Kyosho v-one rrr
#9601
Tech Regular
Regardless if I run 40's all round or 42's all round, the rear tyres are wearing down a lot more than the fronts. I can use the fronts for 2 heats and gets about 1mm of wear.
I true the tyres down to 60mm rear, 58mm front with 1-2mm front droop and 5-6mm rear droop.
The care setup is stock otherwise, with 2 deg camber on the front and 3 on the back.
Any reason why Im getting heaps more tyre wear on the rears? Can I get rid of this with another setup?
I true the tyres down to 60mm rear, 58mm front with 1-2mm front droop and 5-6mm rear droop.
The care setup is stock otherwise, with 2 deg camber on the front and 3 on the back.
Any reason why Im getting heaps more tyre wear on the rears? Can I get rid of this with another setup?
I normally run 42 fronts and 45 rears from Jaco. Even if the track doesn't have a ton of traction it is worth trying. The harder tire doesn't flex as much and can make the car feel more locked in.
#9602
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Even though it's a lot of fun to drive..... if your car is loose out of the corners you could be just burning the back tires off. Have you tried running 40 fronts and 42 rears? This will help the tires wear more evenly and keep the car balanced throughout your runs. Does your track have good traction?
I normally run 42 fronts and 45 rears from Jaco. Even if the track doesn't have a ton of traction it is worth trying. The harder tire doesn't flex as much and can make the car feel more locked in.
I normally run 42 fronts and 45 rears from Jaco. Even if the track doesn't have a ton of traction it is worth trying. The harder tire doesn't flex as much and can make the car feel more locked in.
Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???
I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
#9603
Our track is high grip as they spray VHT. Ive always used the same shore front and rear, I have tried both 40 and 42 all round (I use ZAC tyres), the 42's dont wear as much but still wear out.
Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???
I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???
I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
#9604
Our track is high grip as they spray VHT. Ive always used the same shore front and rear, I have tried both 40 and 42 all round (I use ZAC tyres), the 42's dont wear as much but still wear out.
Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???
I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
Actually, yes, my car is a bit loose on power coming out of some corners of the track (a fast S section) and after my last 20min final the front tyres were flat (which is good) but the rears were coning a fair bit on the outside (which is bad) so I was told to go to 4deg camber on the rears so they wear out flat or even cone towards the inside - this could solve the loose out of coners???
I will try 4deg camber on the rears, maybe this will get rid of the loose on power out of corners and hence resolve the wear on the rears.
Take a look at your camber rise - the length of your camber link. It affects dynamic camber - versus the static camber you dial in on the setup board.
Also, what body are you running? Some are more loose out of the corners than others.
#9605
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Im running a Protoform Mazda 6 shell.
#9606
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
The length of the camber links were done as per the manual i.e. 6mm gap between the ball ends then adjusted them on using my setup board to 3deg. So by setting 3deg on a setup board may not really be 3mm? Will it be better to use a camber gauge instead?
Im running a Protoform Mazda 6 shell.
Im running a Protoform Mazda 6 shell.
#9607
http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/camber.html
Some times I get my RRRs mixed up. The RRR Evo and non-Evo with the VZW207 option part allow you to change the camber link length. KM Group also has a rear camber plate that allows you to change the position and length of the camber link.
If you know another RRR owner that uses a different body style, perhaps you can run a few laps with it to see the difference.
Last edited by rmdhawaii; 09-18-2007 at 10:42 PM. Reason: "length of the camber link" - not "length of the camber plate"
#9608
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I apologize for any confusion I may have caused. You don't need to buy a camber guage. This might help explain things a little bit better:
http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/camber.html
Some times I get my RRRs mixed up. The RRR Evo and non-Evo with the VZW207 option part allow you to change the camber link length. KM Group also has a rear camber plate that allows you to change the position and length of the camber plate.
If you know another RRR owner that uses a different body style, perhaps you can run a few laps with it to see the difference.
http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/camber.html
Some times I get my RRRs mixed up. The RRR Evo and non-Evo with the VZW207 option part allow you to change the camber link length. KM Group also has a rear camber plate that allows you to change the position and length of the camber plate.
If you know another RRR owner that uses a different body style, perhaps you can run a few laps with it to see the difference.
- HIGHER camber link = more on-power steering (Best for smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners)
- LOWER camber link = less on-power steering (Best for quick direction change tracks)
I dont have those option parts so I cannot change the length of the camber links. But you have 2 holes to chose from to screw in the camber links - upper and lower. Isnt this the same thing?
#9609
From that link you provided:
- HIGHER camber link = more on-power steering (Best for smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners)
- LOWER camber link = less on-power steering (Best for quick direction change tracks)
I dont have those option parts so I cannot change the length of the camber links. But you have 2 holes to chose from to screw in the camber links - upper and lower. Isnt this the same thing?
- HIGHER camber link = more on-power steering (Best for smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners)
- LOWER camber link = less on-power steering (Best for quick direction change tracks)
I dont have those option parts so I cannot change the length of the camber links. But you have 2 holes to chose from to screw in the camber links - upper and lower. Isnt this the same thing?
