Clutch Nut
#1
Clutch Nut
Hello,
Having problems with my 733 clutch, the retaining nut that tensions the spring is unwinding during racing, the nut finish's up flush with the end of the crank thread and its running against the clutch bell, i have been spacing the bell out with shims as you do so its not dragging on the clutch bell.
Pain in the rear problem.
Any Idea's would be appreciated.
Les
Having problems with my 733 clutch, the retaining nut that tensions the spring is unwinding during racing, the nut finish's up flush with the end of the crank thread and its running against the clutch bell, i have been spacing the bell out with shims as you do so its not dragging on the clutch bell.
Pain in the rear problem.
Any Idea's would be appreciated.
Les
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Hello,
Having problems with my 733 clutch, the retaining nut that tensions the spring is unwinding during racing, the nut finish's up flush with the end of the crank thread and its running against the clutch bell, i have been spacing the bell out with shims as you do so its not dragging on the clutch bell.
Pain in the rear problem.
Any Idea's would be appreciated.
Les
Having problems with my 733 clutch, the retaining nut that tensions the spring is unwinding during racing, the nut finish's up flush with the end of the crank thread and its running against the clutch bell, i have been spacing the bell out with shims as you do so its not dragging on the clutch bell.
Pain in the rear problem.
Any Idea's would be appreciated.
Les
#3
what pre load are you running Les ? i think Rodney had this issue too, and the lack of preload he was using allowed it to unwind. if that is not the issue, you can use blue loctite and let it go off. the new flywheel nuts have a red coating on them, this tends to lock them on when wound up. can always ring me as well when you get stuck.
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Thanks Patto, had my first run at Brendale 2day awsome track, preload 1.1mm never had the problem before, the engine rotates opposite 2 the nut so you would think it impossible to unwind, it only takes about 5 laps then I notice the engine bog starting.Good mixture of car brands here. Only have red loctite will that do or should I buy some blue.
#5
How much endplay you have on the clutch?? Too much would would loosen clutch or delay clutch engagement. I never used loctite coz of contant ajusting. You get in correct you shouldn't have that problem.
#6
Also be sure that damages to the nut and the clutchbell (sticking out edges) are grinded away. They can be made when using a small pin through the clutchbell adjusting the nut
#7
Thanks, yes I tried minimal endplay and also generous endplay also swapped the clutch adjusting nut with one off another engine,it still unwound itself.
#9
#10
You didnt answer my question. I asked how much of endplay. You just told me minimum & maximum. Tell what the minimum measurement you obtained.
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
minimal means next to no end play, and generouse, i would presume around 0.4 ? either way, its not how the clutch is engaging initially, its when the clutch nut comes loose, less preload on the spring, then it becomes boggy.
the serpent flywheel nuts, come with a red coating on them, this is kind of like a thread locking compound. when you remove your clutch a few times, this tends to dissapear, and the wear on the threads it becomes not as tight as when new. so wear to thread, and the locking compound wearing away contributes to the problem. has nothing to do with end play.
But Les, as roelof suggested, make sure everything is smooth inside where it was spinning on the bell.
#12
#13
i dont think it really matters now. the situation should be sorted .
minimal means next to no end play, and generouse, i would presume around 0.4 ? either way, its not how the clutch is engaging initially, its when the clutch nut comes loose, less preload on the spring, then it becomes boggy.
the serpent flywheel nuts, come with a red coating on them, this is kind of like a thread locking compound. when you remove your clutch a few times, this tends to dissapear, and the wear on the threads it becomes not as tight as when new. so wear to thread, and the locking compound wearing away contributes to the problem. has nothing to do with end play.
But Les, as roelof suggested, make sure everything is smooth inside where it was spinning on the bell.
minimal means next to no end play, and generouse, i would presume around 0.4 ? either way, its not how the clutch is engaging initially, its when the clutch nut comes loose, less preload on the spring, then it becomes boggy.
the serpent flywheel nuts, come with a red coating on them, this is kind of like a thread locking compound. when you remove your clutch a few times, this tends to dissapear, and the wear on the threads it becomes not as tight as when new. so wear to thread, and the locking compound wearing away contributes to the problem. has nothing to do with end play.
But Les, as roelof suggested, make sure everything is smooth inside where it was spinning on the bell.
Cheers
#14
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
No worries Patto, the clutch has been disassembled quite a few times trying different engines so you are possibly correct with your theory, as I set the clutch up same as I always do, will try small amount of locktite till new flywheel nut arrives, test it at Bayside this weekend and post the result on this forum. Racing every weekend the Missus (pitcrew) loves it LOL
Cheers
Cheers
got the 733 ready, just have to change over the 966 now. back to nitro !
#15
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (10)
Bayside
No worries Patto, the clutch has been disassembled quite a few times trying different engines so you are possibly correct with your theory, as I set the clutch up same as I always do, will try small amount of locktite till new flywheel nut arrives, test it at Bayside this weekend and post the result on this forum. Racing every weekend the Missus (pitcrew) loves it LOL
Cheers
Cheers