Lets see and hear about your Kyosho GT cars
10-05-2011, 06:16 PM
#1
Lets see and hear about your Kyosho GT cars
Im looking to build one from scratch. Going to get a Dragons chassis maybe and build it from there. A GT1
I run the spec class just curious to see what kinda parts guys are putting in them. What aluminum parts, diff pinion and gear, chassis. If will be used for racing only. And weight will be looked at with every piece that goes on the car.
Ive run a DM1 for three years and it is fast, I just want to change and build something new.
Thanks
I run the spec class just curious to see what kinda parts guys are putting in them. What aluminum parts, diff pinion and gear, chassis. If will be used for racing only. And weight will be looked at with every piece that goes on the car.
Ive run a DM1 for three years and it is fast, I just want to change and build something new.
Thanks
10-06-2011, 12:04 AM
#2
I think you'lle be disappointed with IGT1 since it's not a real onroad car.
It's good for beginner because of easiness but not for an experienced driver.
I like my kyosho's but I don't see why you should make the switch.
If you have ever seen a buggy, you've seen IGT.
One good thing is the versatility of the car; it goes on both on and off road (rally). I'm using 14/18 with buggy rally tires. I have modified the IGW008 tranny to fit the GT1 (it's meant for the GT2) using the shaft from the original gearbox (GTW26). With the same gearing I can also use real GT tires on track.
I have one goodie which is the t-bone racing rear bumper.
Otherwise pretty stock, except for the from universals and a front torque bar.
Electronics and motor changed, too.
I have several body choices for on road and off road/rally (the Subaru).
It's good for beginner because of easiness but not for an experienced driver.
I like my kyosho's but I don't see why you should make the switch.
If you have ever seen a buggy, you've seen IGT.
One good thing is the versatility of the car; it goes on both on and off road (rally). I'm using 14/18 with buggy rally tires. I have modified the IGW008 tranny to fit the GT1 (it's meant for the GT2) using the shaft from the original gearbox (GTW26). With the same gearing I can also use real GT tires on track.
I have one goodie which is the t-bone racing rear bumper.
Otherwise pretty stock, except for the from universals and a front torque bar.
Electronics and motor changed, too.
I have several body choices for on road and off road/rally (the Subaru).
10-06-2011, 04:57 PM
#3
I think you'lle be disappointed with IGT1 since it's not a real onroad car.
It's good for beginner because of easiness but not for an experienced driver.
I like my kyosho's but I don't see why you should make the switch.
If you have ever seen a buggy, you've seen IGT.
One good thing is the versatility of the car; it goes on both on and off road (rally). I'm using 14/18 with buggy rally tires. I have modified the IGW008 tranny to fit the GT1 (it's meant for the GT2) using the shaft from the original gearbox (GTW26). With the same gearing I can also use real GT tires on track.
I have one goodie which is the t-bone racing rear bumper.
Otherwise pretty stock, except for the from universals and a front torque bar.
Electronics and motor changed, too.
I have several body choices for on road and off road/rally (the Subaru).
It's good for beginner because of easiness but not for an experienced driver.
I like my kyosho's but I don't see why you should make the switch.
If you have ever seen a buggy, you've seen IGT.
One good thing is the versatility of the car; it goes on both on and off road (rally). I'm using 14/18 with buggy rally tires. I have modified the IGW008 tranny to fit the GT1 (it's meant for the GT2) using the shaft from the original gearbox (GTW26). With the same gearing I can also use real GT tires on track.
I have one goodie which is the t-bone racing rear bumper.
Otherwise pretty stock, except for the from universals and a front torque bar.
Electronics and motor changed, too.
I have several body choices for on road and off road/rally (the Subaru).
Theres got to be more
10-06-2011, 05:43 PM
#4
Im looking to build one from scratch. Going to get a Dragons chassis maybe and build it from there. A GT1
I run the spec class just curious to see what kinda parts guys are putting in them. What aluminum parts, diff pinion and gear, chassis. If will be used for racing only. And weight will be looked at with every piece that goes on the car.
Ive run a DM1 for three years and it is fast, I just want to change and build something new.
Thanks
I run the spec class just curious to see what kinda parts guys are putting in them. What aluminum parts, diff pinion and gear, chassis. If will be used for racing only. And weight will be looked at with every piece that goes on the car.
Ive run a DM1 for three years and it is fast, I just want to change and build something new.