I remember reading something about using more than 3 degrees camber a while back, but couldn't remember where. I finally found it. It's in the XRAY T2 '007 setup guide. Not quite sure how it applies to nitro, as this is the only document that I've ever seen with this advice, but it's certainly something to take into consideration.
Check the diameters of the inner and outer edges of each tire after each run. Pay particular attention to the side of the car that wears the tires down the fastest as this side will shoulder the greatest amount of cornering forces for any given track. Treat both front and rear tire pairs separately, even if they are the same compound. If either tires outer edges within a front or rear pair have a smaller diameter than their inner edges, then increase the static camber in 0.5° increments, rotate the tires from left to right and track test them again. Keep increasing the static camber until the tires wear evenly flat on the front, and one or both of the rear tires wear just a little bit more on their inside edges (no more than 0.1mm after two or more runs). If you follow these steps and reach -3.0° camber on a set and one or both of them are still wearing the outside edge, then you need to increase the amount of negative camber rise on the outside wheel as the suspension compresses during cornering. This is accomplished through shortening the camber links by moving the inner pivot point to an outer position using the XRAY Quick Roll Centers™ adjustment. If you are already using the outer holes, then you can use shims between the outer pivot ball joints and the hubs to raise them up so that the camber link rods slant downward from the outside in towards the center of the car. Slanting the camber links also increases negative camber rise. However, increasing the slant angle of the camber links will raise the roll center at that end of the car as well.
Hope this helps.
#9610
I battled for ages to nail down the rear end of my RRR. What finally did it was to move the camber link to the "IN" ....or "Lower" hole. You called it lower ...on the setup sheet it's described as "IN". This, you will notice, will make your camber link slightly longer and will allow the rear to roll more ...thus providing more grip.
I made the change after looking at a bunch of team driver setups sheets ...ALL of them run the car with the camber link set to the "IN" position. Try it ...I don't think you will ever go back.
Also ...you might find the Parma and/or Stratus 3.1 bodies will further calm the rear ...at the expense of some steering ....but that' usually not a problem with the RRR.
Oh ...if you make the camber link change, you will have to shave some material off the ballends that are closest to the bulkheads ...the steeper angle will make them bind
I made the change after looking at a bunch of team driver setups sheets ...ALL of them run the car with the camber link set to the "IN" position. Try it ...I don't think you will ever go back.
Also ...you might find the Parma and/or Stratus 3.1 bodies will further calm the rear ...at the expense of some steering ....but that' usually not a problem with the RRR.
Oh ...if you make the camber link change, you will have to shave some material off the ballends that are closest to the bulkheads ...the steeper angle will make them bind
#9611
I battled for ages to nail down the rear end of my RRR. What finally did it was to move the camber link to the "IN" ....or "Lower" hole. You called it lower ...on the setup sheet it's described as "IN". This, you will notice, will make your camber link slightly longer and will allow the rear to roll more ...thus providing more grip.
I made the change after looking at a bunch of team driver setups sheets ...ALL of them run the car with the camber link set to the "IN" position. Try it ...I don't think you will ever go back.
Also ...you might find the Parma and/or Stratus 3.1 bodies will further calm the rear ...at the expense of some steering ....but that' usually not a problem with the RRR.
Oh ...if you make the camber link change, you will have to shave some material off the ballends that are closest to the bulkheads ...the steeper angle will make them bind
I made the change after looking at a bunch of team driver setups sheets ...ALL of them run the car with the camber link set to the "IN" position. Try it ...I don't think you will ever go back.
Also ...you might find the Parma and/or Stratus 3.1 bodies will further calm the rear ...at the expense of some steering ....but that' usually not a problem with the RRR.
Oh ...if you make the camber link change, you will have to shave some material off the ballends that are closest to the bulkheads ...the steeper angle will make them bind
#9612
I actually removed the spacer when I made the change ...I was very conscious of having TOO MUCH roll. I also use the rollbar to make sure things do not go too far. Ofourse ...springs and dampening can also help. Still, you make some good points ...I still have quite a few areas to fine tune on the car.
#9613
#9614
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
thanks for the advice guys.
I now understand, I had a look at the rear camber camber links and they are a certain length in OUT and when you put them into the IN hole it moves the entire knuckle up increasing the camber and to keep 3deg camber you have to "lengthen" the camber link to move the knuckle down.
The question now is, do you have:
- 3 or 4deg camber in IN position
- 3 or 4deg camber in OUT position
I guess the best way is to try them both
I now understand, I had a look at the rear camber camber links and they are a certain length in OUT and when you put them into the IN hole it moves the entire knuckle up increasing the camber and to keep 3deg camber you have to "lengthen" the camber link to move the knuckle down.
The question now is, do you have:
- 3 or 4deg camber in IN position
- 3 or 4deg camber in OUT position
I guess the best way is to try them both
#9615
i have 3 d's in mine didnt relize someone had such a close name and austin i am ready are u