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Old 05-01-2006, 11:22 PM
  #6271  
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How big is the bend? If it's just 1-2 mm i wouldnt bother changing the chassies, my RRR WCE chassies is slightly bent after 2 racedays without any wall-hits and the car has never handled as good as now. When you put the stiffener on it will surely make the chassies flat again..
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:08 AM
  #6272  
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Originally Posted by Sparx
How big is the bend? If it's just 1-2 mm i wouldnt bother changing the chassies, my RRR WCE chassies is slightly bent after 2 racedays without any wall-hits and the car has never handled as good as now.

Originally Posted by Sparx
When you put the stiffener on it will surely make the chassies flat again..
I would imagine so. Once you bolt everything on - the upper plate, the stiffner and the engine mount - it should flatten itself out. If it doesn't, then I would definitely return it. Now if you had a 7075 chassis and it was bent, that would be a different story.
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:16 AM
  #6273  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Please be sure to keep track of your lap times and how you do relative to your buddies. Once you add the UE parts, it would be good to note if you see an improvement. Also, let me know what your setup is. Are any of the other guys running V1RRR WCE? That would be great if they are. Hmmm.. Maybe the preliminary shopping list will be ready earlier than expected...
i just got some parts in do you want some weight differences between the stock engine mounts and the one-piece engine mount, aluminium brake lever and the stock plastic one and the alloy hex drives versus the stock plastic ones.
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:22 AM
  #6274  
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Originally Posted by maskedrider
so is it that the chassie should be flat straight from the head to the end ? Or is it the end should be slightly upward ?
It doesn't look like the end of a banana does it?

Just kidding! Just kidding!

Just for you bro, I pulled the car out of the box, took off the wheels and put it on the Hudy setup board - and you know what? My chassis is straight except the back end after the rear wheels where the back of the chassis is about 0.5mm off the board. Big deal. You guys should see some of the track acrobatics I've done with the car. I'm surprised it doesn't look like ... a banana!

I wouldn't worry about it. We're all going to get Shimo replacement chassis anyway. Right?
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:28 AM
  #6275  
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Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
i just got some parts in do you want some weight differences between the stock engine mounts and the one-piece engine mount, aluminium brake lever and the stock plastic one and the alloy hex drives versus the stock plastic ones.
Okay, if it's not too much trouble. Should be interesting to see what the differences are.

You got four scales? I would be suprised if you did. I would really like to know what the weight distribution is under each wheel, with and without the engine and pipe on. That will give me some weight distribution information for the knowledge base.

Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:42 AM
  #6276  
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I really hope that Team Kyosho can maintain it's title at this year's ROAR Nationals. Team Mugen is awfully dangerous with those MTX-4 - and they've got another year of racing under their belt - and Mike's got all of those championship titles. Yikes!

Josh's Race Report: http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/rac.../result-e.html
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:31 AM
  #6277  
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actually i dont but i know someone that does have 4 scales all hooked up together. They cost about $3000 aud !!!!!there made by longacre.
i wont be able to measure for a few weeks cause the person who owns them are going on holidays.
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:58 AM
  #6278  
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Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
actually i dont but i know someone that does have 4 scales all hooked up together. They cost about $3000 aud !!!!!there made by longacre.
i wont be able to measure for a few weeks cause the person who owns them are going on holidays.
Okay.
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Old 05-02-2006, 06:32 AM
  #6279  
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Does anyone know of another gear diff I can use in the front of the RRR. The standard gear diff does not let you use number 11 ackerman as the diameter of the diff is to great.

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2006, 06:52 AM
  #6280  
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Shock Questions

Rebound -
So far I have all the air out and no leaks, but one is a tad faster than the other. Still air in the shock?

Removal-
How is everyone popping their shocks off towers and arms?

Last edited by performula; 05-02-2006 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 05-02-2006, 06:55 AM
  #6281  
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Originally Posted by Sparx
How big is the bend? If it's just 1-2 mm i wouldnt bother changing the chassies.
.1-.2 of a millimeter.
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:18 AM
  #6282  
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Originally Posted by performula
Shock Questions

Rebound -
So far I have all the air out and no leaks, but one is a tad faster than the other. Still air in the shock?

Removal-
How is everyone popping their shocks off towers and arms?
If one shock is faster, then that one probably has more oil in it.

I don't pop the shocks off the tower, I just unscrew the ball. I pop them off the bottom with my 1.5mm hex driver. It's long and thin and fits right between the arm and the cap. Just slide it in there and pry it off... carefully. Make sure you pry against the plastic cap and not the shock spring, cup or shaft. Just my method.
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:24 AM
  #6283  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I really hope that Team Kyosho can maintain it's title at this year's ROAR Nationals. Team Mugen is awfully dangerous with those MTX-4 - and they've got another year of racing under their belt - and Mike's got all of those championship titles. Yikes! we just got to keep testing because the mugen guys dont take breaks they practice day in & day out i know believe me thats why we in LV have started traveling to CALI. to practice if you want to keep it close just keep working it wont be easy some other drivers are just on a different level im behind by about 20 years but im trying good luck to all a Race Report: http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/race/rac.../result-e.html
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:27 AM
  #6284  
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practice track time is key lets do IT 3R
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:20 PM
  #6285  
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Originally Posted by B4
Does anyone know of another gear diff I can use in the front of the RRR. The standard gear diff does not let you use number 11 ackerman as the diameter of the diff is to great.

Thanks
Are you trying to avoid using the #10? Worried about too much steering? Using the #10 might be unavoidable.
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