Kyosho v-one rrr
05-25-2006, 06:45 AM
#6931
Originally Posted by Dynamite
if you get the kyosho lightweight mainshaft be carefull because the 12mm collar your first gear hub sits on can lock onto the shaft, and thats a mega pain in the rear...
I could see a softer shaft burring and causing the one-way to seize, but I'd expect a Ti shaft wouldn't suffer.
Cache Ya,
Craig.
05-25-2006, 07:07 AM
#6932
Originally Posted by Momentum
This 12mm collar wouldn't be the one-way bearing would it?
I could see a softer shaft burring and causing the one-way to seize, but I'd expect a Ti shaft wouldn't suffer.
Cache Ya,
Craig.
I could see a softer shaft burring and causing the one-way to seize, but I'd expect a Ti shaft wouldn't suffer.
Cache Ya,
Craig.
05-25-2006, 07:29 AM
#6933
Lexan..
hey all,
i recently bought Protoform Mazda6 lexan
i have a question about the front window whole..
where do you usually make it, center, left, right and why?
also is it allowed to make whole in the rear window? here in some races it is allowed, but in the main championsionship it is not.
Also i am a bit confused on how to assembly the rear wing, the lexan has three mounts for the wing to be screwed on it, on the left and right one there are some arrowes on the lexan. On the center mount there are only points for the wholes to be made. what is the sense of the arrows?
antony
i recently bought Protoform Mazda6 lexan
i have a question about the front window whole..where do you usually make it, center, left, right and why?
also is it allowed to make whole in the rear window? here in some races it is allowed, but in the main championsionship it is not.
Also i am a bit confused on how to assembly the rear wing, the lexan has three mounts for the wing to be screwed on it, on the left and right one there are some arrowes on the lexan. On the center mount there are only points for the wholes to be made. what is the sense of the arrows?
antony
05-25-2006, 07:34 AM
#6934
I usually cut the hole central between the tank and engine looking straight on. This makes it handier for refuelling while still letting the air directly at the engine.
You can cut the 2 front side windows out completely and the whole rear window.
Not sure about the arrows on the rear wing. didnt pay that much attetion to be honest. I normally just bolt down the 2 outer ones. Its only marginal but every extra screw adds weight and annoys the airflow
You can cut the 2 front side windows out completely and the whole rear window.
Not sure about the arrows on the rear wing. didnt pay that much attetion to be honest. I normally just bolt down the 2 outer ones. Its only marginal but every extra screw adds weight and annoys the airflow
05-25-2006, 09:26 AM
#6935
Originally Posted by jag
You don't run those tires at 66mm do you. 
Wait a minute... you aren't running that car off-road are you? Your track is paved or lava or something like that... right?
Wait a minute... you aren't running that car off-road are you? Your track is paved or lava or something like that... right?
Dom & Mike: I know they are on the way, but is the diameter of the GQ tires??
The 66mm is something else...
05-25-2006, 09:37 AM
#6937
Originally Posted by B4
I'm using them but it's hard to say if they are a performance item. I haven't seen my lap times decrease when I put them in but they also haven't increased.
I think a lot of what we do is really not required to gain performance but is done more because we can. I said when I got this car I'd keep it standard but then I cheated on myself and now I can't stop. Is there professional help available for me like (r/c anonymous).
I think a lot of what we do is really not required to gain performance but is done more because we can. I said when I got this car I'd keep it standard but then I cheated on myself and now I can't stop. Is there professional help available for me like (r/c anonymous).
If I don't improve my fastest lap times by 2-3 seconds after a few races, I'll be pissed.
Last edited by rmdhawaii; 05-25-2006 at 11:13 AM.
05-25-2006, 09:40 AM
#6938
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
We true them down to 60/62 to start with the 23T pulley.
Dom
Dom
05-25-2006, 09:53 AM
#6940
Originally Posted by Palmaris Europe
The Ti shaft might cause the one-way to seize faster. Ti doesnt disapate the temperature as fast as a steel shaft so the bearing has excessive heat build up. Its the heating and cooling process that causes the oneway to seize.
05-25-2006, 09:56 AM
#6941
Originally Posted by Dynamite
if you get the kyosho lightweight mainshaft be carefull because the 12mm collar your first gear hub sits on can lock onto the shaft, and thats a mega pain in the rear... i have had it happen with both a genuine kyosho one first and then an east aftermarket shaft. no problems with the std steel shaft that comes with the kit. i think it might have something to do with the two dissimilar metals and if the screw isnt tight as holding the first gear and collar on the shaft spins inside the collar causing it the burr up.
Last edited by rmdhawaii; 05-25-2006 at 10:58 AM.
05-25-2006, 10:43 AM
#6943
Originally Posted by Proteus
Yes. Same thing happened to me. What a pain in the a$$!
05-25-2006, 10:48 AM
#6944
Originally Posted by Momentum
This 12mm collar wouldn't be the one-way bearing would it?
I could see a softer shaft burring and causing the one-way to seize, but I'd expect a Ti shaft wouldn't suffer.
Cache Ya,
Craig.
I could see a softer shaft burring and causing the one-way to seize, but I'd expect a Ti shaft wouldn't suffer.
Cache Ya,
Craig.
What I'm hoping will help is to remove the collar regularly for cleaning and lubing (maintenance).
05-25-2006, 10:58 AM
#6945
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Ti with steel or aluminum overtime will bond. When I work at a bike shop in college, we use anti-seize grease on all Ti stuff. Put a very light coat of that grease on before you put the collar on will prevent the bonding.
Dom
Dom