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Old 07-31-2013, 03:05 PM   #661
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Looks damn good Marcus! Wish they had that for the short wheelbase GT's. I saw the body Sweep is releasing for the short wheelbase GT and I'm not really diggin it.

Regards,

D

Yea, im not to sure about it either, I am more of a scale looking guy. I bet its going to handle well and i will try one, some times the right paint job makes all the difference.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:57 PM   #662
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Default Transmission

The transmission is pretty straight forward. I noticed another change from the factory in that the spacing tolerances are tighter. I only had to add one shim but on my car i have three and the last car i built also needed three, so someone is listening!
One thing i like to do is mark four sides of the adjustment screw so you always know where you are at when tightening or loosening the shift points. I have also found that it is just quicker and easier to just pull the tranny out and do it instead of try to see inside that little hole to trya nd adjust!


on the second gear side i install a 8x11x.2mm shim in between the bearing and the bell. Normally this part of the assemblyy is loose and that causes premature wear on second gear and it will lead to failure, since i started shimming i have yet to strip a gear!

When building your kit i suggest getting red blue and green loctite. the green loctite works well on plastic as it is a penetrating solution but on metal its damn near impossible to get off with out heat so i dont suggest using it on the center outdrives since your always messing with shift points. use the green on the gears though, red on the outdrives.


I use KYOSHO ball dif grease on the one-way shaft, i feel it is the best available and a bottle will last you for years! put a small amount around the end of the transmission shaft and "twist" the one-way assembly down, this evenly distributes the grease.
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:14 PM   #663
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Rear section complete!


Stage 2.5 modified REDS M7T GT
optional TeamC engine mount



Da Rolla
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:00 AM   #664
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Good stuff Marcus!
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:39 PM   #665
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MP12 is coming along!! Good looking body!

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Old 08-01-2013, 06:03 PM   #666
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Ultimate Team C GT8 "The Beast" Assembled and tuned by "The Best".
Great Job Marcus. Keep up the good work.
HBD !!!
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:19 PM   #667
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MP12 is now decaled up!





better pix tomorrow in the sunlight!
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:40 AM   #668
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Marcus, The pictures of the new bodies are great. Almost makes me want to put together a long wheelbase car just to run one. Let me know when you want to place the next order and I'll let you know which one.

Probably going to do the Ferrari, but the McLaren looks good as well.

Mark
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:49 AM   #669
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
Marcus, The pictures of the new bodies are great. Almost makes me want to put together a long wheelbase car just to run one. Let me know when you want to place the next order and I'll let you know which one.

Probably going to do the Ferrari, but the McLaren looks good as well.

Mark
I will have extras of each, just very limited. since i am pretty much done with big races this year I am going to play with the long chassis setups for a while. i should have so good video of the new bodies over the weekend!
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:54 AM   #670
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Yea, im not to sure about it either, I am more of a scale looking guy. I bet its going to handle well and i will try one, some times the right paint job makes all the difference.
I hear ya. I may pick one up just to see how well it works. I've been really happy with the PF8. It seems to just fit well with my driving style.

D
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:30 AM   #671
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8UVL-qkkdQ

Shock assembly secrets coming in a few hours, stay tuned!

Last edited by MantisWorx; 08-02-2013 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:05 PM   #672
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Default Shock build 101!

The TeamC shocks are some of the best in the business. Titanium nitride coated shafts, hard anodized and teflon coated bodies, clear silicone orings and now orange silicone bladders! Assembly is pretty much straight forward, one tip that i suggest doing is drilling a 1.5mm hole in the cap, this allows for zero rebound and very consistent shock builds since you dont have to worry about a percentage of rebound. the bladder takes care of that.


Since RCShox 2 stage pistons control their own rebound ,zero rebound shock build is recommended. Over the past few events i have been playing with rebound settings via the piston and have found that the car likes a very quick rebound so the upper piston vent holes have been enlarged to 1.8mm from 1.5 and the lower piston rebound holes are opened up to 1.7mm from 1.4, this aids in weight transfer and plants the car into the turns very well.

This is the proper stack for the 2 stage pistons and use a dab of red loctite on the shaft.


the new orange silicone TeamC bladders


shocks ready for install, "the beast" is getting short shocks all the way around, I am using the stock kit fronts in the rear and TeamC hard front springs in the front. I paint my springs so i can keep up with them.


FRONT


REAR:


servo and electronics next!
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Old 08-02-2013, 05:48 PM   #673
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Roller is done! just need to power up, set servos, alignment and hit the track for break in! Now i need to get mine back together!!


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Old 08-02-2013, 06:13 PM   #674
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WOW just did some weight measurements, My car with probably about 50% aluminum screws and lightweight towers was 3210g w/0 body and 3573 w/body and no arm braces (55g) this car with 99% aluminum screws ,light towers and titanium turnbuckles is 2993g w/0 body and 3356 w body!!! both cars have sweep tires!! Screws are very heavy, so his car is basically 200g lighter then my car which is probably 100g lighter than a stock car!
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:08 PM   #675
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Very cool Marcus!
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