TurboLancer

Ok I got the HPI running Bless it the lol, BUT It is very rough sounding, Sluggish and doesnt seem to want to shift into second. LOL Its quite funny actually cause I am just full of bad luck....Well I said i was going to release alot of stress with my CEN CT4-s and well I created more...lol Not really actually it was an easy fix....I flipped it 8 times......4 on concrete and 4 of grass. SO when I got to the car I had a busted wheel brace and dirt and grass in all four rims......Just as soon as I got home with new batteries for my Ignitor The HPI Started right up, I tweaked it to run alittle smoother but its still spuddering and sluggish at low speeds and wont shift in high speed. Arent you supposed to hear it shift? Or am I crazy?
Ok the term....pinch bolt i got from that site you sent me lol http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/Pro...84-ART.asp?pg=1
The reason I guess it flipped was cause I was trying to get the CT4S to shift into second.....which it didnt, what could that be from? The engine is the NX-15 and the HPI is the 15fe I slapped a two speed on it on the HPI, so I may have did something wrong to the HPI to where it didnt shift. So The High speed needle is the bigger one that activates the gas flow from the tank and the Low speed needle is also called the Idle screw?

If I could hug you I would lol thanks for helping me....lol Im sure I have alot more to endure....

Javen13

the car may not be shifting because the 2-speed works on rpm and you car may be too rich to genarate enough in order for the 2-speed to kick in. check your needle settings and go back to the factory setting usually about 3 or so turns out. once you do that lean the car out and 1/8 or a turn at a time until it shifts if its very boggy and spits out a ton of fuel its too rich. the low speed and idle screw are two separtate things. hope this helps
-justin

TurboLancer

Well it kinda helped...Now I really dont know where the Low speed needle is. The Hpi runs but it is spuddery, hesitent, smokey. Its hard to explain. I guess I will reset it again. Then Maybe itll smoothen out......
AND GUESS WHAT!!!!!!!! I FOUND A HOBBY SHOP IN MY CITY!!! WAHHOOOOOO....bad thing is they charge 12 an hour to fix cars lol....

mop_iko

go to http://www.rctek.com

this is a ONE of the ONE-STOP-FULL-OF-INFO-WEB-SITE.

you will love this site.

get your mouse cliking and happy reading.

good luck for your ENGINE tuning.
and BURN that LHS..... LOL joking...


mop

TurboLancer

Ok I have both cars running still but I believe I am eating plugs still. I can get a couple runs out of them but eventually the car wont stay running unless I leave the Ignitor on. it'll start but when I take off the Ignitor it runs for like 10 seconds the max and then shuts off. SO then I leaned it out thinking its running to rich and the plugs are blowing out, but then it runs extremely out. So thenI rich it up alittle and blows plugs......I CANT WIN!!! AAAAAARRGH!! (as he smiles frustatedly)


Also just a stupid question: Is it posible to make a rear or front wheel drive car? Is it safe? I assume you just take out one or the other dogbones.....Let me know if itll hurt me.....

vtl1180ny

Sell them and go electric.....

mop_iko

dont disturb him.... LOL...

he is trying to learn the ART OF NITRO.... and I SALUTE HIM!!!!

NITRO TEACHES YOU PATIENCE...

i have been in NITRO for at least 1.5 yrs now... i still consider myself as a rookie with ENGINE TUNING... just trying to help a buddy with what i know....

and you dont disturb him... let him focus on HIS SOLUTION HOW TO RESOLVE HIS CURRENT ISSUE.... help him to start his engine... i know you have a TC3.... so if you have time.. pls help him...

for that i thank you!!!!


mop

and your chose... should be spelled CHOOSE

mop_iko

i assume you already have the NEW and FULLY CHARGED glow ignitor.... and you have NEW FRESH glow plug..(coz you changed them everytime!! LOL sorry.. its not funny... but cant help it!)...

i want to ask you... HOW OLD is your NITRO fuel?
how many %?
what number is your glow plug?
what is the tempreture at your place? COLD? HOT? degree?

answer these first...


mop

TrickPonYracing

iTrader: (2)

i am new to this forum but race nitro every weekend what kind of nitro gas do you use and what % thats first

TurboLancer

Ok...This thing is going good. I think I have the temp set correct on the HPI. I am running 20% Monster trinity thats not even a month old(but who knows how long it sat on the shelf). I may go Blue Thunder. I have the racers edge #5 plugs. I think its getting cold enough for me to switch. Not sure to what though. I am scared to know cause they arent cheap at my LHS. I did the drop of water test on it and it sat there for sec and then sizzled dry in like 3 seconds. Past three days its been between 60-70 degrees outside, but next several days itll be colder. I think I have the HPI running ok now, but its still not shifting, I even loosened the shifter screw. I may have to have the LHS take a look at it. My Ct4-s is f-ing rocken. That thing is incredibily FAST!!! So thats out of the way. Only thing for that car left is the new body and clean down and I have the body on the way and I do the clean down tomorrow after I do the chores my Girl gave me.


