Kyosho v-one rrr
#5251
Originally Posted by cooldude
what's up guys! I'm wondeing if you guys come across a problem on the clutch bell bearings? keeps on breaking down? only the 5x8 and 5x10 is find, for about 2 to 3 run time for 5min fur run.
ps: need HELP to fixs this problem.
thank you
cooldude.
ps: need HELP to fixs this problem.
thank you
cooldude.
The solution was easy - simply wash out the bearings with brake degreaser, let them dry and then spray them with WD-40. Although WD-40 is very light, it won't fly out of the bearings in the clutch.
I did this before the start of each day's run and I ran one set of bearings for a whole season without any further problems.
Cheers, Mark
#5252
Originally Posted by cooldude
what's up guys! I'm wondeing if you guys come across a problem on the clutch bell bearings? keeps on breaking down? only the 5x8 and 5x10 is find, for about 2 to 3 run time for 5min fur run.
ps: need HELP to fixs this problem.
thank you
cooldude.
ps: need HELP to fixs this problem.
thank you
cooldude.
Cheers
#5253
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Tony, bring me your car next time I see you at Revelation. All these time (1.5 years with 2 RRRs) I've only broke one clutch bearing. Let me take a look at your clutch setup--maybe something else is wrong.
#5255
Check the brakes not binding when the throttle is wide open. This will cause the clutch to overheat and heat the bearings as Mark said
Cheers
Cheers
#5256
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Was in Toledo, OH now Battle Ground, WA
Posts: 833
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Has anyone heard when the K-Factory one-way/spool might be here in the states? Yeah I know I could look back in all of the posts, but I admit, I'm lazy......
#5257
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Tony, bring me your car next time I see you at Revelation. All these time (1.5 years with 2 RRRs) I've only broke one clutch bearing. Let me take a look at your clutch setup--maybe something else is wrong.
#5258
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by 710baby
I would suggest that cleaning them often due to fine grain dirt enters the clutch bell & wears the bearring down this has happened to me once & after applying some maintenace after every race so far it has not happened again
#5259
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by markp27
This is a problem I once had with my 710 - it was mainly due to the clutch running hot. The heat of the clutch would cause the oil/grease of the bearing to run out, leaving them running simply metal-to-metal. These bearings don't last too long under these conditions. I, like you, was finding after three or four tanks that my bearings would be starting to blow.
The solution was easy - simply wash out the bearings with brake degreaser, let them dry and then spray them with WD-40. Although WD-40 is very light, it won't fly out of the bearings in the clutch.
I did this before the start of each day's run and I ran one set of bearings for a whole season without any further problems.
Cheers, Mark
The solution was easy - simply wash out the bearings with brake degreaser, let them dry and then spray them with WD-40. Although WD-40 is very light, it won't fly out of the bearings in the clutch.
I did this before the start of each day's run and I ran one set of bearings for a whole season without any further problems.
Cheers, Mark
#5260
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by AndyT ©
Give them a good clean and relube them after every race meet.....I`ve found Trinity Royal Oil works well with them.
Cheers
Cheers
thanks
#5261
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by cooldude
ok! I'll look for it.
thanks
thanks
#5262
Thanks for everyone's suggestion for fixing my understeer problem. I found this at another forum and wondered what everyone's thoughts are on this:
1. front solid, rear diff = understeering on corner entry; oversteer on power corner exit;
2. front 1-way, rear diff = oversteering on corner entry; oversteering on power corner exit;
3. front diff, rear diff = neutral on corner entry; neutral on power corner exit.
I'm running #2. What are you guys running?
drfritz: Thanks man! Lots of options for changing things on a race day.
1. front solid, rear diff = understeering on corner entry; oversteer on power corner exit;
2. front 1-way, rear diff = oversteering on corner entry; oversteering on power corner exit;
3. front diff, rear diff = neutral on corner entry; neutral on power corner exit.
I'm running #2. What are you guys running?
drfritz: Thanks man! Lots of options for changing things on a race day.
#5263
Most of the time front one way and rear diff.....
#5265
Tech Champion
iTrader: (91)
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Thanks for everyone's suggestion for fixing my understeer problem. I found this at another forum and wondered what everyone's thoughts are on this:
1. front solid, rear diff = understeering on corner entry; oversteer on power corner exit;
2. front 1-way, rear diff = oversteering on corner entry; oversteering on power corner exit;
3. front diff, rear diff = neutral on corner entry; neutral on power corner exit.
I'm running #2. What are you guys running?
drfritz: Thanks man! Lots of options for changing things on a race day.
1. front solid, rear diff = understeering on corner entry; oversteer on power corner exit;
2. front 1-way, rear diff = oversteering on corner entry; oversteering on power corner exit;
3. front diff, rear diff = neutral on corner entry; neutral on power corner exit.
I'm running #2. What are you guys running?
drfritz: Thanks man! Lots of options for changing things on a race day.
1mm clip all around neutral setting equal entry & exit arms in middle positon
1mm clip front 2 mm clip back neutral entry positive exit semi aggressive
0 clip front 3 mm clip back aggressive entry slugish exit arms forward