DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

My car with a standard body and a heavy set of wheels without foams:



Aim is to get it below the 1500 mark, just for fun.

I think it's going to be a good year for Capricorn.

Exactly, every modern 1/8 is already around 2400 grams. Most modern 1/10 cars are around 1650.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

DS,for you the goal is 1400gr 1500gr would be too easy.
I'll try to get my RRR down to 1600.

Roelof

I am not talking about an MRX3 although that is still a good car with some MRX4-X parts. I was talking about cars like the MRX4-X. Standard with a light weight body and engine I did came at 2510 gram.
Normally those cars out of the box with a normal engine and body do weight about 2550. Also on a Dutch forum a guy running a 733 is wondering how to loose 150 gram.

And beside that, it is not the current performance difference in the type of the car and the driver but the idea that the 100/150 gram difference is making that a lot bigger. The urge to invest in loosing weight to keep up others at their level can make a difference in a yes or no driving an EC.....

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

Seriously how do you loose 100-150grams on a car?, I'd say I could get down to 1600, but 1550 still seems overkill, at a guess you would 'need' all titanium screws and ceramic bearings everywhere?, making it an expensive exercise.

It's funny when you sit back and think, well current limits just seem too high, but then they go radical and it's suddenly, how on earth can you bring in a limit people will bust a gut trying to get down to?.


As to some of the other changes, many were talked about at the recent worlds, and I know that 16% nitro for 8th did not seem real popular, but then very few people seem even able to use the power they have with 25% or more.

Did anything come of the idea to cut down the bodies on 8th scale?, there was talk of reducing the wings with a goal to cut down tyre wear or something like that.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

LiFe Rx pack and a titanium upper screw kit and you will be close.

Roelof

Nice sugestion, why not telling the others to use a NiMh batterypack and plain steel screws?

Do not get me wrong but I have more faith in NiMh than LiPo and LiFe. Drivers arround me have faced many problems and some did go back to NiMh. Also using NiMh is much easier to charge within our rules. And there is still my remark that adding weight is much easier and cheaper than loosing weight.

Beside that, I believe within a year (or 2) the global body spec is ready and one of the sugested specs is that thin materials will be ruled out. Maybe we need to go up again to 2450 gram?

Thybaut

I think I’m that guy. And I have to lose almost 250 gram

I have a 733 EVO with two Savox 1257 servo’s a LiFe recieverpack and normal tires and body. Race ready (no fuel) my car weights almost 1800 gram. The Savox servo’s are a bit heavy and I could use lightweight tires and body. New lighter servo’s will be a big investment for me and not really an option as I’m a poor student. Beside that I don’t like lightweight tires and body’s as I have seen them break a lot more often than standard one’s. Again this will increase the running costs. Even when I make these changes I doubt if I will get near 1550 gram.
I understand why some people want a lower weight limit, but lowering it to 1550 gram is a far to big step. At every race I will attend which use the 1550 gram limit I will feel like I have a disadvantage from the start. And this will take away the fun for me as I won’t have a fair chance. The gap between the fast guys which probably will be able to make the weight limit and the slower guys (me) which don’t have the latest and lightest stuff will only increase. This is something you don’t want I think.

What car’s will be able to make the 1550 gram weight limit? I know the Capricorn but are there others?
What can I do to lower the weight of my car without big investments? Any help is appreciated!

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Last night thought about using Ti screws and whatever,the most gains are from rotational mass right?And then suspension right?So,LW diffs,shafts,cvds,hingepins and pillow balls would net the most gain and guess what they are coming on the new gen cars.Screws are too expensive for the weight reduction offered and I believe any 1/10 would fall in the 1600gr region maybe even the R40 and the 733!

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

1550 grams for 200mm sedan is a bit of a stretch. I just bought my 733 TE and there is no way I'm going too get close to that number. Not sure why the limit was lowered so much. The nitro percentage has not changed. It would cost me a ton of cash to get my car close to the legal limit. I hope the USA block does not adopt these changes. And I will not run a Cap car just because it is closer to the legal limit.

Pass you soon...

Roelof

With other words, some people in the AGM do not know the reality?

MRX4XXXX

Still remember when 1/12 scale changed from 6cells to 4cells. It was so huge change that it nearly killed the class for apr. 3years!!

Those changes with the weights and engines feels like the same level things to me. 5min, 5ports, 13mm rear bearing, huh. It means that every race engine that anybody has at home, will be useless, novarossi and others need to make new molds for the engine cases...

In the end, it will be us, the normal people, who will be paying all the costs, someway or another.

-X-

choisan

iTrader: (6)

i will probably hold up my plan of buying new engine. and the current engines will be on sale(not a bad idea- for those who don't race)

romain_f

5 ports and 13mm crankshaft, are just ideas... So we can easeliy run our 9 port engines for at least 3 years!!

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

I don't think 1400 is possible without seriously weakening the car, plus then I have the same problem as I have now, where do I put all that weight to get it back up to 1550?.

Ceramic bearings aren't any lighter compared to steel ones, I also thought they would be lighter but there was only a 0,2 gram difference per bearing.
The most weight can be saved from the engine, electronics and the diffs(composite gears and alu pins)

You could try a small Lipo, I use a 800Mah one which only costs like $6.
This year I ran it without a regulator while using a low profile throttle servo which can only handle 6V according to the specifications.
Most can be gained from the electronics, small lipo, low profile throttle servo (there aren't any good ones available for steering) shorten the wiring, use thinner wiring.

With the 733 I would weigh all the plastic used for the servo and receiver mounting and get rid of it completely. Just use 2 aluminum mounts for the steering servo and tape the receiver directly to the throttle servo.

I don't know if the 733 comes with aluminum pivot balls as standard, otherwise you could purchase a set of those as they save a big amount of weight, and more importantly it's unsprung weight.
If you have steel pivot balls you can hollow them out, the Capricorn ones are hollow as standard.
In 2009 I used hollow aluminium pivot balls but these were a bit too fragile, hit the concrete wall once and the entire RH suspension broke off the car.

Pooh2

EFRA needs to let the racers decide. It looks like they're going to kill nitro on road.