BILL BLAZE

I know im late in the game but i just got a my Mongoose as a first nitro tourer and wanted to know is the rear belt suppose to have that much slack or did I not find the hiden belt tensioner in the box and what are the two silver spikes for?

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

in stock form, the rear belt is a little loose. It doesn't really have that much effact on the drive train, if you want you can purchase a best tensioner for the rear.

the 2 silver spike is for balance measuring, ordinary people have little use of it except place it on the floar to hurt yourself

BILL BLAZE

Thanx Car Breaker

I also need to know what is the little silver rings for and that piece of graphite

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

the piece of graphite is a Rx mount or protector depend on how you use it. if you mount your Rx to the upper deck, then the graphice that come with chassis will be a protector, else you can mount your Rx on it to the chassis ( that was what I did when I was still driving a Mongoose)

the tiny metal ring ( i assume to be blue annodized, with 3mm inner hole and 5~6mm outer diameter) are spacer that allow you to mount the graphite to the chassis without the screw that come with it to be overly long . if the screw are overly long, it will go beyong the buttom of chassis and scretch the ground.

hope that helps

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

The silver rings go on the one way out drives to space them out.

BILL BLAZE

thanx for the info trust me I need all I can get.

I have another question, How do you setup the blade type sway bars? I understand they change stiffnes depending on the angle but when you first install them do you make sure they are in a sraight line across the chassis or do they rise in the middle? If you got pics that will help. Ive driven alot of off road and never been to a track that needed sway bars and now im going on road and Im looking for piano wire

rhazzed

Hey everyone,

I am looking to sell my brand new G4 Mongoose with a picco .12 engine and exhaust which are both brand new* as well. The car has NEVER been driven as it's not even fully assembled yet. I bought the kit brand new with the hopes of trying on-road, however, with my other hobbies and my off-road trucks, I have neither the time or money to invest into on-road at this time. I've been slowly assembling the car for weeks now and decided to just sell the car.

The car has NO electronics with it.
The car was bought in kit form and I had purchased a seperate brand new engine, muffler, and a aluminum brake lever. (I broke the stock plastic brake lever).
The G4 Mongoose kit is the updated/upgraded kit, Not the original. It has the hopups.

*I had mounted the engine when I bought it and started it for approximately
10 seconds. It was started on a bench, not in the car. It literally has about 5 drops of fuel through it. I still consider it brand new. The engine started up immediately and sounded PERFECT. I know you will love it. The engine will need to be broken in still.

All that is left to assemble is minor things like gas tank, antennea tube, servo mounts, tires, etc.. The bulk of the the car is fully assembled.

I can provide pictures of the car to those that are interested. Serious inquiries only please. I will sell the car to the first person with the money.

** AS A BONUS **
I am also including a brand new (unpainted) 200mm Protoform NEMESIS body for it.
I will also toss in the brand new can(s) of spray. I have a flourecent green can and the white backer for it.

I am asking $325 FIRM, and that includes FREE UPS GROUND shipping to anywhere in the continental US. Shipping insurance is extra if you want it. I can also ship it 2 day or 3 day air, but at your expense. Item will ship IMMEDIATELY after receipt of funds. I'll accept a check, money order, or payment via PAYPAL. Item will not ship until funds have been verified (if paying by check/echeck/money order).

You'll be very happy with this car and I will do whatever I can to make this deal right.

I have great eBay references and i'm

rhazzed

Price reduced to $300 and still includes UPS ground shiping within the US only

The only thing left to assemble now is the tires (4 arrow tires included), fuel lines, antenna tube, and the electronics of your choice (not included!)

dnitro

The clutch weights on my clutch keeps "sticking" when I rev the engine and doesn't go back to normal position. I have to pop them back in the flywheel. Sometimes the weights stick out so much that the clutch remains engaged even if I let go of the throttle, and when I apply the brakes, the engine dies because the clutch is still semi-engaged. The clutchbell play is about .5mm. The clutch nut is tightened to 1mm and I even tightened it to 1.3mm and the weights still stick. I have a new set of weights but it does the same thing. My buddys clutch does the same thing. Any recommendations?

