Team C 1/8 GT car
#496
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
did you verify your rear toe?
I had better luck standing the rear shocks up, once you get the engine up to speed the rear will probably want to rotate on exit when it does stand them up. right now you are not getting full power since your still breaking the engine in.
I had better luck standing the rear shocks up, once you get the engine up to speed the rear will probably want to rotate on exit when it does stand them up. right now you are not getting full power since your still breaking the engine in.
About the shocks, isn't laying them down supposed to give more side bite?
#497
It will give more side bite off power and in the turn but the rear will always want to dance around on exit. Standing the rears up give more traction and the rear will want to follow the front, much easier to drive this way, especially on the long chassis.
#500
Dont change until you get your race tune going on your new engine, if you are running excessively rich you will not have enough bottom end to get the rear to break loose anyway but as you start to lean it out you will probably notice that it will start to get loose. Since its a long chassis you will still be able to drive through it but that is not the fast way around a track!
when you do change it stand the rears up with the shock mounted on the inside of the arms and go with the longest rear link you can get to get your grip back.
#501
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Dont change until you get your race tune going on your new engine, if you are running excessively rich you will not have enough bottom end to get the rear to break loose anyway but as you start to lean it out you will probably notice that it will start to get loose. Since its a long chassis you will still be able to drive through it but that is not the fast way around a track!
when you do change it stand the rears up with the shock mounted on the inside of the arms and go with the longest rear link you can get to get your grip back.
when you do change it stand the rears up with the shock mounted on the inside of the arms and go with the longest rear link you can get to get your grip back.
Last edited by Joe Kimble; 07-09-2013 at 01:06 PM.
#503
From HUDY:
outside on tower:
• Less mid corner grip
• More traction into corner
• Squares up better on exit
Inside on arms:
• Better for bumps and jumps
• Less side bite
• More exit traction
To compensate for any loss of grip you can go to a longer link
So do i REDS M7t GT
#504
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Laying them down makes matters worse, standing them up lets the car "square up" on exit!!
From HUDY:
outside on tower:
• Less mid corner grip
• More traction into corner
• Squares up better on exit
Inside on arms:
• Better for bumps and jumps
• Less side bite
• More exit traction
To compensate for any loss of grip you can go to a longer link
So do i REDS M7t GT
From HUDY:
outside on tower:
• Less mid corner grip
• More traction into corner
• Squares up better on exit
Inside on arms:
• Better for bumps and jumps
• Less side bite
• More exit traction
To compensate for any loss of grip you can go to a longer link
So do i REDS M7t GT
Last edited by Joe Kimble; 07-10-2013 at 12:06 AM.
#505
Its the front settings that are opposite from this, they dont have the same effect make sure you are looking at the rear. I pasted that from the actual HUDY guide.
#506
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Who cares let's do some more testing and have a blast :-)
Last edited by Joe Kimble; 07-10-2013 at 12:07 AM.
#507
#509
What's a good clutch set up for a track with no sugar or vht? OS 25xz motor. Should I put one carbon shoe with a softer spring so that it can initially spool up and not a sudden bite of the 2 shoes simultaneously ?
#510
I switched to BUKU but use the stock setup on my back up and practice engine. I have had best results using the stock shoes and then staggering springs with .9/1.0 and 1.1. works really well.