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Old 11-20-2013, 05:43 AM   #856
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Hi Marcus

It's great to see all the help & support like Roberto mentioned that this thread has done for GT racers, thanks to your incredible knowledge & time for people.

We decided to use foam tires manly because in Australia we can race all year, even through winter. The foam still gives us great grip in very cold conditions & our tracks here are not surface treated.

Also the club that has been the initiator of getting this class up & running & need to be congratulated (Penrith District Nitro Racing) This club racers at night with temperatures down to zero degrees Celsius.

They thought using foam actually keeps the cost down as no need for tire warmers etc. You would be surprised how well the foam lasts. We don't true them or anything, use them straight out of the box & just rotate them for wear.

The Team C car has started to appear at our track here now Marcus & we all can't wait to do some great racing together.

Cheers Daz

Thank you and you are very welcome!! post like this make it worth all of the drama i go through at times


I have been doing some testing for REDS over the last month or so and we finally have a solution to keeping the engines in their sweet spot! I received an R5 IGT8F spec engine last week (300.00 with header and pipe). did my bench break in adn final track break in yesterday. Only change i did to it was install the REDS XXS double bend header for what i though was going to tame down the bottom and open up the top...... well to my surprise it transformed the engine into a BEAST! I am now going to campaign that engine in my pro car, it is simply the best bang for the buck engine for the short geared Team C car. I know this is going to sound dumb but it literally pulled the front tires off the ground shifting into second gear multiple times!! Maybe there was a bump on the track at that exact point but either way the engine is insanely fast now! it has a 7mm venturi and i was getting 12min of runtime! AT any rate I was testing a larger head combo for the GT cars. Since we run an enclosed body temps are anywhere from 50-90 hotter with the body on (depending on ambient temps) REDS engines like to be around 220 with an exposed head so with a body on you can see where this is headed! So I machined a head extender which allows for more heat dissipation and raises the head higher to get in the airflow. This extension dropped temps 60+*,so problem solved! The factory is now producing US prototype bigger heads and once I finalize the right one two GT spec engines will be released to the public, one will be ROAR legal with 6mm venturi and the other will be a "pro" model based off of the M7T with a GT head and a few GT tweaks! Its going to be hard to beat this R5 spec engine!

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Old 11-20-2013, 08:19 PM   #857
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Thank you and you are very welcome!! post like this make it worth all of the drama i go through at times


I have been doing some testing for REDS over the last month or so and we finally have a solution to keeping the engines in their sweet spot! I received an R5 IGT8F spec engine last week (300.00 with header and pipe). did my bench break in adn final track break in yesterday. Only change i did to it was install the REDS XXS double bend header for what i though was going to tame down the bottom and open up the top...... well to my surprise it transformed the engine into a BEAST! I am now going to campaign that engine in my pro car, it is simply the best bang for the buck engine for the short geared Team C car. I know this is going to sound dumb but it literally pulled the front tires off the ground shifting into second gear multiple times!! Maybe there was a bump on the track at that exact point but either way the engine is insanely fast now! it has a 7mm venturi and i was getting 12min of runtime! AT any rate I was testing a larger head combo for the GT cars. Since we run an enclosed body temps are anywhere from 50-90 hotter with the body on (depending on ambient temps) REDS engines like to be around 220 with an exposed head so with a body on you can see where this is headed! So I machined a head extender which allows for more heat dissipation and raises the head higher to get in the airflow. This extension dropped temps 60+*,so problem solved! The factory is now producing US prototype bigger heads and once I finalize the right one two GT spec engines will be released to the public, one will be ROAR legal with 6mm venturi and the other will be a "pro" model based off of the M7T with a GT head and a few GT tweaks! Its going to be hard to beat this R5 spec engine!


WOW MARCUS...THAT IS GREAT NEWS...I GUESS I WILL WAIT FOR THAT MOTOR TO BE RELEASED...$300 FOR MOTOR AND PIPE JUST CANT BE BEAT PERIOD !!! TAKE NOTICE THAT ROAR IS ABOUT TO RELEASE CHANGES (TWEAKING ) TO THE GT RULES NEXT 10 DAYS AS NOTED ON THEIR SITE !! DON'T KNOW IF THE 6MM WILL BECOME A 7MM VENTURI : ) LETS CROSS OUR FINGERS AND TOES !! LOL...
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:07 PM   #858
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[QUOTE=MantisWorx;12741485]Thank you and you are very welcome!! post like this make it worth all of the drama i go through at times


I have been doing some testing for REDS over the last month or so and we finally have a solution to keeping the engines in their sweet spot!

My pleasure man, well deserved
Thanks for the Reds update Marcus that sounds awesome.