Thanks
10-06-2011, 05:46 PM
#5
Use the Kyosho 777 chassis set. It's much lighter than the dragon chassis, and way way stronger. Use titanium hinge pins, titanium turnbuckles, you can dremel the cross supports out of your lower A-arms. Use high voltage servos with a lipo. Get the cnc'd front knuckles, the stock ones have a tendency to strip out. Use the 777 straight cut ring and pinion gears. Lightweight chassic braces. There's more, but that's what I can think of off the top of my head.
10-06-2011, 06:49 PM
#6
http://www.infernosonly.com/ should have all the parts you need. You can cross refference the parts with other online hobby shops like amainhobbies.com for pricing. Also get intouch with the guys in the Los Magnificos thread. They all run Kyoshos and know just about every part by part # you'll need...
10-06-2011, 06:59 PM
#7
Tech Adept
Don't tell this fastpete guy anything, he is already to fast with his DM1.
10-06-2011, 07:01 PM
#9
http://www.infernosonly.com/ should have all the parts you need. You can cross refference the parts with other online hobby shops like amainhobbies.com for pricing. Also get intouch with the guys in the Los Magnificos thread. They all run Kyoshos and know just about every part by part # you'll need...
10-06-2011, 07:08 PM
#10
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Chassis-MP777
That's the chassis. You'll also need the 777 steering drag link, and 777 upper plate. You can use Kyosho, King Headz, or your choice of aftermarket for those. The only other thing you need to do is dremel out the hole for the 2 speed to fit in, seeing as this chassis was originally designed for a center diff.
You can also the 777 steering bell cranks, however not mandatory. The 777 bell cranks use bearings instead of bushings.
KYOIFW338, also these are the hard servo save spring cranks too.
That's the chassis. You'll also need the 777 steering drag link, and 777 upper plate. You can use Kyosho, King Headz, or your choice of aftermarket for those. The only other thing you need to do is dremel out the hole for the 2 speed to fit in, seeing as this chassis was originally designed for a center diff.
You can also the 777 steering bell cranks, however not mandatory. The 777 bell cranks use bearings instead of bushings.
KYOIFW338, also these are the hard servo save spring cranks too.
10-06-2011, 11:07 PM
#11
Well if you want to build the car completely from ground up then there are choices...
Local racers here use the ST-R chassis flattened and have front arms and caster blocks from either DM1 or some Italian RG car to minimize the front caster
Lighweight universal drive shafts from MP777 or MP9 in each corner
Diffs.. you can put Ti shafts inside and ligthweight outdrives for example
IGW008 tranny or Evolva modified
But DM1 should be as good as this, especially if you put all carbon parts incl. chassis to get it lighter....
It ain't gonna be cheap necessarily, but if you've got the ca$h...
Local racers here use the ST-R chassis flattened and have front arms and caster blocks from either DM1 or some Italian RG car to minimize the front caster
Lighweight universal drive shafts from MP777 or MP9 in each corner
Diffs.. you can put Ti shafts inside and ligthweight outdrives for example
IGW008 tranny or Evolva modified
But DM1 should be as good as this, especially if you put all carbon parts incl. chassis to get it lighter....
It ain't gonna be cheap necessarily, but if you've got the ca$h...
Last edited by MikaR; 10-07-2011 at 06:11 AM.
10-07-2011, 10:04 AM
#12
10-07-2011, 03:59 PM
#13
Tech Initiate
pete,are you trying to get in with the closet crowd now
i here strange things happen in that private pit room
i here strange things happen in that private pit room
10-07-2011, 07:13 PM
#15
Well if you want to build the car completely from ground up then there are choices...
Local racers here use the ST-R chassis flattened and have front arms and caster blocks from either DM1 or some Italian RG car to minimize the front caster
Lighweight universal drive shafts from MP777 or MP9 in each corner
Diffs.. you can put Ti shafts inside and ligthweight outdrives for example
IGW008 tranny or Evolva modified
But DM1 should be as good as this, especially if you put all carbon parts incl. chassis to get it lighter....
It ain't gonna be cheap necessarily, but if you've got the ca$h...
Local racers here use the ST-R chassis flattened and have front arms and caster blocks from either DM1 or some Italian RG car to minimize the front caster
Lighweight universal drive shafts from MP777 or MP9 in each corner
Diffs.. you can put Ti shafts inside and ligthweight outdrives for example
IGW008 tranny or Evolva modified
But DM1 should be as good as this, especially if you put all carbon parts incl. chassis to get it lighter....
It ain't gonna be cheap necessarily, but if you've got the ca$h...
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