R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-18-2014, 03:41 PM   #511
Les
Tech Addict
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 627
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Bearings

The bearings in my belt tensioner, the pivot point, haven't lasted long and the new ones have movement after 1 race meeting.
Cheers
__________________
Serpent S411 4.0 13.5T D4
Kyosho V-ONE S3, RB Rota-Start
Sanwa MT4S
Les is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2014, 03:43 PM   #512
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pole Position
Posts: 3,153
Trader Rating: 12 (93%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Les View Post
The bearings in my belt tensioner, the pivot point, haven't lasted long and the new ones have movement after 1 race meeting.
Cheers
Les you need to shim the shaft to remove any side to side movement and that will fix your issue.
__________________
Serpent 748 TQ | GIMAR Engines
Walter RC HObby | www.walterrchobby.com.au
BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
mrgsr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2014, 04:07 PM   #513
Les
Tech Addict
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 627
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Shims

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
Les you need to shim the shaft to remove any side to side movement and that will fix your issue.
Cheers thanks, in fact with the new bearings just fitted I decided to shim it, so hopefully all will be good.
__________________
Serpent S411 4.0 13.5T D4
Kyosho V-ONE S3, RB Rota-Start
Sanwa MT4S
Les is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 07:40 AM   #514
Tech Elite
 
Ray k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,982
Trader Rating: 46 (98%+)
Default

...

Last edited by Ray k; 05-26-2014 at 01:05 PM.
Ray k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2014, 02:12 PM   #515
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 569
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
Les you need to shim the shaft to remove any side to side movement and that will fix your issue.
Cool never thought it was a shimming issue, tried it and fixed !
speed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2014, 02:48 PM   #516
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 569
Default

Great testing / practice day.

So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.

Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.

We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.

THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
speed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 01:52 AM   #517
Tech Adept
 
RC-Netshop.dk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 182
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Great testing / practice day.

So lately we tested heavily the big bore and came to a conclusion after going back to normal shocks that even though our track is bumpy and most of the time very dirty i much more prefer the big bore with a step harder in front, it handles much nicer and consistent.

Today we went back testing and track was very bad so the good thing in these conditions is the impact of different setups and how to get the best mechanical grip.

We tested removing screws from the upper tray front side leaving two screws instead of the six upfront on the bulkhead - result a bit more steering and easy to drive, i removed the 2 screws that hold the rear bulk head to the 2 speed tower and i couldn't identify if it got better or not.

THAN i removed two screws from the rear graphite support part, the one where the brake cam is, obviously i had to remove the 2 screws opposite the brake cam, tried it and was very surprised of the new positive handling characteristics especially going hard out of a chicane and entering off power. My only concern is what impact re durability can this have on the car. Guys try it out!!!
Nice input my friend :-).... Will definitely try it out with the screws in the rear...

Br,

Niko
__________________
http://rc-netshop.dk/en/

Capricorn, REDS, CRC, Orcan, JP GIMAR, Ielasi Tuned, Tesla, JQ, Sanwa
RC-Netshop.dk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 01:20 PM   #518
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 569
Default

My question to you guys is the following, which will generate more flex the one piece engine mount or the two piece heavy engine mount.

I know that because it's split hence you should get more flex but don't really know what material is it made from hence if material is harder than aluminium than will it reduce flex?
speed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2014, 10:03 PM   #519
Tech Master
 
gsxr0311's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Francisco CA
Posts: 1,205
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

I would say the two piece mount. If you buy one it is made from brass. If you don't want the weight you can always cut the aluminum one into two pieces.
__________________
Special Thanks to: RC Target, Ko Propo USA, O'Donnell glow plugs, A Main Hobbies-SWORKz USA, R1 Wurks, and Absolute Hobbies.

Capricorn: LAB-C802, LAB E801, LAB-C03, TE03, and P01 235mm. SWORKz: S350BK1 EVO II, S104EVO, S12-1M. Top Rebel 12.
gsxr0311 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2014, 01:31 AM   #520
Tech Elite
 
Bundy_Bear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 2,617
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Diff Gasket

Hi

Just wondering if their is any difference between the following diff gaskets 172407k and 172407?

Thanks in advance!
Andrew
__________________
MissMooRC Racing
Find us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/missmoorc
Bundy_Bear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2014, 04:32 AM   #521
Les
Tech Addict
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 627
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hi Bundy, the orange oring 172407K are for Kevlar diffs, the 172407 black oring are for carbon diff, though carbon I think is 172407g.
Cheers
__________________
Serpent S411 4.0 13.5T D4
Kyosho V-ONE S3, RB Rota-Start
Sanwa MT4S
Les is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2014, 03:51 PM   #522
Tech Elite
 
Bundy_Bear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 2,617
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Les View Post
Hi Bundy, the orange oring 172407K are for Kevlar diffs, the 172407 black oring are for carbon diff, though carbon I think is 172407g.
Cheers
Les,

Thanks, so i take it they aren't interchangeable between the three types of diffs? Reason is i have the Kevlar diffs and didn't see the kevlar o-rings on Capricorn Australia's website only the ones for the original diffs.

Thanks
Andrew
__________________
MissMooRC Racing
Find us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/missmoorc
Bundy_Bear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2014, 06:36 PM   #523
Les
Tech Addict
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 627
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Don't think they interchangeable not 100% sure! I just purchased the 172407K delron orings from Cap Aussie, they had them in stock.
Regards
__________________
Serpent S411 4.0 13.5T D4
Kyosho V-ONE S3, RB Rota-Start
Sanwa MT4S
Les is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2014, 06:54 PM   #524
Tech Elite
 
Bundy_Bear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 2,617
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Les View Post
Don't think they interchangeable not 100% sure! I just purchased the 172407K delron orings from Cap Aussie, they had them in stock.
Regards
No worries, will email Peter.

Thanks
Andrew
__________________
MissMooRC Racing
Find us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/missmoorc
Bundy_Bear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2014, 11:11 AM   #525
Tech Master
 
DS Motorsport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,437
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Personally I don't bother using the O-rings, they can cause a leakage or need regular replacement.

I make my own O-ring using liquid gasket, liquid sealant.
Basically I fill up the area where the O-ring normally sits with liquid sealant (Loctite 598).
First clean the diff housing very well, you want the gasket to stick to the housing.
The cap, or flange you want to leave a bit oiled.
This way the gasket doesn't stick to the flange and can be left in place.
I've opened up diffs 10+ times without replacing the liquid gasket.
__________________
P1-RC.com
DS Motorsport is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bartolina pambihira Singapore R/C Racers 21951 03-22-2017 01:58 AM
Capricorn LAB-C01 Korey Harbke Nitro On-Road 2059 07-16-2013 09:12 AM
How many RC's do you own???? Telengard Electric On-Road 127 02-22-2011 12:52 PM
High Performance Nitro MassiveMods Australian Racing 1318 03-12-2009 03:52 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:58 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net