Kyosho v-one rrr
10-01-2006, 05:15 AM
#8101
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
thanks 
.
wat abt the earlier where the pinion gears does not engaged to spin the spur gears? do i have to reassemble the clutch again?
.wat abt the earlier where the pinion gears does not engaged to spin the spur gears? do i have to reassemble the clutch again?
10-01-2006, 05:38 AM
#8102
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by jag
You have to get the engine rpm up before the clutch will engage. If you are just breaking-in your new engine, you may not reach the rpm required to engage the clutch... depending upon your break-in method.
10-02-2006, 07:04 AM
#8103
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
no wonder i'm able to see some engagement but just aren't enough to engage totally. However as i max throttle to hit higher rpm, the engine stalled, is this the usual case for new engine break in? So i shall just mid throttle for the moment?
10-02-2006, 07:21 AM
#8104
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
no wonder i'm able to see some engagement but just aren't enough to engage totally. However as i max throttle to hit higher rpm, the engine stalled, is this the usual case for new engine break in? So i shall just mid throttle for the moment?
dude.....
why dont you come down to PA track at east coast park and we can together solve the problem
10-02-2006, 08:06 AM
#8105
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by maskedrider
dude.....
why dont you come down to PA track at east coast park and we can together solve the problem
why dont you come down to PA track at east coast park and we can together solve the problem
will PM u soon, so u often go there most of the weekend?
10-02-2006, 12:58 PM
#8106
Tech Adept
HELP!!!!
HALLO FROM ATHENS!does anyone know if the 18T alluminum pulleys from K-FACTORY , KF-K1457 , for v1 & G4 fit on the v-one rrr???Has anyone try them?please i need some answer!thanks in advance
10-03-2006, 02:21 AM
#8107
Steering Servo
Hi. After weeks of agonising between the MTX4, R40, Team Magic and V-One RRR, I finally purchased the RRR with a Novarosi N12 engine and Airtronics M11 radio. I have assembled the kit and as one reviewer of the car once said, "sometimes you are just impressed by the way a car looks, feels and runs". Since I have not run my car yet, the first two have definately made a mark on me! The car looks stunning! I have two outstanding issues though ...the 1st not so seriuos and the second a bit more serious.
1st: Is there an easier way of clipping the unbelievably small steering link to the servo arm? The space you are left to work with under the graphite upper deck is impossible. I finally managed to do it but am forced to trim the steering heavily in order to center it ...something I do not like.
2nd: When I apply brakes, and then release them, the brake link does not push the "brake post" (the one above the two speed gears) back and so my brakes remain engaged. I followed the instructions and cut the fuel hose by the required 11mm but still no luck ...clearly I am doing something wrong.
Please help ...after two weeks of careful assembly and re-assembly, body painting and careful measuring, I am now BURNING to take this thing to the track and use it in the environment it was intended for ...I am sure I will be as impressed with the way it runs as the way it looks! Thanks.
1st: Is there an easier way of clipping the unbelievably small steering link to the servo arm? The space you are left to work with under the graphite upper deck is impossible. I finally managed to do it but am forced to trim the steering heavily in order to center it ...something I do not like.
2nd: When I apply brakes, and then release them, the brake link does not push the "brake post" (the one above the two speed gears) back and so my brakes remain engaged. I followed the instructions and cut the fuel hose by the required 11mm but still no luck ...clearly I am doing something wrong.
Please help ...after two weeks of careful assembly and re-assembly, body painting and careful measuring, I am now BURNING to take this thing to the track and use it in the environment it was intended for ...I am sure I will be as impressed with the way it runs as the way it looks! Thanks.
10-03-2006, 02:32 AM
#8108
Originally Posted by Black_Widow
Steady! But this weekend rather pack wif some other activities. Glad to find someone to help will PM u soon, so u often go there most of the weekend?
will PM u soon, so u often go there most of the weekend?but glad to have another RRR driver like you
10-03-2006, 04:42 AM
#8109
Originally Posted by johnypiston
Hi. After weeks of agonising between the MTX4, R40, Team Magic and V-One RRR, I finally purchased the RRR with a Novarosi N12 engine and Airtronics M11 radio. I have assembled the kit and as one reviewer of the car once said, "sometimes you are just impressed by the way a car looks, feels and runs". Since I have not run my car yet, the first two have definately made a mark on me! The car looks stunning! I have two outstanding issues though ...the 1st not so seriuos and the second a bit more serious.
1st: Is there an easier way of clipping the unbelievably small steering link to the servo arm? The space you are left to work with under the graphite upper deck is impossible. I finally managed to do it but am forced to trim the steering heavily in order to center it ...something I do not like.
2nd: When I apply brakes, and then release them, the brake link does not push the "brake post" (the one above the two speed gears) back and so my brakes remain engaged. I followed the instructions and cut the fuel hose by the required 11mm but still no luck ...clearly I am doing something wrong.
