ntrain42

iTrader: (33)

Hey folks, I've had an RS4 3 EVO sitting on the shelf now brand new and untouched for about a year. WIth most of my other projects done I decided I want to hop her up, but would like a bit of help from the folks with experience on this nitro roller. I decided this spring/summer Id take her out and start using her. This is my first nitro on road touring car so I was hoping I could get some help with the available hop ups.

So far all I have are some aluminum GPM A-arms(Yes I know aluminum bends, but this roller won't have issues with walls or curbs where it will be run)and will probably be getting some aluminum hubs and steering knuckles as well if they are available as well. My thinking is it will add a bit of weight down low and lower the CG just a bit.

Hop ups already on hand as well include Hitec HV 7954 steering servo and a HV 7940 throttle servo as well, along with a SPektrum SR3300T Telemetry reciever(Im using a Lipo RX pack)to monitor voltage and engine temps.


Engine hop up I believe I have picked out the O.S. 18TZ T nitro mill with the slide carb?(They make a rotary carb as well?)I believe this is the correct one. Its a rear exhaust engine so I believe I need HPI's optional header to fit correct?

Also will the HPI rotostarter work with this engine still and bolt up to it?

Other planned hop ups include HPI's aluminum shock set and their titanium turnbuckle upper arm set.

Any opinions or suggestions with the above so far?

Also I see HPI has an upgraded aluminum chassis,a bunch of CF parts(top deck,shock towers etc), suggestions on these?

Last, the drivetrain. HPI also has a 1 way diff available(worth it?)and some other drivetrain parts. This is where I want to make the RS4 as durable and rugged as possible, but I could use a helping hand here on what to grab.

Any help, suggestions, links etc appreciated. This RS4 won't ever be raced unfortunately(no tracks local to run nitro onroad ), but I would like to get the full potential out of this roller while I wait for my AE TC3 FT to get back in stock.

warnked

Ive upgraded my rs4 as far as i want and i chose to stay away from aluminum because of the weight. If you want to lower the CG than the carbon-fiber upper deck is a must because it lowers the batteries down to the chassis (below the receiver) but you need a flat receiver pack to make it work.

I would choose a smaller engine than the .18 to loose weight and because it doesn't take much to get this car going. Ive heard from others who got the hpi .18 ss that the car would twist under heavy acceleration from the torque. I plan on getting the .12 JL red dot sometime in the future (38000 rpm if i remember correctly).

The other most important upgrades: fiber disc brake, sway bar set, 2.4 ghz radio, turnbuckles (kudos on the titanium), and racing clutch....pick up some softer springs and the wider vintage tires for better traction also. Better servos will surely help too....i have yet to upgrade mine.

this site has tons of aftermarket parts for cheap! http://www.asiatees.com/model.php?HP...&model=RS4%203

kanslide

iTrader: (1)

these are great cars

warnked

hpi is a great company!

ntrain42

iTrader: (33)

OK, well so far I got these parts ordered:

A. Upgraded Super chassis(Thicker I think)
B. F/R CF towers
C. Carbon F/R/C gearboxes
D. Fiber brake pad
E. Upgraded racing clutch
F. GPM Aluminum A-arms
G. F/R swaybar set
H. HD shaft outdrive cups

Cant seem to find the titanium turnbuckle kit or CF upper deck, both these items are out of stock everywhere........unless someone knows a place that has em in stock?

Part number to the wider vintage tires?rims?

warnked

Don't overlook a fuel filter either.
31mm vintage rubber: HPI 102994
31mm vintage rims: HPI 3810 through 3814 for chrome rims: HPI 33473 through 33475 (all the 31mm rims have a 6mm offset and might look goofy with a narrow style body)
Google search the cf upper deck, other online stores have it.

