New 1/8 on-road "XR8"
#166
Suspended
HAHAHAH,U ARE 2 FUNNY MIKE...WHATS UP?U NEED TO GET THAT MEGA ENGINE...CHOCO
#167
Choco,
I will prob get the mega motor I cant see spending another 200.00 on a rex 321p or any other race motor when the mega motor is 250.00 and just as good.I am almost done building my Delta XP4,I seen another thread you started about the xp4,if you have the evolva you wont need the xp4 pretty much the same car.different radio plate and delta made the chassi.
mike
I will prob get the mega motor I cant see spending another 200.00 on a rex 321p or any other race motor when the mega motor is 250.00 and just as good.I am almost done building my Delta XP4,I seen another thread you started about the xp4,if you have the evolva you wont need the xp4 pretty much the same car.different radio plate and delta made the chassi.
mike
#168
Suspended
i see.....i would love to see pics of your in progress pics of your xp4....choco
#169
Suspended
THE RTR IS ALREADY OUT.....I WOULD LOVE TO SEE A PIC OF THE BODY THAT COMES WITH IT....CHOCO
#170
Questions
I am building one of these cars and the directions are terrible. Would it have killed them to type a few words of wisdom?
Anyway, on to my questions. If anybody out there has built and raced this car I could use some guidance.
- Which servo saver arm is better "A" or "B"?
- Which gear did you use for the rear end, 45t or 46t and why?
- How tight does the servo saver need to be and is the spring supposed to sit on the collar of the adjusting nut? The spring on mine will not fit over the recess in the adjusting nut.
- Does the front belt rub on the servo saver assembly? I have the pulley on the mid-shaft all the way to the left and the belt still rubs... a little.
- Is there anything I need to know about building the rear of the car? That is the next step.
I only have the front of the car assembled but the kit looks pretty good. I just wish they would have included more info in the instructions.
Thanks.
Anyway, on to my questions. If anybody out there has built and raced this car I could use some guidance.
- Which servo saver arm is better "A" or "B"?
- Which gear did you use for the rear end, 45t or 46t and why?
- How tight does the servo saver need to be and is the spring supposed to sit on the collar of the adjusting nut? The spring on mine will not fit over the recess in the adjusting nut.
- Does the front belt rub on the servo saver assembly? I have the pulley on the mid-shaft all the way to the left and the belt still rubs... a little.
- Is there anything I need to know about building the rear of the car? That is the next step.
I only have the front of the car assembled but the kit looks pretty good. I just wish they would have included more info in the instructions.
Thanks.
#171
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Hi Jag,
The manual does leave something to be desired in the way of written instructions...we're working on that.
To answer your questions:
1) There is no better servo saver, it really depends on the track you race on. I started out with the "B" block with the steering rods in the rear position. Putting them in the forward hole should give you a little bit better low-speed, tight corner steering.
2) All the cars come with only one rear "big" pulley as far as I know. There are two side pulley options, though. 25T and 26T. 26T is a good place to start, as this won't overdrive the front tires. 25T is for really high bite tracks.
3) The spring has to be compressed a bit to get the collar on. There should only be a thread or two showing when it's on there...it's pretty tight like that without destroying the servo if you hit something.
4) I had to file the corner of the servo saver about 1-2mm on my car to keep it from hitting the belt, even when the pulley was moved over as far as it could go.
5) The rear of the car is more straightforward. The two-speed settings are probably a bit ambiguous, just turn the shiftpoint out about 3 turns from fully in. The steel two-speed shaft should rock back and forth freely without slop within the shoes, don't overtighten the 3mm setscrews/barrels that hold it in place. The brake pads will be tight at first, they'll either break in with the first run, or you can sand them down to make things nice and free right off the line. I'll get some clutch settings soon, we ran the car this weekend and the clutch is awesome right out of the box (with the right settings of course). Set up the rear body mount on the innermost hole, the lowest setting.
Hope that answers your questions. We'll have more setup information soon.
The manual does leave something to be desired in the way of written instructions...we're working on that.
To answer your questions:
1) There is no better servo saver, it really depends on the track you race on. I started out with the "B" block with the steering rods in the rear position. Putting them in the forward hole should give you a little bit better low-speed, tight corner steering.
