Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Harry i have been running the clutch nut this way since i had the G4S and this is how Dennis Richey was telling everyone how to use it. I am learning all the time though trying to understand the whole clutch setup better...
7. Install the clutch shoe silver spring retainer, spring and nut. Install the nut with the step facing away from the spring.
Tighten the nut down until you have 2 threads showing at the end of the flywheel nut. This is where you will start for spring adjustment.
From KFactory Site.
the method I use, it's common..
1) Ensure the flywheel colette fits well, doesnt protrude out the front and has "just enough" clearance at the rear and mount the flywheel using a flywheel tool
2) Install throws, clutch plate, clutch, spring and screw down the clutch nut as stated above, less threads for lime or red, orange.. I usually use my fingers until it's hard to turn.
3) With lower bearing removed from Clutch bell and upper in place, set clutch bell onto shoe at it's ZERO point and use venier calipers to and ZERO off vernier from the crank shaft to edge of clutch bell
4) Remove bell, place an old thrustbearing washer over crank against the clutch but, bearing ridges facing upwards and place lower bearing onto this. By placing the clutch bell onto it first, you will feel if there's a gap or not by pressing firmly against it and feeling if it no longer runs against the clutch shoe. Take a measurement of the gap using ZEROED verniers as per step three and shim the thrustbearing until you get to .5 -.6mm.
NOTE: I add larger shims under the thrust bearing "washer" and a single small shim above it and against the lower bearing as to not stress shims which will deform as the lower bearing spins or it can and usually will change the gap.
5) Gap is set, grease and install your thrust bearings.. Theres a smaller hole in one of the thrust bearing washers, (I think that rests against the thrust bearing retainer - pls correct me if wrong) and begin shimming the retainer (I start with another thrust bearing washer if possible). Shim the thrust bearing downwards from the retainer using large shims until u achieve a .1mm gap. Many people debate over this gap in terms of performance, I simply accommodate for heat expansion. press down on the retainer ensureing you arent stressing the thrust bearing.
6) Firmly holding the flywheel tighten the clutch screw, if there's additional end play, your screw may be too long or you can use small shims on the screw.
Things to note:
Less shims the better, using too many thin shims can cause them to slip, heat up and deform.
Keep your thrust bearings greased, TM thrust bearings are great along with all their bearings.
Ensure collette is right lenght and flywheel isnt rubbing against the block nor protuding so much you dont have crank length.
As for tuning, for me it's a matter of getting it right and there's lots of info regarding the fine tuning which is beyond our performance level. So I just get my clutches working well and engaging at the power band I want to engage at. Getting into the end play and how hard the clutch bites, what weights to use with certain spring rates and how much slip versus bite on the shoe is something you can experiement with later.
PS: Bundy, pls note that this is an ass about way of doing it as the END PLAY adds to the the GAP hence the .5-.6mm gap, I just find it easier than re-screwing in the retainer and thrust bearing. Works fine for me.