Italboy

I never copy the setup of those drivers.. They have their own drive style, especially when the tyres have been treated. I run without any treatment so I have to find the right setup to achieve the mechanical grip (not chemical :-) )
I run almost standard with few modifications.

speed6

You never use the screws you mean?

H4gI

ENS is with handout tyres and no additive. If you guys want, I can post Eric's winning setup. I think it's a good one.

Cheers

speed6

What are we waiting for

Thanks

H4gI

Cheers

speed6

Hi guys tried the carbon diff cases and they are way better than the kevlar in order to seal / tighten better. Unfortunately they also leak as i always find some liquid on the front sway bar
Do you guys seal it with some sort of procedure?

Does the NEW 2014 version come with a reversed clutch,

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

Yes, never use the screws.

For the diff I coat the big O-ring with liquid gasket to make sure the diff is fully sealed. Since the diff walls are very thin the diff housing is very sensitive to the amount of torque applied to the screws. Make sure to fasten them evenly in a crosswise pattern.
Also make sure there is no oil inside the holes where the screws go in, if you leave oil inside these holes you will strip the thread. Then the diff will never seal.

My 2014 car came with the reverse clutch, however someone here told me his car came with the normal clutch.
Personally I prefer the normal clutch with the aluminum bell and yellow shoe.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

To fix the issue with the carbon diffs you need to drill a 1mm hole through the hole for the screws and out the other end of the diff case and use 2.5mmx10mm screws.

Drilling the hole prevents hydraulic lock in the screw hole so when oil gets in the screw hole it has somewhere to go. The longer screws allow you to tighten the case that bit extra.

nikoskar

Or you can use the kyosho philips screws same size.

speed6

The gasket will have to replaced once opened because of the liquid gasket right, can't i try use high temp grease?

I fasten evenly and i also do a crosswise pattern and also check for any oil inside the holes.

One last thing my car really suffered this weekend, rear was loosing to much grip going off power into a turn especially in the sweeper, tried lowering the rear shocks, increase rear town in, increased rear camber, harder front sway bars, 1 step harder springs up front (track had extremely low grip), Xray and Mugen also suffered but not as much as i did. i ran big bore but i always suspected that the Capricorn car suffers to much on low grip surfaces, lets also say the good things as on high grip the car is extremely nice to drive but i get pissed when i see xray drivers leave the same setup and car is still a bit better than mine after all the adjustment i did. Kindly enlighten me

British Menace

Hey ...

Try lowering the rear role centre either by lowering the rear,lower, inner wishbone pivot pin or raising the rear,top,inner pivot point.

Increasing rear toe will help rear grip on power on corner exit only. I would put that back to the way it was.
You could also try a thinner rear shock oil or increasing the rear shock piston hole number by one.

Increasing front anti-dive could also work. More angle or bigger rear wing might help if you have a spare too....

Anti role bar can work too ..... either way. So try going harder first on the rear ARB. If no improvement .... try the softer one. (Presuming here you have the middle one of the three :-)

Some things to try SPEED6 sorry its a little after the fact.

Regards
BM

speed6

Was running an 8 hole piston on the rear vs a 6 hole upfront, will try play with roll center.

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I ran my C02 Black Edition (original 2013 version) for the first time this past weekend. Overall, the car performed well and held up great. I managed to Q6 in the amain and had good pace throughout the day. In Q3 and the main I struggled with my new motor and couldn't get the results that I was hoping for. I finished the main but had numerous flameouts which ended any chance of a good finish.

I made the following observations while working on my car.

1) All 4 pivot balls were bent after minor contact with the barrier. We race on a parking lot with a wood board/PVC style barrier system. I'll admit that this system is tough on cars but I really hope that the titanium pivot balls hold up better than the stock steel pivot balls.

2) Very early into the day the shocks developed air bubbles and required a rebuild. I'll need to address this quickly or I'm looking at rebuilding these shocks (version 1 Big Bores) after every run. The problem could be in the bottom end, a combination of using different o-rings and adding spacers to better seal that area may work. Any input and/or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I'm looking forward to my next outing with this car. Racing nitro on-road is intoxicating, its much more exciting than electric touring.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

John C what type of o-ring are you using in the bottom shock cap?
if using the stock x-type replace it for a standard o-ring

British Menace

8 Hole?? Wow.....
Maybe try changing nothing else and just go to 4 or 5 hole rear pistons with everything else the same ...... including the rear oil visc'.
Or go harder / stiffer on the rear shock springs. Sounds odd I know but if your too soft the car will not have any mechanical grip at the rear.

Regards
BM