Dante`

TrickPonYracing

iTrader: (2)

20%is cool for a motor that has not been shimed for higher nitro

plug are like timing adjustments on a motor the colder the plug the higher the nitro you can go
plugs are allso used as a tuning tool they will dictate when and where the power band will come in and they are allso used to control detanation
all plug manufactures use diffrent numbers and nomacalture about the hot and cold plugs time and experiance will be your best teacher
when the plug is dead what dose the plug coils look like
are they distorted ?
are they missing
you might need a magnafine glass to see this

vtl1180ny

My first Nitro car was a cox contol line car in 1976.... Hated it then, still hate them now.... Yes, I own a shitload of nitro cars, if you can't beat them, join them.... I don't remember the last time I used one of my nitro's was....

TurboLancer

Actually from what I can tell...they look like they werent used lol. But yet when I take the ignitor off...the car shuts off.The plug in my Cen racing has been there for 2 weeks. And had been starter about 10 times in those two weeks. So like I said that car is fine now I guess. The HPI? Well Its still being a butt. Not shifting, running smooth after warm up and alittle tweaking. The HPI is also running just alittle hot I think, but as soon as I richen it up just a tad it starts spuddering and shuts off on me.

Just to add some humor on me in this post,.....I had bought a HPI Pro Glow plug ignitor, not to bad in price. Well heres where it gets funny....I get it and charge it for the recommended time and then go to use it and notice it didnt have a charge on the meter....well I call around to Tower Hobbies and HPI and ask whats up with it.....They couldnt tell me so they said send it back and they will replace it......Before I did I wanted to see if it atleast charged up...So I stuck it on the Plug and I notice then that thats where it tells you it has a charge...Im such an idiot....But in my defense the instructions on the package were in picture form, so only a caveman could understand it.

mstng87gt

one thing i think everyone is missing is the .15fe only has one needle (high speed needle) it is an economy motor and meant for beginners to get on the road fast although i think it does more bad then good. the high speed needle should be about 2 1/2 to 2 turns from bottom. but start with 3 turns out as a starting point. also the other screw you see is the idle screw that only adjusts your idle that is it. on the .15fe motors the front bearings go very fast and it leaks through. what you need to do is clean the chassis around the motor with some nitro spray or wipe it down very good with paper towels and then proceed to start the engine if you notice it is wet at the bottom of theengine where its is attached to the chassis when your trying to start the engine then the bearing is bad.
so start with

its to a point not worth it to fix the motor. if you have the cash buy a new motor. i can recommend the dynamite spd .12 great motor not a lot of hp but it makes the car move like hell with the 2 sp and it is ready to go out of the box very little tuning needed for it.

1. turn the high speed needle all the way in and then turn it out 3 full turns there is a little notch on the finger adjuster that should be your mark.

2.if it still gives you problems then check the bearing as stated above by cleaning and then checking for gass around the bottom of the engine.

3. if all else fails by a new engine. the .15fe does not stay leak free at all regardless of what you do it is a very cheap motor also check the head to make sure that it is tight as well.


the reason i mentioned everything above is i have an rs4 2 that went through the same problems not so much the glow plugs but with everything else.

mop_iko

that is what i think now...
ITS NOT THE GLOW IGNITOR
ITS NOT THE GLOW PLUG
ITS NOT THE FUEL
ITS NOT THE TUNING OF THE NEEDLE...

ITS THE ENGINE... hehehehe.... lucky you got an experience out of .15FE otherwise we will go round and round... i hope your explaination to our friend here is enough for him to detect the problem from the engine.

but after i read his 1st post in this thread... he said he JUST BREAK THE ENGINE in a PROPER WAY... so can a PROPERLY BROKED IN ENGINE can have bad front bearing leakage?

hmmmmmmmmmm... one more advice to TurboLancer... take a ride in your car to the LHS and spend that 12 bucks of yours ask your LHS help!!!!! LOL



mop