wagnerov

iTrader: (4)

Setup sheet will be coming up tomorrow, we found a nice dialed setup for the car that should work pretty much anywhere as a good starting point. The main thing was the shock angle in the rear...more on that later. Quick note: use the B-steering block with the holes all the way forward. Lots of low-speed steering.

We spent most of qualifying chasing the engine in Kevin's car. I could never get it tuned the way it should have been. The other major issue was the clutch setting (not material!)...we ended up going with the Rulon red shoe and a reeeeeally slippy setting as the track was really hard on clutches, they would go heavy after a few minutes. Of course, most of the other teams know this already, so we had a lot of catch up to do with only two drivers. For what it's worth, I won the 30-minute E-main with the car without any chassis difficulties, even when the turbo plug popped. Same thing happened in the D after the bumpup.

Ah well, next year.

SERPENTFREAK69

whats kind of engine did u use?choco

jag

Congrats on the good finish with an un-tested car. That is a very tough track. About half the cars that start the main finish.

My car is almost finished but I'm having a problem with the flywheel not mounting with the collet I have. Since the clutch did not come with a collet I am left trying to use the one that came with my Mega ZX21. The taper on the collet does not seem to match the flywheel and when the clutch nut is tightened it bottoms out before the flywheel is tight. I could shim the collet but it would need a few shims and I don't feel comfortable with the whole setup. Could you provide some guidance?

Thanks

roadrage

iTrader: (14)

at my hobby shop it comes read-to-run for only $399

jag

From what I hear the RTR is a bit different than the kit.

wagnerov

iTrader: (4)

Hi Jag,

I used a collet from our Swift buggy, the interference fit seems to be fine. It's at least 6mm long.

Here's the qualifying setup from Kevin's car at the Winternats:

Front:
Camber: -2
Caster: One large clip in front of the upper arms
Toe: 1 out
Shock oil: 450cps
Shock Spring: short Mugen white
Shock Piston: 2-hole
Shock mounted on lowest hole on tower
Sway bar: 45 degrees
Droop: 1
Long wheelbase setting
All roll center blocks set on low
"B" Servo Saver, forward holes

Rear:
Camber: -2
Toe: 2 in
Shock Oil: 450cps
Shock Spring: long Mugen white
Shock Piston: 2-hole
Shock mounted on hole drilled 10mm up from tower mounting screw, some dremeling necessary
Sway bar: X82019 Bar dremeled down to 2mm
Droop: 10 (measured under hub carrier)

Clutch:
All stock parts except for X820917 Rulon shoe. 1mm measurement from top of clutch nut to spring retainer.

Gearing:
Stock

Engine:
Collari LC21

Pipe:
Power Racing Y2086 Hard Anodized pipe

Body:
Y9190 Lola VDS

Tires:
Enneti 35's for practice, Jaco 38's for qualifying and main events.

Hope that gets some of you started. The biggest thing was lowering the shocks, and the new shock position. No more chatter!

jag

Thanks for the info.

Could I get a little more on the collet? I'm not familiar with a Swift Buggy. Is that the brand? Did you use a shim/washer behind the collet?

wagnerov

iTrader: (4)

The Swift is another car that PRP imported...I'm thinking almost any buggy collet will work as long as the crank diameter is 7mm.

Is the Mega engine Picco-based? If so, it may have a 6mm crankshaft...those are a real pain in the butt to find collets for. I know all the older Piccos use a 6mm collet, but I'm not sure about the new stuff. Perhaps a Serpent collet will fit better.

jag

Yes, the Mega is Picco based. I will check with Serpent but I think the collet that comes with the Mega will probably be the only one they have. Maybe the 950R has a different one.

I found a collet that seems to match the taper but the flywheel sits very close to the engine and the nut bottoms out before the flywheel is tight. Should I just shim the collet out until it tightens? I will have to put several shims in there.

mo

iTrader: (7)

jag. I also have the mega engine in my XR/8 and yes, I just shimmed it out to where the clutch nut would tighten.

jag

Did your flywheel fit good on the collet? Mine wobbles a little. I don't think the taper is the same. Could that be right?

Have you replaced your crankshaft?

mo

iTrader: (7)

I never noticed a wobble. As long as it sits straight and tight when you tighted down the clutch nut, it should be fine. I haven't had mine on the track yet but I've run 5 tanks on the bench for break-in. I haven't had the crank replaced. I just got the engine last week. How are you supposed to know if it needs to be replaced?

jag

I was told by Doug at Serpent USA that the crank should be replaced. I do not know at what point in time they figured out that the crank was faulty so maybe the newest ones have been fixed. I would contact Serpent or your LHS.

How many mm's of shims did you use?

RBCHOCO

I SENT MY ENGINE IN FOR A NEW CRANKSHAFT ,SO I SHOULD GET IT BACK BY NEXT WEEK....CHOCO

jag

He told me they were waiting for the shipment of cranks and it would be 7 to 10 days. He told me that last thursday.