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Old 04-06-2012, 04:37 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
Not to barge in... but LMK when you guys are gonna be at LH. Last year seemed like the turnouts were amazingly low. I raced the MWS, but passed on the Byrons race. Regretted it big time. I know the el. guys are gonna have good turnouts. Menace, last time I seen you was about 4 years ago, pitting outside the south fence! Happy Easter! Nick A
I won't be ready for gas shake down until early may.
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:47 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
Not to barge in... but LMK when you guys are gonna be at LH. Last year seemed like the turnouts were amazingly low. I raced the MWS, but passed on the Byrons race. Regretted it big time. I know the el. guys are gonna have good turnouts. Menace, last time I seen you was about 4 years ago, pitting outside the south fence! Happy Easter! Nick A
Well hello Nick. Yes, its been a while. I think I may have caught the "bug" again.... lol

Maybe this time I will graduate and marshal at the North fence with the Big boys ... hehe

Looking fore ward to getting my car!!
How have you been?

BM
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:26 PM   #63
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assembled the front diff no problem. when assembling the rear diff, the hole drilled in one diff cup shaft seems to be in a slightly wrong spot. The pin has to be forced through the shaft, and causes the assembled half to be very tight, not spinning freely as the others do. Can i drill this out more? Does it need replacing?

Also, there is one bad diff bearing so it looks like i wont be finishing anytime soon. I do not wish to buy these parts. The kit is $700 and I do not intend to spend $740 to get it together.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:46 PM   #64
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assembled the front diff no problem. when assembling the rear diff, the hole drilled in one diff cup shaft seems to be in a slightly wrong spot. The pin has to be forced through the shaft, and causes the assembled half to be very tight, not spinning freely as the others do. Can i drill this out more? Does it need replacing?

Also, there is one bad diff bearing so it looks like i wont be finishing anytime soon. I do not wish to buy these parts. The kit is $700 and I do not intend to spend $740 to get it together.
Hopefully you will have better luck when you start racing the car....

One question I do have ....
did your kit come with the Nit ride coated titanium shock shafts?

BM
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:02 PM   #65
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Lab-C02 comes with plastic diff gears?If yes how often do you change them?
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:05 PM   #66
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Lab-C02 comes with plastic diff gears?If yes how often do you change them?
Probably the best thing to do is skim through the Lab C01 thread from beginning to end. I did this recently when I got the C02 kit. This should answer most of your questions.

Yes, the kit comes with composite gears, which are great according to those who have had the car for a season or more, and where said to be like new after a half season of racing by a driver writing in the C01 thread.

My C02 kit came with the following parts:
1. Titanium shock shafts
2. composite gears
3. lightweight axles
4. Aluminum servo saver
5. Kevlar pulleys
6. Low-friction belts
7. Blade style front plastic upper bumper support
8. Plastic battery tray
9. Aluminum one-piece motor mount
10. Standard C02 radio tray (not ffs flex radio tray)
11. Standard blade-type anti-roll bar (not new design)
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:14 AM   #67
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I heard Capricorn are comming out with Titanium CVD's for t&e C-02 .......... is that right?
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:24 AM   #68
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This thread is strangley quiet ....
Since I got the car .... lol

Anyway,

The 'light' Capricorn flywheel nut CAP-408L
Does anyone have one of these? Are they actally lighter then the stock item?

Thanks
BM
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:05 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
This thread is strangley quiet ....
Since I got the car .... lol

Anyway,

The 'light' Capricorn flywheel nut CAP-408L
Does anyone have one of these? Are they actally lighter then the stock item?