2) All the cars come with only one rear "big" pulley as far as I know. There are two side pulley options, though. 25T and 26T. 26T is a good place to start, as this won't overdrive the front tires. 25T is for really high bite tracks.
3) The spring has to be compressed a bit to get the collar on. There should only be a thread or two showing when it's on there...it's pretty tight like that without destroying the servo if you hit something.
4) I had to file the corner of the servo saver about 1-2mm on my car to keep it from hitting the belt, even when the pulley was moved over as far as it could go.
5) The rear of the car is more straightforward. The two-speed settings are probably a bit ambiguous, just turn the shiftpoint out about 3 turns from fully in. The steel two-speed shaft should rock back and forth freely without slop within the shoes, don't overtighten the 3mm setscrews/barrels that hold it in place. The brake pads will be tight at first, they'll either break in with the first run, or you can sand them down to make things nice and free right off the line. I'll get some clutch settings soon, we ran the car this weekend and the clutch is awesome right out of the box (with the right settings of course). Set up the rear body mount on the innermost hole, the lowest setting.
Hope that answers your questions. We'll have more setup information soon.
#172
Oops, you are right. What I meant was 25 or 26 not 45 or 46. Well I got lucky and used the 26t pulley and the "B" servo lever.
I did not need to compress the spring on the servo saver to get the collar on. I tightened it by hand pretty tight and there are about 4 threads showing but the spring is riding on the very top of the adjusting nut. It will not slide over the recess.
I will let you know how the rear goes.
Thanks for the information and keep me posted on any further updates.
jag
I did not need to compress the spring on the servo saver to get the collar on. I tightened it by hand pretty tight and there are about 4 threads showing but the spring is riding on the very top of the adjusting nut. It will not slide over the recess.
I will let you know how the rear goes.
Thanks for the information and keep me posted on any further updates.
jag
#173
Battery
What is the correct battery pack to use in this car?
Also, the manual says that the rear sway bar links should be 50 - 55mm. Where is a good starting point and what effect does lenghtening/shortening the rods have?
Thanks
Also, the manual says that the rear sway bar links should be 50 - 55mm. Where is a good starting point and what effect does lenghtening/shortening the rods have?
Thanks
#174
Suspended
maybe the serpent batt pack works?i wonder....choco
#175
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Well I was just browsing Ace Hobbies site and I saw this car. I may have to get one. I just wish it fit old picco wheels, as I have a box full and no car to put them on. This XR8 car doenst even look as primitive as I thought a 389.00 car would look. anyways, who knows whats next. I was reading MyTSN months ago about how serpent is also moving to budget orient some hi-end cars like this.
#177
Originally posted by jfc_tech
so any nearby distributor here in Asia? If none..we would like to be as one. Sure a good sell here. well to compete the 950R of coz.
anyone knows who to contact? thanks.
so any nearby distributor here in Asia? If none..we would like to be as one. Sure a good sell here. well to compete the 950R of coz.
anyone knows who to contact? thanks.
Cheers
#179
Tech Master
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: JOHOR BAHRU, MALAYSIA but now working in SHANGHAI
Posts: 1,797
Originally posted by jfc_tech
still no response from any distributor or seller of this Kit
maybe they dont want to spread the kit world wide. oh well, i still hoping that someone can lead me to the relevant address or contact number. my friend wanna sell this kit in our region here. thanks.
still no response from any distributor or seller of this Kit
maybe they dont want to spread the kit world wide. oh well, i still hoping that someone can lead me to the relevant address or contact number. my friend wanna sell this kit in our region here. thanks.
and try from there... they are from GuangDong i believe....
good luck!!
mop
#180
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
thanks mop...but the website din publish anything for the 1/8 XR8. i got info from Dino already.
the problem now is no where to find out how this kit perform? anyone already put it on track? hows the handling? thanks for any feedback.
if the response is good..we gonna sell this kit here. Big IF
the problem now is no where to find out how this kit perform? anyone already put it on track? hows the handling? thanks for any feedback.
if the response is good..we gonna sell this kit here. Big IF