NT1 DIFFS in RRR?
10-03-2011, 06:55 PM
#1
NT1 DIFFS in RRR?
Can the guy that did this mod please post here the entire process, and also did this mod actually improve the kyosho??
10-04-2011, 03:13 AM
#3
Sorry to deviate the subject but it's a little bit easier to change to the R4 diffs.If not mistaken the rear is drop-in and the front needs a different bearing or a insert to change the diameter and fit the R4 bearing(the R4 diff bearing is 10x15x4 and the RRR diff bearing is 12x18x4 if not mistaken)to use the R4 smaller bearing you have to make a 15x18x4 insert so it fits the R4 bearing and the RRR eccentric and voila.
10-04-2011, 03:25 PM
#6
10-05-2011, 10:35 PM
#7
Tech Adept
Go with the R4 diffs, I have just dropped them into mine, all you need is of course the parts for the diffs but also the following
2x 10mmx12mmx4mm bearing inserts- I got mine made by an engineer on a cnc lathe, they have a flange in one end and in essence decrease the internal diameter to 10mm for the R4 diffs, the flange is only about .5mm so doesn't affect anything.
2x 15mmx12mmx2mm shims, again made by the engineer on the lathe, these are for the rear as the R4 bulkhead is narrower than the RRR, these space the bearings out by 2mm either side for a snug fit in the RRR.
Finally you also need the R4 dogbones as since the bulkheads and diff are narrower in the rear the dogbones are longer.
With all these parts you are away laughing, the rear diff shimming isn't too much to get your head around just remove the play by shimming both internally and externally of the diff, not rocket science, and now the the updated parts it shouldn't cause a problem.
2x 10mmx12mmx4mm bearing inserts- I got mine made by an engineer on a cnc lathe, they have a flange in one end and in essence decrease the internal diameter to 10mm for the R4 diffs, the flange is only about .5mm so doesn't affect anything.
2x 15mmx12mmx2mm shims, again made by the engineer on the lathe, these are for the rear as the R4 bulkhead is narrower than the RRR, these space the bearings out by 2mm either side for a snug fit in the RRR.
Finally you also need the R4 dogbones as since the bulkheads and diff are narrower in the rear the dogbones are longer.
With all these parts you are away laughing, the rear diff shimming isn't too much to get your head around just remove the play by shimming both internally and externally of the diff, not rocket science, and now the the updated parts it shouldn't cause a problem.
10-11-2011, 01:39 PM
#8
Go with the R4 diffs, I have just dropped them into mine, all you need is of course the parts for the diffs but also the following
2x 10mmx12mmx4mm bearing inserts- I got mine made by an engineer on a cnc lathe, they have a flange in one end and in essence decrease the internal diameter to 10mm for the R4 diffs, the flange is only about .5mm so doesn't affect anything.
2x 15mmx12mmx2mm shims, again made by the engineer on the lathe, these are for the rear as the R4 bulkhead is narrower than the RRR, these space the bearings out by 2mm either side for a snug fit in the RRR.
Finally you also need the R4 dogbones as since the bulkheads and diff are narrower in the rear the dogbones are longer.
With all these parts you are away laughing, the rear diff shimming isn't too much to get your head around just remove the play by shimming both internally and externally of the diff, not rocket science, and now the the updated parts it shouldn't cause a problem.
2x 10mmx12mmx4mm bearing inserts- I got mine made by an engineer on a cnc lathe, they have a flange in one end and in essence decrease the internal diameter to 10mm for the R4 diffs, the flange is only about .5mm so doesn't affect anything.
2x 15mmx12mmx2mm shims, again made by the engineer on the lathe, these are for the rear as the R4 bulkhead is narrower than the RRR, these space the bearings out by 2mm either side for a snug fit in the RRR.
Finally you also need the R4 dogbones as since the bulkheads and diff are narrower in the rear the dogbones are longer.
With all these parts you are away laughing, the rear diff shimming isn't too much to get your head around just remove the play by shimming both internally and externally of the diff, not rocket science, and now the the updated parts it shouldn't cause a problem.
how much weight did you save with these r4 diffs?did you use the carbon gears or steel ones?the overall cost?
10-13-2011, 07:59 PM
#10
Tech Adept
Didn't weigh them, but there is a huge difference. As far as the cost is concerned it wasn't to bad, the parts are cheap, you just need a few of them to complete the change over,running the rig this weekend with the new diffs in so will let you know what I think.
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