Thanks
BM
2.6g compared to 1g for the light version.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:13 AM   #70
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Hi all
I'm lacking a bit of entry and early mid
Corner steering this is the set up I'm
Useing
Down stop F 1. R 4
Ride height F 6.5. R 7.5
Tyres F 60. 37s R 62. 40s
Springs. F&R black
Dampening F&R 3 hole 60w
Shock pos F&R down
Sway bars F 1mm R 2 mm
Diff oils F 200. R 70
Roll centre Front Inside middle
Roll centre Rear upper arm Inside middle
Roll centre Rear lower arm 1 up from bottom.
Upper arm 1.5 mm at hub
Ackerman 11 steering 23deg each side
Caster 2mm each side Of arm
Camber FL 1 1/2 FR 1 1/4
Camber RL 3 1/2 RR 3
Track width F 197 1/2 R 199
Top deck cut out no brace in
Also is it better to run the front upper arm
In or out which one will give more steer
Thanx in advance
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:13 AM   #71
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Hi all
I'm lacking a bit of entry and early mid
Corner steering this is the set up I'm
Useing
Down stop F 1. R 4
Ride height F 6.5. R 7.5
Tyres F 60. 37s R 62. 40s
Springs. F&R black
Dampening F&R 3 hole 60w
Shock pos F&R down
Sway bars F 1mm R 2 mm
Diff oils F 200. R 70
Roll centre Front Inside middle
Roll centre Rear upper arm Inside middle
Roll centre Rear lower arm 1 up from bottom.
Upper arm 1.5 mm at hub
Ackerman 11 steering 23deg each side
Caster 2mm each side Of arm
Camber FL 1 1/2 FR 1 1/4
Camber RL 3 1/2 RR 3
Track width F 197 1/2 R 199
Top deck cut out no brace in
Also is it better to run the front upper arm
In or out which one will give more steer
Thanx in advance
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:25 AM   #72
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I would first try some more caster, go to 1mm behind the arm.
Secondly you could try the 0,9mm front anti roll bar.

All other settings seem to be pretty good, balanced.

A shorter front upper arm will give more steering at corner entry, the car also reacts quicker. I had some problems with achieving the right camber settings though, I had to shorten the upper pivot ball by 2mm to get the desired camber settings with the shortest upper arm.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:36 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
I would first try some more caster, go to 1mm behind the arm.
Secondly you could try the 0,9mm front anti roll bar.

All other settings seem to be pretty good, balanced.

A shorter front upper arm will give more steering at corner entry, the car also reacts quicker. I had some problems with achieving the right camber settings though, I had to shorten the upper pivot ball by 2mm to get the desired camber settings with the shortest upper arm.
thanks DS ill give it a try this weekend and report back
cheers
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:14 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monaro View Post
Hi all
I'm lacking a bit of entry and early mid
Corner steering this is the set up I'm
Useing
Down stop F 1. R 4
Ride height F 6.5. R 7.5
Tyres F 60. 37s R 62. 40s
Springs. F&R black
Dampening F&R 3 hole 60w
Shock pos F&R down
Sway bars F 1mm R 2 mm
Diff oils F 200. R 70
Roll centre Front Inside middle
Roll centre Rear upper arm Inside middle
Roll centre Rear lower arm 1 up from bottom.
Upper arm 1.5 mm at hub
Ackerman 11 steering 23deg each side
Caster 2mm each side Of arm
Camber FL 1 1/2 FR 1 1/4
Camber RL 3 1/2 RR 3
Track width F 197 1/2 R 199
Top deck cut out no brace in
Also is it better to run the front upper arm
In or out which one will give more steer
Thanx in advance
I would also think about trying

- 3 rear droop
- 150km front diff
- 35 shore front tires

With these changes you should get much better turn in and middle. You could even go to 198 on the front track width to keep the car smoother.

DJ Apolaro
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:05 AM   #75
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Hello friends!
I had a pre race weekend trying to find the best set up for My CO2 ( the only in Greece....hihihi) and start using Your set up DS.
The only problem is that the track was very slipery and I will need softer springs than stock. ( I think I must ordere them from Cap )
I tryied to set up the front solid axle and check the letest low grip that Our Friend DS pablished but I am having a problem.
How am I going to use the plastic ship with the axle since it doesn't stay in place? Should I use a glue and glue it to the pinion?
If somebody can help please do...
As for shofter springs I used the Blue Xray ( same length ) but I think I will need something harder..Maybe violet...
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