Cheers Daz
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:32 PM   #859
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PRE-ORDER IS NOW UP UNTIL NOVEMBER 24TH FOR THE GTR,FERRARI 458 AND MACLAREN MP4 LONG CHASSIS BODIES CHECK OUT RCSHOX.COM!
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:55 AM   #860
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That looks cool. I found racing 1/8 on road, it is a bit of a horsepower comp and everyone is leaning hard on the engines and I noticed the hot spot is always on exhaust port and any major wear on the pistons etc is where the exhaust port is super hot. novaRossi engines have extra cooling fins around exhaust port side of block. Maybe Reds could do a similar thing. But re casting an engine block is a bit mor involved than making larger head heat sink. Maybe another heat sink could be made to press over the exhaust port and fit between exhaust system and engine. I am only relatively new to this sport and it's only something I have noticed. It may be incorrect I don't know��.
I haven't even driven my Gt8 yet but after building it I had an idea. The centre 2 speed shaft could maybe be re-designed with a one way inside to allow for different brake adjustment front to rear. This may also help with any oversteer. Maybe if the rear end of the car were to break traction the front would have to also break traction to keep the rear of the car loose. Kind of like a 1/8 onroad car. Just an idea.
You have done a great job with the Gt8 and all your hours R&D really help guys like me.We really appreciate all the time you have put into this class.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:47 AM   #861
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Yes Marcus,

I would also like to pass on a big thank you for all of your suggestions and knowledge, we have our Team C cars completed and ready to race.

I have just completed the 1/8th GT Rules (AARCMCC IC 1_8 GT Onroad Technical Rules v 0.1 Draft) and submitted to the controlling body for RC Car Racing in Australia, we hope to have them approved prior to our state titles in April 2014.

Once again thank you for all the work you have done and contributed to our sport/ hobby

Regards Rob
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:07 AM   #862
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All this is great news...
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:26 AM   #863
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Originally Posted by Roberto168 View Post
That looks cool. I found racing 1/8 on road, it is a bit of a horsepower comp and everyone is leaning hard on the engines and I noticed the hot spot is always on exhaust port and any major wear on the pistons etc is where the exhaust port is super hot. novaRossi engines have extra cooling fins around exhaust port side of block. Maybe Reds could do a similar thing. But re casting an engine block is a bit mor involved than making larger head heat sink. Maybe another heat sink could be made to press over the exhaust port and fit between exhaust system and engine. I am only relatively new to this sport and it's only something I have noticed. It may be incorrect I don't know��.
I haven't even driven my Gt8 yet but after building it I had an idea. The centre 2 speed shaft could maybe be re-designed with a one way inside to allow for different brake adjustment front to rear. This may also help with any oversteer. Maybe if the rear end of the car were to break traction the front would have to also break traction to keep the rear of the car loose. Kind of like a 1/8 onroad car. Just an idea.
You have done a great job with the Gt8 and all your hours R&D really help guys like me.We really appreciate all the time you have put into this class.
Thank you so much!
The heat issue was not in a particular area and the REDS engine actually use the CC for a heat sink. the metal properties used in the REDS engines is different than Nova in that they simply do not run well over 230, 220 is optimal. Like a normal type engine the hotter they get the piston actually expands more and gets too tight where as on a Nova, they tend to get looser when they get hot. proof of this is that you do not need a heat gun to get a new REDs engine fired up and break in is 75% less than just about everyone else with OS being the longest IMO.

I have thought about some sort of center config to allow for brake bias but havent really come up with a way that can fit in the space and actually work. Its in my head but applying it is where it becomes a bit more difficult, but ya never know

Quote:
Originally Posted by rptech1 View Post
Yes Marcus,

I would also like to pass on a big thank you for all of your suggestions and knowledge, we have our Team C cars completed and ready to race.

I have just completed the 1/8th GT Rules (AARCMCC IC 1_8 GT Onroad Technical Rules v 0.1 Draft) and submitted to the controlling body for RC Car Racing in Australia, we hope to have them approved prior to our state titles in April 2014.

Once again thank you for all the work you have done and contributed to our sport/ hobby

Regards Rob
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All this is great news...

I know, i am a bit overwhelmed
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:42 PM   #864
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Hi guys,

What oil thickness are you using in the front and rear

Thank you
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:17 PM   #865
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Hi guys,

What oil thickness are you using in the front and rear

Thank you
Front and rear what, shocks or difs?
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:06 PM   #866
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Front and rear what, shocks or difs?
Both shocks front and rear and diffs front and back.
In tourer(200mm) a lot of guys run 60k rear and 200k front in their diffs would this combo work in the GT8? Our local track is Moorebank in sydney and they spray the track with sugar water so grip is very high. What do you recomend?
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:42 AM   #867
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Hi guys,

What oil thickness are you using in the front and rear diffs, I was thinking of Front 200,000 and Rear 60,000 or 80,000

Thank you
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:39 AM   #868
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remove the spider gear shims from the dif and run 300kF and 30k rear. anything over 30k in the rear you will lose exit grip and the car becomes a handfull.
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:52 PM   #869
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Correct me if I am wrong if I was running the following ratios

Spurs

First = 46T
Second = 42T


Pinions
First = 16T
Second = 20T

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Changing the spurs gears to,

Spurs
First = 44T
Second = 40T


Is almost the same as one tooth on the pinions right


Pinions
First = 17T
Second = 21T


I know roll outs come into play but changing the spurs is one option...
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:55 PM   #870
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remove the spider gear shims from the dif and run 300kF and 30k rear. anything over 30k in the rear you will lose exit grip and the car becomes a handfull.
Hi why do you remove the shims??
If I was to leave the shims in would the following be almost the same

Front Diff = 200,000wt
Rear Diff = 20,000wt

Thank you for the assistance, just trying to understand the suggested changes

Regards Rob
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