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

smooth out/dull all the place that contact with the weight (flywheel and the metal ring on top of the weight). geth this http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...0-4&type=store
then the problem should be gone

afm

Tips on Centax:
The end bell of the centax should float. You need to make it float about .5 to .6 mm. If it’s to tight, when the clutch heats up it will expand closing the clearance and the engine will bog and over heat. Use the spring to adjust the engagement point. it should not engage until you get off idle always.

Open the holes in the shoe slightly if you experience the clutch not disengaging at high speed when you let off the throttle.

The kit spring was designed to be used with rubber tires. If the track is very lo-bite the red spring is fine without the brass flyweights on the centrifugal shoes. If the track has excessive traction the yellow spring can be used.
The red spring is a little too soft, because when you finally tighten it to the proper adjustment, the spring is smashed and becomes coil bound and this is what makes it slip. The orange spring allows you to run it with the adjustment nut flush with the end of the threads and allows it to be free without coil bind. Basically if you have to tighten the spring down so far as there are 4 or 5 threads showing to get the engagement, you are looking at a spring that is not stiff enough, and you should try the next spring stiffer until maybe 1 or 2 threads are showing.
We use the orange spring and flyweights with the brass weights just about everywhere with no problems. The orange spring is good 90 percent of the time.
Clutch setup is a science all to itself and really comes down to driving style and personal preference.

Clutch Fundamentals:

1) Make sure your clutch shoe itself slide up and down on the flywheel pins with absolutely NO BINDING. If the clutch shoe hangs up when it is pushed out on acceleration or deceleration it will throw the flyweights or cause them to jam. Solution...... Make sure you check that the clutch shoe slides up and down on the pins freely. If you have to......ream out the clutch shoe holes LIGHTLY with a drill bit. Just so it slides freely.

2) Make sure you know how to check your endplay correctly. .3mm to .6mm is the correct endplay. Not enough endplay will cause the clutch to bog and overheat when the clutch heats up during running. This will also glaze over the clutch shoe.

3) Make sure you measure the clutch spring tension correctly. Also make your adjustments in small increments (quarter turns on the clutch nut) Tuning holes in the clutch bell are great for experienced tuners, but newcomers should do it manually until they really understand clutch adjustment.

4) The large Pressure plate (K1410-4) works better than the stock plate. It has a larger surface area and rigidity. The larger surface area gives more area for flyweight travel and positive return.

Tips about the flywheel:
Here is the issue and how to fix it the clutch hang issue.
The lip on the flywheel is sharp and hangs on the flyweights. Rounding this edge with a small file will fix the issue. It does not take much material removal to fix it just take the edge off some. we did it while the engine was running with the clutch off but be careful. If you do it that way all you have to do is place a small file on the edge for a second or
two with the engine idling. otherwise you can remove the flywheel and do it by hand.

AFM

Motorman2

afm beat me to this one LOL

afm

Hi Dennis

Thanks to you and Ray's suggestions, which i have been compiling since day one of the G4.

AFM

4F1Racing

Good News...Looks like the conversion kit should be delivered to distributor by this wednesday or thursday. I will have mine in stock a couple days after that. I don't know exact pricing as yet but will let you guys know as soon as I find out. As most of you know, I will do my best for you guys...

Thanks for all your support!

Sam

4F1Racing

Let me make a post note to my above thread. Phenix Distributing was mis-informed about the delivery date of the conversions kits. TM now said it will be mid april and when Dennis received his invoice the conversion kits were indeed zeroed out.

However, Dennis will make up some kits from his spare parts and I will have them available as soon as he has them ready. Point being, if you want a conversion kit now rather than waiting for another month or so, please contact me asap. Obviously, these will be on a first come basis. Get a hold of me a [email protected]

Sam