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Old 07-09-2013, 10:03 AM   #496
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did you verify your rear toe?
I had better luck standing the rear shocks up, once you get the engine up to speed the rear will probably want to rotate on exit when it does stand them up. right now you are not getting full power since your still breaking the engine in.
Yes I put it on the Hudy and found exactly 3 degrees of toe in.
About the shocks, isn't laying them down supposed to give more side bite?
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:35 AM   #497
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Yes I put it on the Hudy and found exactly 3 degrees of toe in.
About the shocks, isn't laying them down supposed to give more side bite?

It will give more side bite off power and in the turn but the rear will always want to dance around on exit. Standing the rears up give more traction and the rear will want to follow the front, much easier to drive this way, especially on the long chassis.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:27 AM   #498
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It will give more side bite off power and in the turn but the rear will always want to dance around on exit. Standing the rears up give more traction and the rear will want to follow the front, much easier to drive this way, especially on the long chassis.
Ok. I'll try having them up too...
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:31 AM   #499
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Your car look really good this past weekend frenchi,
Keep working on it.

Marcus will give you all the details to make your car work.
Thanks Jose! I think I m gonna stop running 2 classes and alternate between Touring and GT.

You were ballistic in GT as usual... :-)
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:59 AM   #500
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Ok. I'll try having them up too...

Dont change until you get your race tune going on your new engine, if you are running excessively rich you will not have enough bottom end to get the rear to break loose anyway but as you start to lean it out you will probably notice that it will start to get loose. Since its a long chassis you will still be able to drive through it but that is not the fast way around a track!

when you do change it stand the rears up with the shock mounted on the inside of the arms and go with the longest rear link you can get to get your grip back.
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:49 PM   #501
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Dont change until you get your race tune going on your new engine, if you are running excessively rich you will not have enough bottom end to get the rear to break loose anyway but as you start to lean it out you will probably notice that it will start to get loose. Since its a long chassis you will still be able to drive through it but that is not the fast way around a track!

when you do change it stand the rears up with the shock mounted on the inside of the arms and go with the longest rear link you can get to get your grip back.
It's the short chassis I'm running. And the car breaks loose out of the turns already. That's why I had made the change of shock position...
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:07 PM   #502
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I use an Off Road cooling head, it helps with the temp... :-)
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:14 PM   #503
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It's the short chassis I'm running. And the car breaks loose out of the turns already. That's why I had made the change of shock position...
Laying them down makes matters worse, standing them up lets the car "square up" on exit!!

From HUDY:

outside on tower:
Less mid corner grip
More traction into corner
Squares up better on exit

Inside on arms:
Better for bumps and jumps
Less side bite
More exit traction

To compensate for any loss of grip you can go to a longer link


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I use an Off Road cooling head, it helps with the temp... :-)
So do i REDS M7t GT
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:30 PM   #504
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Laying them down makes matters worse, standing them up lets the car "square up" on exit!!

From HUDY:

outside on tower:
• Less mid corner grip
• More traction into corner
• Squares up better on exit

Inside on arms:
• Better for bumps and jumps
• Less side bite
• More exit traction

To compensate for any loss of grip you can go to a longer link




So do i REDS M7t GT
I heard good things about that reds motor
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Last edited by Joe Kimble; 07-10-2013 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:34 PM   #505
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I have a PDF of the Hudy setup guide and it says the exact opposite apart from the longer link haha... They
Need to make up their mind lol

I heard good things about that reds motor
Its the front settings that are opposite from this, they dont have the same effect make sure you are looking at the rear. I pasted that from the actual HUDY guide.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:14 PM   #506
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Its the front settings that are opposite from this, they dont have the same effect make sure you are looking at the rear. I pasted that from the actual HUDY guide.
I'm at work but I'll check again. The one I have doesn't mention the actual holes but says effect of rear more laid down than front VS front more laid down than rear.
Who cares let's do some more testing and have a blast :-)
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:45 AM   #507
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I'm at work but I'll check again. The one I have doesn't mention the actual holes but says effect of rear more laid down than front VS front more laid down than rear.
Who cares let's do some more testing and have a blast :-)

How is your clutch set up?
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:43 AM   #508
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How is your clutch set up?
I'm using the stock clutch.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:10 AM   #509
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What's a good clutch set up for a track with no sugar or vht? OS 25xz motor. Should I put one carbon shoe with a softer spring so that it can initially spool up and not a sudden bite of the 2 shoes simultaneously ?
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:47 AM   #510
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I'm using the stock clutch.
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Originally Posted by jpn View Post
What's a good clutch set up for a track with no sugar or vht? OS 25xz motor. Should I put one carbon shoe with a softer spring so that it can initially spool up and not a sudden bite of the 2 shoes simultaneously ?


I switched to BUKU but use the stock setup on my back up and practice engine. I have had best results using the stock shoes and then staggering springs with .9/1.0 and 1.1. works really well.
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