rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Mark,

I found one of your posts from March and was wondering how the K Factory one-way compares to the stock one-way, other than just quality. Any performance advantage?

Thanks!

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

mcsquish,

Can you comment on the performance difference between the K Factory one-way and stock one-way as well?

Thanks!

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I finished my 2nd pass through the forum today. Very brutal. The best way to get through it is to turn off all the images. I think I have all the FAQ that I want to add to the KB. While I was going through the forum, I did see something that deserved some special recognition.

The Funniest RRR Post Quotes award goes to rcrossco_1:

"Only if you're a donkey."

"Your car looks like its been wired up by a chimpanzee."

"What a stupid idea."

LMAO!!

While I'll admit that these weren't exactly the nicest comments, they are pretty funny. I can't stop laughing, even now...

maskedrider

iTrader: (4)

i been thinking of this issue for quite a long time, I read so many comment of many hop-up for RRR-WCE... like using Team-magic parts, mugen parts...etc etc.... dun the Kyosho WCE parts are more comparable to use it on WCE ?? I know that certain kyosho parts are not likly to last longer but indeed they are engineer/ design for WCE performance. If the engineer/ Designer know that by using those hop-up parts can improve the car , certainly they will come out with the option parts for it, so to surpass the rest of other models...

I rest my case...

drfritz

I think that they have to draw the line on what they will put on the car from the factory just to keep the cost down. Nobody is going to pay 5 bills for a car.

markp27

In terms of out-right performance, I can't tell if the K-Factory part is better than the Kyosho part, they both perform their job as a one-way equally well. The outdrives from the K-Factory part are better - the pulley is Alu (I like to have all my pulleys to be made from Alu, as they are easier to maintain) and you have the flexibility of changing the one-way into a solid within a couple of seconds. This makes it a winner hands-down for me.

Cheers, Mark.

ae_ntc3

i got a problem with trying to get the front and rear track below 200mm. I have screwed in the pillow balls all the way until there is no thread showing and it is just over 200mm.This is obviously not right because then i got no thread left to adjust toe-in and camber with.
i got the standard 3r not the wce and im using stock dogbones in the rear and kfactory uni's in the front with vzw010.
what offset tires do i have to use with this combination ????

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

What tires are you using? Could you give us a part number please?

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

A few questions for everyone:

1. If you've been rear-ended, did something break on the car due to the collision itself?

2. Have your changed your front suspension bushing so that it is in the upper most position (WCE instructions, step 6, position "A"). This is suppose to give you more turn in.

3. For the anti-rollbar, what do you have it set at and what is the performance difference between the hard and soft setting?

4. Other than Racing4Evo , is anyone else running the the 1 degree front hubs? Kyosho part # VZ201-1, V-One RRR Steering Knuckle 1 degree

5. How much flex should there be in your front or rear belt before you have to replace it? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)

6. For the WCE, how much flex should there be when you depress the middle belt? (i.e. When you press it, how far down should it move?)

7. If you lose part or all of a tooth on a pulley, one-way or gear diff, should you replace it or can you continue to run with it?

8. What brand/part# inline fuel filter are you using?

9. Are you using a filter for the pressue line back to the fuel tank from the tuned pipe? If so, what brand/part# are you using?

10. Have you replaced your front or rears turnbuckles? If so, what did you replace them with?

11. Have you upgraded your rear swaybar to the 2.3 size? What has been the performance benefit? Why would this be a bad idea?

12. Do you normally run with or without the stock rear swaybar attached?

13. Are you using a tank opener? If not, why? If so, what does it look like? (i.e. tie strap or other device) Attach photo please.

14. This page (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/rac.../result-e.html),
shows a picture of Josh Cyrul's transponder mounted to the switch bracket. Is your transponder attached this way? Had any problems? Any other thoughts on this?

15. What did you use to trim your bumper?


Thanks guys! Answers will be compiled and added to the FAQ.

ae_ntc3

thats the problem, i don't know which tyre offset to use. i think that the tyres are o offset but im not sure and there GQ
a part number for what ???

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

james, sounds like you're using an offset tyre, try using 0 offset tyres, sould fix it, otherwise steve might find out your cheating might even be offset hex drives on your car?

ae_ntc3

3. soft gave me more turn into the corner

7. if you have no spares it will get you through a race day but then change it as soon as you can get a spare

8. im using a big daddy fuel filter

9.i am using one in the pressure line but i don't know what brand it is. It is mean't for an 1/8th scale on-road so it is about 3cc

10. i replaced the front ones with g4 turnbuckles

12. depends which track i run at but i usually without the swaybar at my home track

13. no tank opener because i find it is easier to open the tank using your index finger

14.yes thats where i put my transponder. i feel it is a bit unprotected but i can't be bothered moving it lol

15.i used a bench grinder

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Part number for the tires.

ae_ntc3

lol what are you doing still up ???
are you ready for tomorrow ??
i might come out to have a look cause i need to get some bits off ric

ae_ntc3

ohh
sorry i threw out the box