Kyosho v-one rrr
07-20-2006, 06:00 PM
#7591
Would trimming also be a good idea when using it with an Lola body? As i usually only use lola's. or wouldn't the bumper work as good because there isn't any foam on it? I also saw someone who mounted the lower part of the stock bumper and screwed the wide version on top so it wouldn't drag.
07-20-2006, 06:09 PM
#7592
I wouldn't trim it if you are running Lola bodies exclusively.
One of the things I'd learned from my 1/8th running is that once that bumper is bend down, it'll probably gonna stay that way and you'll lose steering because of it.
One remedy I'd learned was to boil the bumper front body post mount. By boiling the plastic parts, you make it more "rubbery" so after impact, it is easier for the plastic to bounce back to its original shape.
What you do is to get a pan, fill it with water, bring it to boil. Once the water starts boiling, take it off the range or stove, put your plastic parts in it and leave it in there until the water cools off.
Give it a try and see if that improves your bumper. It's not a miracle cure, but it enables the bumper and front body post plate to take a few more hits before it becomes useless.
Dom
One of the things I'd learned from my 1/8th running is that once that bumper is bend down, it'll probably gonna stay that way and you'll lose steering because of it.
One remedy I'd learned was to boil the bumper front body post mount. By boiling the plastic parts, you make it more "rubbery" so after impact, it is easier for the plastic to bounce back to its original shape.
What you do is to get a pan, fill it with water, bring it to boil. Once the water starts boiling, take it off the range or stove, put your plastic parts in it and leave it in there until the water cools off.
Give it a try and see if that improves your bumper. It's not a miracle cure, but it enables the bumper and front body post plate to take a few more hits before it becomes useless.
Dom
07-20-2006, 09:21 PM
#7593
If 40F and 37R works fine, would 37F and 35R be too extreme? Would the softer tires stick, slide, accelerate wear, etc.?
07-20-2006, 10:32 PM
#7594
Naturally I would want to run a harder tire and still maintain good grip. Let's face it, lesser wear means lesser $$$ out of my pocket. Softer tires will grip more but it'll wear quicker and also keep one thing in mind... softer tires might not give you good consistency in a 20+ min Main. The softest tires I've ran with the RRR this year was 37R and it provided good grip in the 5 min qualifier but I ended up sliding too much because of overheating the tires in the 15 mins Main.
I'm kinda a sucker for 40/40 shores at this moment with my current driving and setup, I'll make the car work around those tires.
Dom
I'm kinda a sucker for 40/40 shores at this moment with my current driving and setup, I'll make the car work around those tires.
Dom
07-21-2006, 12:45 AM
#7595
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I wouldn't trim it if you are running Lola bodies exclusively.
One of the things I'd learned from my 1/8th running is that once that bumper is bend down, it'll probably gonna stay that way and you'll lose steering because of it.
One remedy I'd learned was to boil the bumper front body post mount. By boiling the plastic parts, you make it more "rubbery" so after impact, it is easier for the plastic to bounce back to its original shape.
What you do is to get a pan, fill it with water, bring it to boil. Once the water starts boiling, take it off the range or stove, put your plastic parts in it and leave it in there until the water cools off.
Give it a try and see if that improves your bumper. It's not a miracle cure, but it enables the bumper and front body post plate to take a few more hits before it becomes useless.
Dom
One of the things I'd learned from my 1/8th running is that once that bumper is bend down, it'll probably gonna stay that way and you'll lose steering because of it.
One remedy I'd learned was to boil the bumper front body post mount. By boiling the plastic parts, you make it more "rubbery" so after impact, it is easier for the plastic to bounce back to its original shape.
What you do is to get a pan, fill it with water, bring it to boil. Once the water starts boiling, take it off the range or stove, put your plastic parts in it and leave it in there until the water cools off.
Give it a try and see if that improves your bumper. It's not a miracle cure, but it enables the bumper and front body post plate to take a few more hits before it becomes useless.
Dom
07-21-2006, 03:11 AM
#7596
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shores
i'm using kawahara 35 front and 35 rear.. on an indoor track btw hehe.i'll be practicing tom again with the same setup.
07-22-2006, 11:00 AM
#7600
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Anyone know when will the conversion for the Evo will be out? And if the WCE can be converted to the Evo. Also, any rumors on the pricetag on this conversion?
Dom
07-22-2006, 11:13 AM
#7601
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
...There is no rumor on a conversion kit at this moment so there is no rumors on price tage on a conversion kit.
Dom
Dom
Heres a rumour about price. I heard the conversion kit will retail around $89.00
Cheers
$89 is a good price!
07-22-2006, 11:41 AM
#7603
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Yes there is a rumour!! There are rumours all over this thread. There just might not be any truth in them..
Heres a rumour about price. I heard the conversion kit will retail around $89.00
Cheers
Heres a rumour about price. I heard the conversion kit will retail around $89.00
Cheers
07-22-2006, 12:37 PM
#7605
Originally Posted by Riketsu
How much have you spent in converting ur RRR into Evo?
I do have all the springs available but probably won't be using it till next year. The reason is that I thought you'll only need to change your rear shock bodies to the Evolva front shock bodies, but that's just part of it. The new springs I.D. is smaller won't fit on your WCE collars. First you'll need 2 sets of Evolva front shock bodies, then 2 sets collars, then also the pistons. To convert your shocks to use the new springs, that is about $60 in retail for shock bodies, collars, pistons.
Then the improved rear end: new rear bulkhead, new center bulkhead (for the new brake plate), new brake cam shaft, new 2-speed layshaft, new aluminum layshaft pulley, new brake disc. I don't know pricing on that, but $50 retail would be a good estimate.
So in short, to completely turn your car into the EVO... well, you can add everything up. That's why I jokingly commented on the $89 from ziggy is a good price.
The EVO isn't just about the top deck and the standup throttle servo. A few think Kyosho just want to add some stuff to a car that is at the end of its lifespan and do a last push on sales, but I don't see in that way. It has a lot more improvements that you might not notice right away from just looking at the pictures. Plus another thing that I take very much into consideration is that the car is so much easier to work on, that saves time between heats when you are in a hurry. A huge improvement is the 2-speed layshaft. Now the brake pulley has 2 prongs that goes into the brak disc to hold it in place and the pully itself is mounted on the shaft by a set screw. Just imagine how much time saved if you need to change a rear belt now.
Kyosho also just came out with the new adjustable rear sway bar set. Not only that, they also offer another set of "blades" along with it for tunability.
Bertin's EVO won the FEMCA champsionship and I'm counting on seeing him repeat at World Champ again!
Dom