Secret_weapon

I was wondering, what is the best method of measuring the toe angle ?

I mean without the use of setup stations.

markp27

The standard setup is a good place to start, as you have a known working setup where the basic components should be in balance with each other. This allows you to make changes in specific areas in an attempt to improve the overall handling. Those things you try which improve the car you keep and those which don't simply reset back to how they were previously.

Sounds like you're aproaching it from the right direction. It is all to easy to overdrive the car at first, leading to mistakes. Take it easy and learn the track well. Getting the braking points right is very important.

You need to be careful with the track width, as going too narrow can make the car very twichy. Keep the 200mm width until you feel you need a more agressive setup. Also don't worry about the shock ball-end caps getting scrubbed from the inside of the rims - mine does this, too. If I setup my steering throw, so that the ball-end caps don't get scrubbed, then I don't feel I have enough steering. You should setup the steering throw as shown in the RRR manual.
If you are still worried about the ball-end caps being scrubbed, you can always file down the inside of the rims a little on your tyre truer.

If I were in your shoes, I would first do some basic checks on your car. First I would suggest is for you to check the suspension arm pins are all straight. If all is ok, re-assemble the suspension arms checking to make sure that the roll-centre inserts are all the correct way around, and that the correspond to the settings in the stock setup sheet.
Make sure you don't re-mount the shocks and disconnect the front anti-roll bar. Now check that both the left and right arms fall down under their own weight. Their movement should me light and smooth.
Check that the upper arms don't have any fore/aft play in them. Push and pull the upper arms - if there is some play (which there is in the standard kit), then you'll need to put a thin metal washer behind the caster clip to remove any play. Once you've done this check once more that the arms still fall under their own weight.

Next step is to set the droop - again do this without the front anti-roll bar being attached. Set the droop on either side as pre the stock setup sheet. Once both sides are setup correctly, then you can re-connect the front anti-roll bar. It is now important that you check the droop again - you're checking for tweak caused by the anti-roll bar.
Using the tweak adjusting leavers on the lower arms, adjust the droop until both sides are correct.

Before re-attaching your shocks, ensure that the shock shafts move in and out of the body nice and smoothly. Listen to see if there is air in the shocks when you push-pull the piston - if there is air in there, you'll hear a squelshing sort of a noise.
If you don't know what oil is in there or how long it has been in there, throw it out and rebuild the shocks according the the assembly instructions. If the shocks don't work, you're never going to get a good setup.

Repeat the above with the rear suspension assembly, anti-roll bar and shocks.

This will ensure that any of the problems you have aren't coming from any of these components.

Something else that is important to check is the condition of the ball bearings. You're going to have to take them all out and check to see if they are gritty. Clean them out with a degreaser (brake cleaner or something similar), allow them to dry and then use a very light oil to lubricate them.
If any are still gritty after doing this, then I would replace them - they can cause a dragging effect which upsets the handling of your car.

Check you diff is correctly assembled - the diff should have a nice smooth action and shouldn't feel notchy (you will feel the teeth of the gears inside the diff engaging, but this feeling should be quite subtle).
Open up the diff and check to make sure there isn't too much or too little oil in there. My preference is about 60% full - the oil should just be above the bevel shafts. Too much can cause the diff to be quite notchy and too little gives strange handling effects.

Completely agree with you - for this reason, make sure all the components of your car are working correctly - only when you have 100% confidence in your car can you be sure that setup changes will improve the handling to your liking. Invest the time and you'll get the rewards.

You're right - it is stressful and you never seem to have enough time to try the things you wish. Preperation is 90% of the battle, though. A 100% sorted car gets you most of the way there.
Try and prepare somethings to try out before your practice sessions start (as long as the sessions are more than 5 minutes, you should be able to achieve some improvements). Springs + Droop are my favourite quickies Do 3 or 4 laps and try and evaluate where your car needs to be improved. More steering on turn-in.....change to softer front springs - check ride height is still ok and hit the track again for 3 or 4 laps. Need more turn in.....increase the rear droop (turn out the droop screws a quater turn on each side).
More steering on the exit of a corner.....harder rear springs - check ride height and hit the track again. Still not enough, decrease front droop (turn in the screws a quater turn).

These are all pretty rough changes, but if your time is limited, then this is all you can really do.
Remember don't waste time running a setup that doesn't work - if you feel it isn't working well, come in asap and change the appropriate setting.

If you find the car is understeering a lot or is very loose, probably your tyres are too hard. Have a couple of sets of tyres in the pits of the same size but with different shores - quickly change them and see how they improve things.

Once your session is over, keep those settings which worked and reset those which didn't. Also you'll need to setup your car properly after the quick changes in the session.

Camber is something which I don't play around with too much. I start off with the basic camber settings of front 1.5 degrees and rear 2.5 degrees. After a session, I'll adjust the camber so that the front tyres wear flat and the rears are slightly coned. That's all - I don't adjust the camber to sort out handling problems as long as the tyres aren't coning funny.
More likely to effect your handling are the rear diff and toe-in/out settings.

Front toe-out I generally leave at about 1 degree, the rear I'll set to about 2 degrees toe-in - I adjust the rear to fine-tune the amount of steering I have on power. As long as you make sure you adjust your rear toe correctly, it won't affect your camber. To give more toe in, turn the front ball in and the rear ball out by exactly the same amount - turning only one of the balls, will affect the tracking width and the camber.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Mark.

PS: Read the 710 FAQ in my signature - there are lots of setup tips which are also applicable to the RRR. There are also lots of tips on maintenence which you'll find useful.

drfritz

I'm looking for the Kawahara Rear Adjustable Blade Type Anti Roll Bar Set for V One RRR, Precion used to carry it, but no longer do, any body know who might?

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

markp27 - Wow! Thanks! Excellent!

markp27

You're welcome - glad to help out.

Cheers, Mark.

dougday

Excellent Mark

robert maestrey

Mr Day I missed you at the last state race I hope to see you at the kyosho cup.....

dougday

When is Kyosho cup?

Did not plan on making it as I am repairing my house after a garbage truck ran thru it.

Can I run outlaw?

markp27

Thanks, Doug - were you at the winternats this year?

Cheers, Mark.

maskedrider

iTrader: (4)

well done Mark !!!!

dougday

Yes,

I ran 1/8th masters...Did 2 laps in the A before being t boned.

It was a bit cold the first few days but it warmed up by wednesday and we did have a ball.

dougday

Loo ks like I will make the kyosho cup

robert maestrey

Awesome doug......Ill see you there.....are you staying over until the state race the week after.....doug pm your # I left a message on one of your phones dont know if you got it

dougday

Yes, I will be staying for the state race. Have to get a second place trophy and I already have one drop.

fritzD

iTrader: (1)

hey guys,

im having difficulty extending my rear with to 200mm without my drive shafts popping from my diff outdrives. How do you resolve this? thanks