Please help ...after two weeks of careful assembly and re-assembly, body painting and careful measuring, I am now BURNING to take this thing to the track and use it in the environment it was intended for ...I am sure I will be as impressed with the way it runs as the way it looks! Thanks.
1st: Is there an easier way of clipping the unbelievably small steering link to the servo arm? The space you are left to work with under the graphite upper deck is impossible. I finally managed to do it but am forced to trim the steering heavily in order to center it ...something I do not like.
2nd: When I apply brakes, and then release them, the brake link does not push the "brake post" (the one above the two speed gears) back and so my brakes remain engaged. I followed the instructions and cut the fuel hose by the required 11mm but still no luck ...clearly I am doing something wrong.
Please help ...after two weeks of careful assembly and re-assembly, body painting and careful measuring, I am now BURNING to take this thing to the track and use it in the environment it was intended for ...I am sure I will be as impressed with the way it runs as the way it looks! Thanks.
Can you post a photo of what you have done so we can get a better idea?
Both problems should not be too hard to fix at all.
10-03-2006, 05:11 AM
#8110
I am currently at work (unable to concentrate ...RRR on my mind constantly ). I'll take some tonight and send them through. I cannot believe that no-one else has had any issues snaping the steering link into ball on the servo arm though? Clearly I am doing something wrong ...I reckon I'll do some more re-assembly tonite. I'd much rather keep taking the thing apart then put it on the road and have something blow ...this baby looks like it's built for speed!
One other thing - the blue pulley that holds the belt down on the left of the car. If I leave that near the top I find that the belt makes contact with the manifold. So I adjusted it by loosening it and pressing it down. While that works, I am worried that the belt tension has been affected. Is there any other way of making sure the belt clears the manifold? The last thing I want is to insert anything that will increase the CG of the engine ...surely there's a better way. Thanks
). I'll take some tonight and send them through. I cannot believe that no-one else has had any issues snaping the steering link into ball on the servo arm though? Clearly I am doing something wrong ...I reckon I'll do some more re-assembly tonite. I'd much rather keep taking the thing apart then put it on the road and have something blow ...this baby looks like it's built for speed!One other thing - the blue pulley that holds the belt down on the left of the car. If I leave that near the top I find that the belt makes contact with the manifold. So I adjusted it by loosening it and pressing it down. While that works, I am worried that the belt tension has been affected. Is there any other way of making sure the belt clears the manifold? The last thing I want is to insert anything that will increase the CG of the engine ...surely there's a better way. Thanks
10-03-2006, 05:46 AM
#8111
Firstly make sure you have the balls on the servo saver pointing down. You should be able to snap the ball caps on by pushing them from under the car through the small hole in the middle of the chassis. I have seen them upside down and they do go on but are very tight fit
Secondly if you fit the brake linkage up like the manual it dows not push the brake back. There are 2 fixes for this. Either add a spring onto the brake linkage to push it back when you apply throttle or add a small sping between the brake shoes on the hex cap screw that hold the brake shoes on. The Kfactory shoes come with a small spring. You can also use a piece of fuel tube.
To set the brake properly push the brake arm back and turn the wheels. If you can turn them freely keep screwing in the hex head screws until the brake starts to bind. Then back off the screws so the brake no longer binds when you push the brake arm back as far as it can go.
An essential upgrade is the Kyosho long blue brake arm. The plastic one is made of chocolate
Secondly if you fit the brake linkage up like the manual it dows not push the brake back. There are 2 fixes for this. Either add a spring onto the brake linkage to push it back when you apply throttle or add a small sping between the brake shoes on the hex cap screw that hold the brake shoes on. The Kfactory shoes come with a small spring. You can also use a piece of fuel tube.
To set the brake properly push the brake arm back and turn the wheels. If you can turn them freely keep screwing in the hex head screws until the brake starts to bind. Then back off the screws so the brake no longer binds when you push the brake arm back as far as it can go.
An essential upgrade is the Kyosho long blue brake arm. The plastic one is made of chocolate
10-03-2006, 06:11 AM
#8112
Thanks ziggy ....comprehensive response! I really did think that either a spring or fuel tubing would sort the brake linkage problem out but being fairly new to assembling kits (my first was an EP Tamiya truck ...much simpler!!) I did not want to do anything other than what the manual said I should do. I should start trusting myself and follow my instincts. Did your belt not touch your manifold even without adjusting the tensioner?
10-03-2006, 06:36 AM
#8113
Originally Posted by johnypiston
Thanks ziggy ....comprehensive response! I really did think that either a spring or fuel tubing would sort the brake linkage problem out but being fairly new to assembling kits (my first was an EP Tamiya truck ...much simpler!!) I did not want to do anything other than what the manual said I should do. I should start trusting myself and follow my instincts. Did your belt not touch your manifold even without adjusting the tensioner?
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10-03-2006, 06:41 AM
#8114
Forgot about the manifold. Yes it touches the manifold but doesnt wear the belt.
Cheers
Cheers
