Originally Posted by jeff whiting

You might say "what is a Mugen guy doing answering this post" but I have some recent experience with this exact scenario and I have a RRR Evo in the family now. Anyway what I found with a front diff with 100 to 120 fluid is, it will act like a solid as you say to point where the traction is high enough to allow the diff to start to give. Then it becomes very unpredictable. The car will pull around sweepers like a solid or a oneway and then all of a sudden start to push wide. We found this to be the case at the recent WinterNats in my Daughters car. The car was just unpredictable. We made no other changes other than switching to a solid front and the car became very predicable and much easier to drive.

JEFF

Originally Posted by JRRobiso

Hello fellow V-One RRR owners. Just joined the group about 2-3 weeks ago. I already received my kit but have not started the build yet. Want to get all the stuff I need to build & run the car (e.g servos, tools, Rx packs & etc).

I normally run electric TC's that's why I need to make sure I have everything I need to build the kit.

So far read the manual (not as much detailed compared to the Tamiya manuals) and was going through the pages & illustrations. In regards to my previous posts, I've considered running OS engines (OS .12TZ(P)-T5 or T3 Port Turbo Engine) for now (might change brand of motor when kit is near completion), however my attention now are the servos.

In my electric TC's, I run Ko Propo's and will be using the PDS-2143 FET 6V 111.0oz 08 sec @ 60° (it's an old model but still works great) for the steering when I build the kit.

Now to my question, can I use the same servo specs for the throttle & brake or do I need one that has a higher torque rating & what would you guys recommend?

I was currently surfing the web (Ko's webpage) and was considering getting their latest high torque servo w/ alum heatsink (PDS-2368 ICS 6V 194.4oz 0.15 sec @ 60°).

Any advise or comments will be well appreciated.

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

That's so funny Jeff, because that's what I was thinking when I saw your name attached to the thread. I thought, "What's Jeff doing answering a quesiton in the RRR thread? Doesn't he drive a MTX-4?"

BTW.. How did someone manage to sneak a Kyosho into the house? JK!

Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the info. But this is the science I am trying to figure out..... In theory, would the diff slipping just abit should not have allowed the car to come around easier than it would with a lock up? Why is it you found otherwise?

Did you try going with an even higher wt oil?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by jeff whiting

What I have found is a front one way under power and a spool on power act about the same. The car will go where you turn it (assuming the car is setup correctly). A diff off power will generally turn in better. I guess in the end the science of all this setup stuff is not always black and white. And what works for one doesn't always work for another. Keep studing and thinking...you will get faster. Good Luck.

JEFF

Originally Posted by LateComer

Forgive my silly question
what do you mean the ON power, OFF power and UNDER power?
Thanks!

Originally Posted by JRRobiso

Hello fellow V-One RRR owners. Just joined the group about 2-3 weeks ago. I already received my kit but have not started the build yet. Want to get all the stuff I need to build & run the car (e.g servos, tools, Rx packs & etc).

I normally run electric TC's that's why I need to make sure I have everything I need to build the kit.

So far read the manual (not as much detailed compared to the Tamiya manuals) and was going through the pages & illustrations. In regards to my previous posts, I've considered running OS engines (OS .12TZ(P)-T5 or T3 Port Turbo Engine) for now (might change brand of motor when kit is near completion), however my attention now are the servos.

In my electric TC's, I run Ko Propo's and will be using the PDS-2143 FET 6V 111.0oz 08 sec @ 60° (it's an old model but still works great) for the steering when I build the kit.

Now to my question, can I use the same servo specs for the throttle & brake or do I need one that has a higher torque rating & what would you guys recommend?

I was currently surfing the web (Ko's webpage) and was considering getting their latest high torque servo w/ alum heatsink (PDS-2368 ICS 6V 194.4oz 0.15 sec @ 60°).

Any advise or comments will be well appreciated.

Originally Posted by jeff whiting

On power is accelerating....same with under power. I should not have used the term "on power" and "under power" in the same post. Sorry about that. Off power is letting off the throttle...for instance coasting into a corner.

JEFF

Originally Posted by gtrmx

I would stick to those specs...

I have used the 2143 or newer equivalents with great success. I like the fast response of the 2143 even for the throttle. If you do not use brakes too much then there is no need for more torque.

As for the engine, the OS TZ 5 port engine makes great power!! Buy one if your club rules allow for it.

Originally Posted by LateComer

Thanks!!
but is it possible to be full throttle at mid corner with solid?
I always be worried the car goes outward.........

Originally Posted by nickiphorosn

does anyone knows what the kyosho vzw-221 2 speed clutch tool do?how is it used and what do you measure with this?

Originally Posted by Dredd

I wouldn't say full throttle, but you should be able to put some throttle into it to progress through the turn onto the next straight. That all depends on the turn, and what's after it. If it's a sweeper into another straight then maybe you can go all out. If it's a tighter turn into a short straight maybe it would be better to blip the throttle slightly through the turn and then go to 1/4 or 1/2 at the exit. It also depends on how you drive. Some people setup the car to stick and some like a little bit of drift.

Originally Posted by doki_doki

I have been using this tool to remove the pinion gears from my lightened clutch bell without damaging it. Also, with this tool, you can check the gap when setting your clutch... Really helps in all the tedious work when using other measuring tools...

Originally Posted by nickiphorosn

thanks doki,but i'm a litle confused with the clutch.what is the gap you are reffering to?i recently reassempled my clutch according to the instruction manual and i have no gap.the bell is stable and there is no free play for the bell.on the other hand the engine works right with this set of the clutch.i don't know...maybe this tool would help