Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road
Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale >

Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-27-2013, 05:54 AM
  #856  
Tech Initiate
 
MSMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 30
Default

Almost done!
Attached Thumbnails Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale-001.jpg  
MSMike is offline  
Old 05-27-2013, 05:59 AM
  #857  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default More off power steering

Hey guys, so during my last race I had I tried getting more off power steering but the only way I managed was to run a 2 split shore difference (softer upfront).

Really liked the way the car handled off power but unfortunately the front tires didn't survive the 40 min race. at the 30 min the front was scrubbing all over the pace once I hit the slightest amount of brakes.

Was running chrome spring all round, thought of running black spring or progressive black spring in the front.

What do you suggest?
speed6 is offline  
Old 05-28-2013, 08:08 PM
  #858  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by speed6
Hey guys, so during my last race I had I tried getting more off power steering but the only way I managed was to run a 2 split shore difference (softer upfront).

Really liked the way the car handled off power but unfortunately the front tires didn't survive the 40 min race. at the 30 min the front was scrubbing all over the pace once I hit the slightest amount of brakes.

Was running chrome spring all round, thought of running black spring or progressive black spring in the front.

What do you suggest?
Unless you run harder tires or the ware rate is low anything over 30 mins a tire change is needed

your lap times will show it to

At our last Series race 30 min final. At the 20 min mark I could tell the car was in need of tires but I was controlling my pace and conserving tires. (Just like F1)

anyways I lose almost 1 second per lap at the 20 min mark, smaller tires and costing around the track saving tire in case i have to speed up, If i was to pit at that point I would lose 15 seconds between coming in to stop and fuel and tires, it would take me 15 laps about 4 mins and 30 seconds to catch that back up and then I would gain a lap over the last 5 mins.

If no one else is pitting I dont bother to stop because there pace isnt going to be any better, everyones car is getting slower

Or plan your tire size better.

I ran 32 Fronts 35 rear
75.5LR 75RR 68LF 68RF

My left rear had the most ware down to 68.2

To get these tires to last 40 mins I would have to run 37 fronts and 40 rears and the car would just be so far off the pace, even 35f 37r would slow the car enough that a pit stop and soft tires would be much faster

I hope that this info helps you out some
Vector03cobra is offline  
Old 05-29-2013, 12:12 AM
  #859  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

Originally Posted by Vector03cobra
Unless you run harder tires or the ware rate is low anything over 30 mins a tire change is needed

your lap times will show it to

At our last Series race 30 min final. At the 20 min mark I could tell the car was in need of tires but I was controlling my pace and conserving tires. (Just like F1)

anyways I lose almost 1 second per lap at the 20 min mark, smaller tires and costing around the track saving tire in case i have to speed up, If i was to pit at that point I would lose 15 seconds between coming in to stop and fuel and tires, it would take me 15 laps about 4 mins and 30 seconds to catch that back up and then I would gain a lap over the last 5 mins.

If no one else is pitting I dont bother to stop because there pace isnt going to be any better, everyones car is getting slower

Or plan your tire size better.

I ran 32 Fronts 35 rear
75.5LR 75RR 68LF 68RF

My left rear had the most ware down to 68.2

To get these tires to last 40 mins I would have to run 37 fronts and 40 rears and the car would just be so far off the pace, even 35f 37r would slow the car enough that a pit stop and soft tires would be much faster

I hope that this info helps you out some
thanks will try some testing with the new springs and see how it goes
speed6 is offline  
Old 05-30-2013, 09:59 AM
  #860  
Tech Initiate
 
MSMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 30
Default

Ready for Run !!!!!
Attached Thumbnails Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale-001.jpg   Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale-002.jpg   Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale-003.jpg   Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale-004.jpg   Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale-005.jpg  

MSMike is offline  
Old 05-30-2013, 10:38 PM
  #861  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
gsxr0311's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Francisco CA
Posts: 1,243
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

nice, good luck! is that the collari engine?
gsxr0311 is offline  
Old 05-31-2013, 09:47 AM
  #862  
Tech Initiate
 
MSMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 30
Default

Thank you!
No one MX 21 MAX XL7
MSMike is offline  
Old 06-02-2013, 08:16 AM
  #863  
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
 
rcmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: plano,tx
Posts: 1,723
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RC-Netshop.dk
Hi guys,

We got the radio box brackets back on stock, price are 12EURO or app. 16USD...

My good ol Buddy in Waco texas is going to love this!!!
rcmike is offline  
Old 06-09-2013, 01:34 PM
  #864  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default Roll over bar / handle

Hey guys, which brands use the same handle bar?
speed6 is offline  
Old 06-10-2013, 12:24 PM
  #865  
Tech Regular
 
dougday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 353
Default

Originally Posted by speed6
Hey guys, which brands use the same handle bar?
The serpent handle bar works very well
dougday is offline  
Old 06-17-2013, 02:56 AM
  #866  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default 1st and 2nd shaft - bearings and 2speed stripping problems

Dear all,

Last Saturday i started stripping 2nd gears once again. Already had this issue a couple of months ago and found out that the screws in the rear bulkhead that fix with the main shaft towers got loose so it was causing too much flex.

Fixed the screws and problem solved.

Lately i noticed that the bearings that hold the main shaft especially the one on the 2speed where getting busted after a 30 min race.

To make it worse last Saturday i stripped 2 x 2nd gears, i thought because of the failed bearings but still they weren't that bad.

I also noticed that the 2nd wobbles so much that its touching a bit the swaybar?

What do you guys suggest?

Thanks
speed6 is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 03:32 AM
  #867  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

Originally Posted by speed6
Dear all,

Last Saturday i started stripping 2nd gears once again. Already had this issue a couple of months ago and found out that the screws in the rear bulkhead that fix with the main shaft towers got loose so it was causing too much flex.

Fixed the screws and problem solved.

Lately i noticed that the bearings that hold the main shaft especially the one on the 2speed where getting busted after a 30 min race.

To make it worse last Saturday i stripped 2 x 2nd gears, i thought because of the failed bearings but still they weren't that bad.

I also noticed that the 2nd wobbles so much that its touching a bit the swaybar?

What do you guys suggest?

Thanks
Thanks to a personal msg I realized that the main cause of stripping the 2nd gears was because 99% my main shaft has like small dent where the once-way grips therefore it was locking up the tranny.

Still can't understand why the bearings are getting busted so easily.
I also noticed that there is quite some tension on them because of the rear belt, is this normal, mine is set like the manual says i.e. default.
speed6 is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 03:38 AM
  #868  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default Difference between Main Shaft Collari Edition & Hard Coated

What the difference between these shafts, from the product code looks like the Collari edition is the 3rd one as it has a C at the end of the part number.

Which is best in order not to have problems with the bloody one way.

Thanks
speed6 is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 01:39 PM
  #869  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 423
Default

Originally Posted by speed6
What the difference between these shafts, from the product code looks like the Collari edition is the 3rd one as it has a C at the end of the part number.

Which is best in order not to have problems with the bloody one way.

Thanks
Latest and best is CAP 2020C and use it with the CAP 2058B one-way. You should not have any problems with this combo.
desotoracing is offline  
Old 06-25-2013, 03:10 PM
  #870  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

Originally Posted by desotoracing
Latest and best is CAP 2020C and use it with the CAP 2058B one-way. You should not have any problems with this combo.
Do I have to replace the one way aswell? the one I am using is like new

What's the difference exactly bigger one way bearing?
speed6 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.