Dredd

so without this I can't adjust it at all? What part does this tighten? Obviously it's not the screw accessible on the outside of the spur gears.

mlaheyevo

when you take off the clutch bell there is a nut on top of the spring..... this tool helps you loosen and tighten it....... this only works with the bell off.. I have seen a tool that Serpent makes where you can loosen and tighten the nut without taking the bell off......hope this helps

Dredd

Yeah I loosened it and readjusted the endplay on the bell and it's like night and day. After it warms up a little bit it just snaps perfectly. It's not engaging right away, but after just ever so slightly easing the throttle down it will engage and take off. It's really nice.

thanks for your guys' help. I'll have to get one of those tools though. Holding it with needle nose is for the birds.

rcabj

iTrader: (1)

hi.. guys...it's really nothing and most probably , everyone are well aware off...anyway all this while i didn't took much attention on the spring adjustment and end play, but in the past 1-2 months i had a change of attitude towards this adjustments/setting. IT is the most important or even vital to your engine and car performance...with the correct setting depending on track and driver's requirement u will be amaze with the results even with a moderate motor...

Dredd

I can definately feel when the clutch is wrong even slightly. Since I'm used to it being one way and then a change and i'm like "what happened?"

Big big difference now that I got it right...car flies and it's still running a bit rich (some fuel is comming out the exhaust). I need to tune it back down again.

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

That is very true statement about when your clutch is adjusted right it will make a moderate engine pretty fast I'm a witness to that.

MRX4-R03

iTrader: (-1)

When using a solid front diff and 2deg upright what is the best steering ack to use for tight turns i know i am going to have a push but right now i am using 11 ,
what does 10 do
what does 11 do
what does 12 do
can someone explain

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Nitrokb.com -> V-ONE RRR KB -> FAQ -> Ackermann

MRX4-R03

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks I guess I have alot to read

AHP

iTrader: (1)

dear all expert, do share your policy on air filter!! I have this feeling that my engine is dying deal to my policy on the air filter which is to clean it after every run and change the air filter after three wash. Please advice me how do you wash it and how frequently do you change it? What is a good brand and does it make any difference anyway?? Please advice, thanks!!! I am running on a RRR and using the SIRIO STI, five port.

British Menace

When you say your cleaning your airfilter after each run.......how do you clean it?

If you put filter oil on a new filter, it's good for at least a whole race weekend.....thats a saturday and sunday.
Then I would clean it out thoroughly using a motor spray, brake cleaner or even good old dish washing soap. Rinse well and leave to dry completely!
Then, get a vacuum cleaner and suck on the filter. Sometimes washing, no matter how well you rinse out, there are left a small amount of dust in the sponge that washing has dislodged but which has not come out. Using the vacuum will get this out and it's better that way then your motor sucking that stuff in!!

As a guess, I would say your filter policy is not the reason for your motor dying. Unless your washing the filter in water and racing with it before it's dry or something. Maybe it's your clutch? Has your motor still got good compression?
Just a thought.

I hope this helps.

Menace

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Try these threads - but take note of the dates:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18867

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39743

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50914

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=144043

Dredd

After every run...even 5 min, remove the foam (if you can) wash it in mild soap and warm water. Squeeze it as you soap it up to get all the grit out. Then towel it dry and allow it to dry for a few hours to remove any excess water. Just be sure to rinse it with plain wwater to remove the soap. When it's dry apply a lightweight oil or special foam filter oil (I use motorcycle foam filter oil) liberally. Make sure you coat it evenly on all sides and squeeze it to distribute the oil throughout. You're ready to go.

After every engine shutoff and if I'm not running it again for the day I wash. Sometimes I start the engine in a day when the weather is adverse and test the tune to see if I can get it right. Then it's back to wash. This may be only a run of 1/4 tank but I use after run and oil the filter anyway. My car is spotless whenever I drive. This way I can gas and go.

Also I like to have more than one filter oiled up in a sealed bag. SO when I wash one and let it dry I can still drive.

Dredd

Question about the clutch. Is it normal for a centax to not engage right away, but take a bit of throttle movement? If yes, how much throttle should it require for engagement? It's a bit difficult to explain since I'm still learning the car but I am wondering if I have it right. It feels good when it catches, but when I try to feather it at lower speeds it's hard to do.

Mike Ellis

iTrader: (5)

Dredd, sounds like you have a lot of clearence between the clutch disk and bell. Everyone seems to have their own setting for this. My personal liking is to stack shims until it spins freely and take one out at a time untill it drags. I then add 1 shim back in with a very slight tick of a drag. It will pick up a little more clearence after the disk seats up. If you need a measurable spec, some have said they like .3 mm. It's kinda hard to measure, thats why I set mine as I've explained above. It's nice to have some clearence so you can pick up the throttle a little while pitting without the wheels turning.
Hope this helps, Mike