the wear marks on the brake shoe. Tighten down the pads for minimal clearance and travel then adjust your radio/servo accordingly.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:56 AM   #988
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Originally Posted by Roberto168 View Post
Hi guys,
Attached is a pick of my brake disks that failed yesterday. It was a little scary when I went for the anchors and the 3.5 kg car didn't stop and crashed Into the steel barrier. Lucky only cosmetic damage to body shell and the foam bumper absorbed the impact. These brakes are option parts and have only done approx 20mins use before failing. There are 2 issues I have noticed with these option disks: 1st is that they are really thin at several points around the disk causing a weak spot. And it also needs to be a smaller disk for the rear as it rubs the engine flywheel. I think team C need to manufacture a metal disk set for the GT that has smaller thicker disks. Anybody else had this problem? I installed the standard fiber disks and pads and they worked fine for the rest of the day. I noticed a little fade but trimmed it out during the final.
Hi! The thing to do is to get the aluminum trans mounts and use the stock brake pads.

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Hi guys, has anybody had issues with the stock clutch? My clutch is engaging even at idle. Has anybody tried the Buku clutch? Or drilling the aluminium shoes or harder spings etc. Any advice appreciated
It could be a dead bearing, but only way to know is to take it apart. The buku is great.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:58 AM   #989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Those optjon brakes are really designed for off road, if you want metal brakes use the ofna. Disc with team c pads . The team drivers including me use stock brakes, the fade comes from the plastic trans mount, get the option al mount and use stock brakes.



If your clutch is engaging at idle you have to have a broken spring. With the stock clutch stagger the springs, using. .9/1.0/1.1.
I use the buku clutch with std weight kevlar shoes, hands down best clutch you can use ! Make sure you use a brand new clutchbell, cannot use a contaminated bell it will destroy the shoes.
Haha Marcus I hadn't seen your reply! Just waking up. I hope you are doing good in Florida.
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:06 PM   #990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoketRdr View Post
When you go to the Buku site click on the link that says "Speed tune clutch kits for 1/8th on-road GT class". The very first clutch that is shown is the one you want with standard weight shoes. Part # #2000ABK-34-GT. If you're running an on-road engine then get the unit with the light weight shoes. And like Marcus said on the brakes, use the stock units with the aluminum trans mounts. They are more than adequate in stopping power and using the aluminum mount will keep them consistent. I have my anti-lock brakes set up in my radio with this set-up and it works great. No brake fade.

On a side note about the brake shoe and flywheel. I added the Buku crank case cap to my engine and also ran into the problem of the rear brake shoe hitting the flywheel when I applied the brakes. It was killing my engine every time I braked and couldn't figure it out until I saw the wear marks on the brake shoe. Tighten down the pads for minimal clearance and travel then adjust your radio/servo accordingly.
Hi there I fixed that problem of the brake disc touching my flywheel by taking out the disc and sanding a couple of mills off the outside of the disc and didn't have a problem again and something else I found is that I run the standard engine mounts and a fellow team c driver is running the one piece mount and doesn't have that a problem. In testing as well as it touching the flywheel it also rubs the radio tray next to the throttle servo. I was there on the weekend and seen robs broken disc brakes and maybe a thicker disc is needed as looking at the ofna and the serpent disc are much thicker.
Cheers
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