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Old 05-27-2014, 01:20 AM   #526
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Personally I don't bother using the O-rings, they can cause a leakage or need regular replacement.

I make my own O-ring using liquid gasket, liquid sealant.
Basically I fill up the area where the O-ring normally sits with liquid sealant (Loctite 598).
First clean the diff housing very well, you want the gasket to stick to the housing.
The cap, or flange you want to leave a bit oiled.
This way the gasket doesn't stick to the flange and can be left in place.
I've opened up diffs 10+ times without replacing the liquid gasket.
Thanks for the input Daan.
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:28 AM   #527
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I solved the diff leaking issue using an old technique we used to do in offroad.

The edge of the diff bowl where the diff cap meets is not 100 flat due to some trimmings etc, so first things first you need to sand the bowl using 1000 grit sand paper in figures of eight on a flat surface. Than I put some high temp grease on the gasket and viola till now looks bullet proof
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:36 AM   #528
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Default Really...

Our cap C0-2 that's two years old drove 5 rounds, 1 semi and a final with only the side belt tensioner falling off. Same chassis, arms, pulleys and the event was completed without even a spur change.

For performance we changed the clutch bell, spring and shoe, the bell had seen better days, it was due to lack of attention on our part, being lazy with clutch maintenance.

It was a tight track, electric style and we were on and off power all weekend. Yes it's true, parts are expensive compared to other brands, but they don't fail with normal operation. It's a moot point regarding costs, besides, I spent double the price of a kit on accommodation and flights. The track was coated, we used 4mm per 10 minutes, Capricorn Australia was there and supplied race pricing on tyres at events, always a good thing!

Our car is so old that the chassis has a bend and there's no way you can un-bend it, my knee hurt trying! More than likely heat tempering from the engine.

Overall the car is outstanding, most the cars we were racing against where Capricorn too, we were running red springs, others were on turquoise, some using short big bore and we were on original shocks and they all performed well.

It hasn't in the past and it didn't let us down all weekend and that made it a very enjoyable weekend for Luke and I. What more could you ask...

h
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:03 AM   #529
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Originally Posted by blis View Post
Our cap C0-2 that's two years old drove 5 rounds, 1 semi and a final with only the side belt tensioner falling off. Same chassis, arms, pulleys and the event was completed without even a spur change.

For performance we changed the clutch bell, spring and shoe, the bell had seen better days, it was due to lack of attention on our part, being lazy with clutch maintenance.

It was a tight track, electric style and we were on and off power all weekend. Yes it's true, parts are expensive compared to other brands, but they don't fail with normal operation. It's a moot point regarding costs, besides, I spent double the price of a kit on accommodation and flights. The track was coated, we used 4mm per 10 minutes, Capricorn Australia was there and supplied race pricing on tyres at events, always a good thing!

Our car is so old that the chassis has a bend and there's no way you can un-bend it, my knee hurt trying! More than likely heat tempering from the engine.

Overall the car is outstanding, most the cars we were racing against where Capricorn too, we were running red springs, others were on turquoise, some using short big bore and we were on original shocks and they all performed well.

It hasn't in the past and it didn't let us down all weekend and that made it a very enjoyable weekend for Luke and I. What more could you ask...

h
Good to hear you and Luke had a good weekend Harry.


Regards,
Andrew
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:14 PM   #530
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+1 on the blis point. Up until this year I was driving the original LAB-CO1 and the car was dialed, great and reliable. Of course I kept up on the maintenance and it rarely let me down. I was on pace with newer cars of all brands with that car. Great car...
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Old 06-28-2014, 12:42 AM   #531
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New page added with setups for the team here in the UK:
http://shop.cpdracing.co.uk/index.ph...page=page&id=2
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:37 AM   #532
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@DS motorsports. Not going to lie I'm pretty confused on how you set up your diffs. Is there any way you can post a picture?

On a side note. I ran my first nitro race last weekend with a CO1. Loved it. Car was super fast and handled really well. The only down side was the leaking diff that was getting grease on my brake and well yeah...
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:59 AM   #533
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Default Building Diffs

[QUOTE=Mr.A Morris;13424150]@DS motorsports. Not going to lie I'm pretty confused on how you set up your diffs. Is there any way you can post a picture?

Capamerica.com has an excellent tutorial on building the diff by DJ.
Hope this helps.
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:17 AM   #534
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Hey guys, I'm running lab c02 stock set up...Need your suggestion on how I could improve on my cornering...
I find it very difficult for me to control when the car approaches a corner ... the steering becomes too sensitive for me such that I lose control of the car easily when I enter a corner...
What can I do to improve on this? Any suggestion is very much appreciated
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:41 AM   #535
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Where can setups be found for this car???
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:23 AM   #536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyder View Post
Hey guys, I'm running lab c02 stock set up...Need your suggestion on how I could improve on my cornering...
I find it very difficult for me to control when the car approaches a corner ... the steering becomes too sensitive for me such that I lose control of the car easily when I enter a corner...
What can I do to improve on this? Any suggestion is very much appreciated
-You can try to add more shims for the rear camber link
-raise the front upper roll center pins
-lower rear roll center pins
-softer front shock oil or more holes in the pistons
-make front wide for the track width
-less rear droop travel


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Old 08-06-2014, 06:27 PM   #537
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What parts does everyone recommend to keep on hand when running this car??
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:30 AM   #538
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What parts does everyone recommend to keep on hand when running this car??
F/R Belts, +2 side belt, Spur, pinions, side pulleys because they wear, Diff rebuild kit, Clutch shoe and bell....Oh and a whole lotta spare time and love!

That's all this car needs to run a 2 seasons providing you don't hit things.

Take a GOOD hard look at your side belt tensioner and make it better. ( We found a thrust bearing retainer and a few shims worked for us. Many possibilities!)

The car is race spec and surprisingly rock solid, with that in mind something has to give in the transmission and that's often a visible wear in side belt and it's normal.
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:24 PM   #539
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What's a good starting setup for this car. Getting the car used so not sure.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:36 PM   #540
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Default Pulley

Hi, RE: 20T rear pulley C02, does any other brand fit, in Australia only a full pulley kit is available.

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