Kyosho v-one rrr
08-26-2007, 08:23 AM
#9572
08-26-2007, 11:21 AM
#9574
08-26-2007, 11:34 AM
#9575
Don't really tune to temps. Some engines I have never put a temp gun on. One thing our team manager has been doing regarding temps is tuning by temp change. Warm the engine and tune it to run well with some visible smoke. Temp it. Run some more, then temp it again. What he looks for is the change. IF the temp continues to rise eventually the engine will lean bog. Thats too lean. He looks for it to stabilize. We just want it to run as fast as possible, without it getting so hot that the motor lays over near the end of a tank, or eating plugs. Lots of things will have an effect on the engine temps so I don't want to put a number to tune to, but I would say in the 250-280F would be a general area. Performance (good/bad) will determine what the right temp is. If it runs fast (not too rich), doesn't eat plugs, doesn't pit the piston or button, and doesn't lean bog, it is tuned correctly.
08-26-2007, 01:13 PM
#9576
Don't really tune to temps. Some engines I have never put a temp gun on. One thing our team manager has been doing regarding temps is tuning by temp change. Warm the engine and tune it to run well with some visible smoke. Temp it. Run some more, then temp it again. What he looks for is the change. IF the temp continues to rise eventually the engine will lean bog. Thats too lean. He looks for it to stabilize. We just want it to run as fast as possible, without it getting so hot that the motor lays over near the end of a tank, or eating plugs. Lots of things will have an effect on the engine temps so I don't want to put a number to tune to, but I would say in the 250-280F would be a general area. Performance (good/bad) will determine what the right temp is. If it runs fast (not too rich), doesn't eat plugs, doesn't pit the piston or button, and doesn't lean bog, it is tuned correctly.
PS Hopefully the motor doesn't eat too many plugs me get it right lol
08-26-2007, 05:27 PM
#9578
08-26-2007, 06:40 PM
#9579
So what is the reason for running the 2d clutch over the 3 shoe. I am going to buy an extra clutch assembly but I didn't know if I should stick with the three shoe or go with the 2 shoe/4shoe setup. Is there any advantages. I have been running a regular OS tz but I had the chance to run a hot mods novarossi this weekend and maybe will run it the rest of the season and wanted another clutch.
Any opinioons??
Any opinioons??
08-26-2007, 06:40 PM
#9580
So what is the reason for running the 2d clutch over the 3 shoe. I am going to buy an extra clutch assembly but I didn't know if I should stick with the three shoe or go with the 2 shoe/4shoe setup. Is there any advantages. I have been running a regular OS tz but I had the chance to run a hot mods novarossi this weekend and maybe will run it the rest of the season and wanted another clutch.
Any opinions??
Any opinions??
08-26-2007, 08:52 PM
#9581
I have both clutches and the 2d seems to have better launch. Some engines dont need it, and some tracks dont have the grip, but when you want it, its there. On the IDM engine, I ran the 3d clutch. On the JP and STI the 2d was the ticket. I know it sucks because clutches can be expensive.
Last edited by Scott Fisher; 08-27-2007 at 02:10 AM.
08-26-2007, 10:04 PM
#9583
Who got the 2D or 4D clutch set up for sell...I might like to try out to compare my 3d clutch .....I'm runny the sirio STI evo 3 right now...
08-27-2007, 02:04 AM
#9584
When you get your IDM engine, use the collet that comes with the engine, not the one that comes with the clutch. You may have to dremel down the collet so it doesn't stick through the flywheel. For the STI engine use the collet that comes with the clutch. For both you will have to use a shim or two between the flywheel and the engine.
08-27-2007, 03:29 AM
#9585
IDM EVO 3. contact www.teamxspower.comThe 2d and 4d clutch both have 4 pins, but the 2d and 4d use some different parts. They are both made by Kyosho.
thanks
Chris