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Old 01-11-2013, 07:21 AM
  #331  
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Originally Posted by implusepro
anyone know the difference between the standard kit "black" shock pistons, and the optional "white" shock pistons (part 160118)?

Eg: 2 hole black piston vs 2 hole white piston?
The white pistons are machined pistons these will be more accurate to size than the injection molded pistons (standard kit black pistons)

Pass you soon ...
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:37 AM
  #332  
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Originally Posted by asc
Thanks for your help, I already tried sanding the shoe, but I will sand a little more and hopefully be ok.

Also, can someone please explain the setup sheet to me - with Ackerman adjustment (standard sheet) - do the black dots represent where the screws are supposed to go e.g. On the stock setup to the rear and to the outside, or where the holes are, to the front and closer together?

This also relates to the shock pistons, one hole has a dot on each, should I be using the 1 hole pistons, or does this mean 3 hole?

Appreciate the help.
Yes the black dots are the screws or a closed hole. The white dots are open holes. I believe the setup sheets explains this.


Pass you soon...
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:00 PM
  #333  
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Originally Posted by lil-bump
Yes the black dots are the screws or a closed hole. The white dots are open holes. I believe the setup sheets explains this.


Pass you soon...
Thanks again.

I double checked, it does not mention this anywhere on the setup sheet that came with my kit.

Just to clarify, standard setup should be 3 hole pistons all round, correct?
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:09 PM
  #334  
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Originally Posted by asc
Thanks again.

I double checked, it does not mention this anywhere on the setup sheet that came with my kit.

Just to clarify, standard setup should be 3 hole pistons all round, correct?
I just checked; you are correct the default set-up sheet does not show this info. Look at a more current setup sheet. If you notice the white hole is the same color as the background which means you are looking thru an open hole.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:54 PM
  #335  
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Originally Posted by GPXJOE
Guys help.

I just started building the car. When I put in the front lower arms, I only put a 2mm spacer,it's supposed to be 3mm spacers total right? 3mm spacers won't fit. Only 2mm will fit and there's a 0.6mm gap where the arm is moving front and back.

And when I put the front belt with the "f" letter completely vertical, the belt seems too tight. I adjusted it to the most loose possible position. Is that a problem if its in the loose position,the position the manual wants is just too tight that when u turn the center pulley, the train is not so free.
Talking about the front lower arms you only use two 1m spacers ,one in front of the lower arm and one behind .
And to set the gap you loosen the suspension bracket push it forward then tighten it back. (Suspension bracket) part #804269 . Refer to page 5 , or exploded view of car
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:52 AM
  #336  
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Originally Posted by SlowPushin
Talking about the front lower arms you only use two 1m spacers ,one in front of the lower arm and one behind .
And to set the gap you loosen the suspension bracket push it forward then tighten it back. (Suspension bracket) part #804269 . Refer to page 5 , or exploded view of car
i saw that. part 804269. how can that part move forward if after you tighten the 2 screws, that part will move back again into its same position.i think i will sand down a 1mm spacer for it to fit. this 804269 has a set position that is dependent on where the screws put it.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:26 AM
  #337  
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guys i just opened the centax bag and among the 3 clutch shoes, 1 out of the 3 is bigger then the other two. is this the way it really is or was it a packing mistake. the bigger one looks like its for the 1/8 scale
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:56 PM
  #338  
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probably an 8th scale one by accident.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:53 AM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by JamesHealey
probably an 8th scale one by accident.
exactly what happened. i got the correct shoe now.

anyways, guys, is this correct, the 3 shoes are positioned as if the pin is poushing the shoe, not pulling it? if u look at the flywheel, we know that it spins counterclockwise, so if you put the shoe, you insert it in the right hole with the left hole free? is this how the truemotion really works? so the flywheel pin is pushing the shoe, not pulling it?thats what the manual says

if this is true then wow!
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:05 AM
  #340  
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yes, the fly weights are "leading" the pins....
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:02 PM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by GPXJOE
i saw that. part 804269. how can that part move forward if after you tighten the 2 screws, that part will move back again into its same position.i think i will sand down a 1mm spacer for it to fit. this 804269 has a set position that is dependent on where the screws put it.
hi can anyone tell me how to remove the play of the lower front arms? i have o.6mm play frontwards to backwards. do i sand the spacer? so after sanding, there should be a total amount of spacers worth around 2.4mm.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:11 PM
  #342  
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its always good to have a little bit of play,but 0,6 is too much.i would recommend you shim them between the spacers to keep a good balance
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:14 PM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by GPXJOE
hi can anyone tell me how to remove the play of the lower front arms? i have o.6mm play frontwards to backwards. do i sand the spacer? so after sanding, there should be a total amount of spacers worth around 2.4mm.
I normally shave the arms in the rear side for about .4 mm, then use a 1 mm spacer in the front and a 1 mm spacer in the back of the arm.
After that the arms move free.

Hope that helps.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:18 PM
  #344  
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guys im gona be honest

my pinions are not aligned with the 2 speed gears. and the manual told me that i need shims behind the cone behind the flywheel. why can't serpent include those 7mm shims in the kit??? and for some reason, the hobbyshops in the philippines dont have the stupid shims.

and i cannot find the shims part number in the manual. there is no 7mm shims. there is only 5mm and 6mm.

this 7mm shim is so important why is it not in the kit? not to mention some 6mm screws are lacking in the kit.

even if some some crankshafts are 7mm or 6mm, the shims could have been included. i would have paid 20 euros more for the kit for it to be included. and i use a nova flash PT .12 so its not like its a rare type of engine with a different size.

and about the centax, the manual says to close the adjusting nut completely then open 1.5 turns. after i do that the nut is still inside compared to michael salven's video that seems to be more loose than what the manual tells. what is the best number of turns after tightening completely?or how many millimeter from the end of the crankshaft to the adjusting nut?

again, thanks so much for helping guys. u are the only credible ones i can ask because 747 is still new in manila philippines and im one of the first to have this in manila. the last one was the serpent 720 5-6 years ago. and dogbone hobbyshop here in manila is also testing the car as early as i am.so they dont know much too as well.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:23 PM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by pranash07
its always good to have a little bit of play,but 0,6 is too much.i would recommend you shim them between the spacers to keep a good balance
ya i also thought 0.6mm is too much.

do u mean i sand the shims evenly to all shims? what do u mean by "shim them between the spacers"? put the plastic shims? the size of the plastic shims are 1,2,and 3mm.
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