Those CF gear boxes seem to be a great option, i think i'll have to get some.

ntrain42

iTrader: (33)

I run a 200mm body, not sure if that is considered narrow or not. Prefer a rim that will keep the stock "looks" in place(ie: rims/tires dont stick outside fenderwell). What offset of any should U use? Some of the "vintage" HPI rims have 0 offset.

warnked

the only vintage rims with 0 offset are 26mm wide. i believe there will be interference with the hubs and rim with a 31mm tread and 0 offset, that is why they do not make them. The only reason i suggested the vintage tires and rims was because they are 31mm wide instead of 26mm and the vintage rubber will only fit on the vintage rim.
200mm is the wide body.
With the 200mm body, get the 31mm/6mm offset for the rear and 26mm/0 offset upfront. i think this is what comes stock with the vintage models and it shouldn't look goofy ( I measured the gaps between the inside rear fender of my 200mm NSX body and edge of my 26mm tires and i dont think 31mm will peek out in the rear)
I have yet to get some 31mm tires and so this is all the advice I can give.

GTR35

Hi all new to the forum. Just in regards to the
Hpi high performance air filter #72175 seems to be discontinued.
Anyone know of a replacement number or another popular one. It's for
The T.30 engine also have tried towerhobbies and my local online stores
No luck

Any info would be much appreciated.
GTR35

Robotech

A few things...

The Super Chassis (upgraded chassis) is thicker and made out of a stronger/better aluminum (7075 in the upgraded chassis vs. 6065 for the stock). Well worth the money.

Don't bother with a front one-way. You're not racing and so far the only nitro car I've successfully ran with a front one way was the HPI Super Nitro...and it's a handful. For running around an open area, the stock gear diff with a really thick diff fluid (100,000 wt...no, not a typo) would be better as you retain braking ability.

Carbon Fiber is always helpful. The CF shock towers are stiffer thus giving you more "true" shock perfomance and the upperdeck helps the chassis resist flexing. (Don't really help CG all that much.)

Fiber disc brake is a must.

Engine, just about anything will work that's a small block. Rear exhaust will require a new header. The 3.0 powerplant isn't bad though (but if you're going to yank it and it's brand new let me know...may buy it off you...)

Bodies...200mm is "Wide" and 190mm is "Narrow" All Nitro TCs use 200 but some bodies will be slightly wider in the back for HPI's "vintage" offset tires for a more scale look.

And while we're talking tires, 31mm tires will not necessarily give you "more" traction. Traction comes from four things in a tire, contact patch size, weight on the tire, rubber compound, and tread design. Most 31mm tires are "sport" tires and their rubber compounds are designed to be hard enough to last some time but soft enough to give some traction. Most 24mm tires are race oriented so they provide maximum traction through a soft compound of rubber but at a cost in tire life.

When TCs first came out you had 26mm and 31mm tires. 31mm tires provided LESS traction since the cars weighed so little and the overall PSI of pressure put down on the wider tire was too little. 31mm tires all but disappeared. Then someone thought if 26 was better than 31, then 21mm tires would be better than 26. They were right (mainly because of the reduced weight) but cars started looking like they were riding around on 10-speed bike tires so ROAR mandated minimum width of tires would be 24mm.

I use to race my RS4 with 24mm tires in HPI's "R" compound series (20R, 23R, 27R, 33R, and 35R) and they worked much better than the harder compound 26mm tires. So if you're about performance, and run on clean, smooth pavement, look at the 24mm racing tires. If you want that vintage look, race on dirty parking lot surfaces, or will race that kind of body, the Vintage tires are perfect.

If the new engine is pull start, that will work over the roto start. I KNOW so many people are against pull starts because of "how hard" the engine is to start with them but I'm going to let you in on a little secret. If you tune the engine right, they'll start on a few pulls when cold and 1 or 2 when warmed up. Pull starts are great motivator because the pain in your arm will let you know you don't have it tuned right. LOL

HPI shocks...definatly go with the ones with the threaded shock bodies. All my cars have these and that's the way every shock should be made. Makes for easy ride height and tweak adjustments.

That's all I can think of for now. Have fun!

scooterman19

Where do you get this super chassis and I am changing my motor to a slide type carb....what do I need to do to make the linkage work properly....please all suggestions greatly appreciated