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Old 07-11-2013, 07:56 AM   #511
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Thanks for the clutch set up tip MantisWorx ...
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #512
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Hey Marcus, to set your DROOP, what blocks and gauges do you
Use for the GT cars.I have 20mm blocks, and Droop gauges #107717-0 to 13mm. and#107711 - 3 to 10mm. (hudy).what's the right combination, in your opinion. Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:16 PM   #513
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Originally Posted by abi787 View Post
Hey Marcus, to set your DROOP, what blocks and gauges do you
Use for the GT cars.I have 20mm blocks, and Droop gauges #107717-0 to 13mm. and#107711 - 3 to 10mm. (hudy).what's the right combination, in your opinion. Thanks.
I use the 20mm integy blocks and set the droop to 12mm at the bottom of the outside hingepin front and rear.
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:42 PM   #514
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Marcus, is there any where I can get instructions on how to install the 3* toe block and arm stiffeners I just got from you?
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:32 PM   #515
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Marcus, is there any where I can get instructions on how to install the 3* toe block and arm stiffeners I just got from you?
The toe block installs just like the stock one and will only go on one way.

The arms braces require a 3/32 drill (.093) and are pretty straight forward.
  • lay the brace on the arm (do it with the arms installed on the car)
  • drill one hole and screw it down
  • do the same for the rest of them one at a time
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:25 AM   #516
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Originally Posted by abi787 View Post
Hey Marcus, to set your DROOP, what blocks and gauges do you
Use for the GT cars.I have 20mm blocks, and Droop gauges #107717-0 to 13mm. and#107711 - 3 to 10mm. (hudy).what's the right combination, in your opinion. Thanks.
Hi! I think the gauges that go with the blocks should have the 0 mark at the same hight as the hight of the block.
Just a little remark concerning the droop gauges. Those things actually give a downstop value, not a droop value. If I am not mistaken the droop is the amount of vertical travel from the ride high position to the point where wheels lift from ground. Indeed the droop has to be set with the downstop screws once the ride high is set, which is why I believe the gauges are called droop gauges.
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Old 07-13-2013, 06:28 AM   #517
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Hi! I think the gauges that go with the blocks should have the 0 mark at the same hight as the hight of the block.
Just a little remark concerning the droop gauges. Those things actually give a downstop value, not a droop value. If I am not mistaken the droop is the amount of vertical travel from the ride high position to the point where wheels lift from ground. Indeed the droop has to be set with the downstop screws once the ride high is set, which is why I believe the gauges are called droop gauges.
Yes this is true, it can be confusing! I rarely mess with droop and in my opinion it is usually used to limit traction on either end. Since this car is flat and GT cars tend to "roll" alot you dont need to be too critical with it. At the byrons event i had to increase droop in the rear on sunday because grip was getting really high and the inside rear tire was starting to rise on the higher speed turns which was making the rear lose traction and spin. This was common with pretty much everyone. I turned the rear droop screws 1/2 turn out and it went away.
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:13 PM   #518
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
The toe block installs just like the stock one and will only go on one way.

The arms braces require a 3/32 drill (.093) and are pretty straight forward.
  • lay the brace on the arm (do it with the arms installed on the car)
  • drill one hole and screw it down
  • do the same for the rest of them one at a time
Done thanks Marcus
I'll test these out tomorrow
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:40 PM   #519
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Done thanks Marcus
I'll test these out tomorrow

Cool, let us know!
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Old 07-13-2013, 03:13 PM   #520
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I raced my gtv2 L today and I must say I am selling both my full optioned dm-1s because the gt8l is planted like a slot car TQ'ed and won the Main I got a winner on my hands
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Old 07-13-2013, 06:33 PM   #521
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I raced my gtv2 L today and I must say I am selling both my full optioned dm-1s because the gt8l is planted like a slot car TQ'ed and won the Main I got a winner on my hands


THATS AWESOME MAN

This is starting to happen alot here lately
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:45 AM   #522
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Just wanted to share...

For our local club race top 3 were Team C GT8s. Fastest lap and TQ too. It's a car on rails. Among the Team C cars, lap times were close, a tenth of each other, the other brand cars were about a quarter sec of the pace of the Team Cs. Great racing.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:10 PM   #523
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THATS AWESOME MAN

This is starting to happen alot here lately
Does that 3°toe plate come in aluiminum because I just relized mine broke but the car was still stroking
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:17 PM   #524
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Originally Posted by jpn View Post
Just wanted to share...

For our local club race top 3 were Team C GT8s. Fastest lap and TQ too. It's a car on rails. Among the Team C cars, lap times were close, a tenth of each other, the other brand cars were about a quarter sec of the pace of the Team Cs. Great racing.
That is great to hear ......... awesome job.

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Old 07-14-2013, 04:39 PM   #525
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Originally Posted by jpn View Post
Just wanted to share...

For our local club race top 3 were Team C GT8s. Fastest lap and TQ too. It's a car on rails. Among the Team C cars, lap times were close, a tenth of each other, the other brand cars were about a quarter sec of the pace of the Team Cs. Great racing.
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Does that 3°toe plate come in aluiminum because I just relized mine broke but the car was still stroking
WOW, you must have really nailed something hard, if you broke that one you would have bent a stock one. I doubt i will make them out of aluminum, with the TeamC V3 toe block coming out soon (may be out already, i will check) it will be a better replacement piece and will be made out of aluminum.
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