eracer99

On the serpent website I saw a picture of the car of Mazzeo at the recent EC 1/10th.

The outside parts of the front lower bumper were cut out and he used the optional carbon upper bumper plate.
I don't know if this has been asked before, but what is the benifit of this?

Maybe the lower weight? But then also less weight on the front wheels.
But with these parts cut out, isn't the bumper then more fragile? (Maybe not for these pro drivers)

cho~ke

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogMc7...ature=youtu.be

Small Clips of the Serpent Team at the Nats

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Great video


Pass you soon...

GPXJOE

iTrader: (1)

Guys is anyone getting stripped rear belts if you use the low friction type with the plastic rear diff with the diff positioned in the most loose position? Lilbump? Mh7? Julius?

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

No, I've never stripped a rear belt. But I have to say I've never run my belts in the loosest position. This may cause the belt to jump a tooth which might strip the teeth. I normally run my low friction belts in the stock position and when they get fully broke-in I go one notch tighter.

Pass you soon...

Julius

I can't remember the last time I stripped a rear belt. But I don't think I often use the loosest position.
However if you do strip a belt often it is a good advice to change the plastic pulleys as well. Especially the 2speed shaft one. The teeth will wear due to the stripped belt making it easier to strip the next one...

GPXJOE

iTrader: (1)

How about the 2nd loosest position?
W
Another question,how often do u change the belts?

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I would not get stuck on which notch to use. You want your belts to spin easily with no binding; which ever notch does this is the one to use. In general I replace my belts before all big meets and mains. I normally press on my belts with my index finger while there still installed; If I can feel the ribs on the belt that is when I know it time to replace a belt. But you really never know when a belt will go.


Pass you soon...

GPXJOE

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys.from what I gather,it seems safer to be on the tighter end of the notches without being too tight to prevent stripping.

In other news, I ran my car last night and there were sparks in the back of the car while on the stretch.the tough part was this. The rear half of the chassis is now thinner than the front part due to scraping. I'm sure this happens to you guys too. In faxt, I cannot see the "aerospace quality" font anymore. This should be normal but should I change the chassis already? I used it for 3races only and 2 of which were not completed due to rain. I thought the chassis was bent after I put a ruler on it but I really believe that the rear just got thinner and it is not bent.should I change chassis?

GPXJOE

iTrader: (1)

Can I also say, that the sliding weights is the best innovation the team made so far!its so easy and the results are instant and fast adjustment!

Due to this, it seemed strange to adjust other parts because I felt I did not have to and because I had enough steering already.very happy with the sliding weight final setting I made!

asc

How is everyone using the chassis weights? Is just one enough to get a benefit? Or is 2 better like it suggests on the serpent site?

Julius

The chassis is most likely fine. But you may be running a bit too low. The 747 can handle quite large rideheights actually. Running too low, especially with red or softer springs is not ideal.

I tnd to run 7 mm rear an 6 front with 63/61 tires. Lower and you will have too much bottoming out with small tires.

didrace

Ok guys i build a brand new 747 and i have done evrything stated on the manual ..

I started the car with an already broken in engine and the car wouldnt move..


so i unscrew the centax nut and tried it again..

the car still wouldnt move until i uncrew the nut to point where the car would move ok

the clutch was working ok however the acceleration was not good at all you could hear the clutch slipping.. i have tried many positions on the clutch nut and finally when i run the car two three laps on the track the clutch was getting really hot and it would start making the engine make that strange noice... at the end i manged to run the brand new car a few laps and the yellow show will slip that much that the car will not move at all..the show was destroyed in a less than two three tanks..

how come there was so much slippage from the begining? i dont know what i did wrong..

now i have a black show from 710 car and i dont know if i should put it on the 747 or not... btw the clutchbell had as per manual a gap of 0.6. i put only 1 shim between the thrust bearing and the other bushing.

i am so confused.. someone told me that the capricorn clutches are the way to go..he told me he had problems with his serpent clutches as well..

i had a serpent 720 and i didnt have such a problem before...is there anyone that can enlight me ?? is there anyone that had the same problem?

thanks a lot..

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I would take a look at the Michael Salvin video on Youtube on how to set a centax clutch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjogF57xpo.

Pass you soon...

didrace

Thanks for the quick response.

Well i did my clutch setup very similar to what Salven describes on the video.

That is why i am so impressed that the setup did not work.

i do not know what to do..