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Old 07-12-2006, 08:16 AM
  #7486  
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Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Its for adjusting tweak. Use a tweak board and this adjustment become apparent
Ziggy is correct. And to elaborate a bit more...

When I setup droop (on the bench at home when I have plenty of time), I disconnect the shocks, loosen the front sway by the set screws and then push them out so they don't touch each other at all. Then do your droop setting on pit board/blocks. Once that's done, I push the bars back toward each other, that's when the little tab adjustment come in handy. I'll adjust the 2 tabs so that I make sure I'm retaining the same droop each side and full arms travel. Then I pop the shocks back on after I'm done.

Hope this helps.

Dom
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:24 AM
  #7487  
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i think it won't differ so much in terms of CG. correct me if i'm wrong but the heaviest part of a servo lies at the bottom, so whether it's standup or laydown, the bottom part of the servo will still be at the bottom part of the chassis...
well it's just my opinion...
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:41 AM
  #7488  
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Originally Posted by dodo
i think it won't differ so much in terms of CG. correct me if i'm wrong but the heaviest part of a servo lies at the bottom, so whether it's standup or laydown, the bottom part of the servo will still be at the bottom part of the chassis...
well it's just my opinion...
I agree with you, my thought on the servo motor as well. Since the first pics of the EVO came out I've been saying the CG won't really make "that" much difference.

Dom
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:57 AM
  #7489  
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Originally Posted by jag
Do we know the standup servo is the "way to go" yet? Who has been using it... Josh, Marc, Ron, anybody?

What else is in the conversion kit?

Thanks for the info/update.
Rather than the top deck, I'm much more interested the revised two speed shaft and brake/pulley components, with the claimed easier maintenance, as the RRR as it stands now is uncharacteristically difficult to work on (compared to the rest of the rrr) in this area.

It does look very different, but does anyone know exactly how it is different?

Also, is it likely there will actually be a "kit" or just a list of part numbers you need to buy?
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:13 AM
  #7490  
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Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I honestly don't think I will be able to "feel" the difference when it comes down to the CG. I'm anticipating my brakes might feel a little different, hopefully a bit more modulation. Regardless whether it's the "way to go", I'll be doing the top deck conversion just because of the easy access to the throttle servo. And just because to try new things out, see it myself and put this whole "High servo CG" issue that everyone was complaining about to rest.

I'm anticipating the parts will be here next week.

Dom
glad to get the info i have 2 rrr i will change 1 to evo are conversion parts avail. yet
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:47 AM
  #7491  
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Originally Posted by Munkmotion
It does look very different, but does anyone know exactly how it is different?

Also, is it likely there will actually be a "kit" or just a list of part numbers you need to buy?
Instead of having 1 pin holding the alu brake hub, another pin holding the pulley, the pulley is now installed using a set screw. Also the pulley has 2 prongs which the brake disc is mounted. Kinda like the setup on the Evolva.

As for if there will actually be a "kit", still waiting to answer.

Dom
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:16 PM
  #7492  
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Default Front Diff

I am switching to the front diff from the spool. From what I have been reading and research done, the car should be alot easier to drive.

To some of the persons who are presently using the front diff and pleased with it, what wt oils you find works best?

50,000 wt
100,000 wt
120,000 wt

I am planing for a major event next weekend and don't have much time for trial & error.

Thanks in advance for this vital info!
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
I am switching to the front diff from the spool. From what I have been reading and research done, the car should be alot easier to drive.

To some of the persons who are presently using the front diff and pleased with it, what wt oils you find works best?

50,000 wt
100,000 wt
120,000 wt

I am planing for a major event next weekend and don't have much time for trial & error.

Thanks in advance for this vital info!
50,000wt
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:27 PM
  #7494  
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Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
glad to get the info i have 2 rrr i will change 1 to evo are conversion parts avail. yet
want an EVO?
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:37 PM
  #7495  
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
50,000wt
Thanks as always!!!
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:22 PM
  #7496  
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Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Thanks as always!!!
You are always welcome
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:03 PM
  #7497  
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I have just started doing some different combo of oil for front and rear diff recently. I went the opposite of what people would normally run... I did 30k front, 50k rear... worked pretty good surprisingly.

I'm having parts for another set of diffs coming so I can just do back to back testing w/o too much time wasted changing oil. Different combos with front spool, 30k & 50k front, 30k/40k/50k rear.

Dom
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:24 PM
  #7498  
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Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
I am switching to the front diff from the spool. From what I have been reading and research done, the car should be alot easier to drive.

To some of the persons who are presently using the front diff and pleased with it, what wt oils you find works best?

50,000 wt
100,000 wt
120,000 wt

I am planing for a major event next weekend and don't have much time for trial & error.

Thanks in advance for this vital info!
60K. I did some testing and found the front diff easier to drive than the spool and the one way, it was more consistent.

Cheers
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:28 PM
  #7499  
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
want an EVO?
ive got 2triple Rs i can make one an evo
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:34 AM
  #7500  
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Here's a brand new EVO for sale....
http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-V-One-...QQcmdZViewItem

I think luketob is on this board too.

Dom
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