Pro Models

Tks for the info wingracer.

PMSorber

Here you go:

Width: 253 / 264
Hight: 8 / 9 on 74 / 67,5 wheels
Toe front: 1,5 (3 total)
Toe rear: 2,5 (5 total) depending a bit on rear stability
Camber front: 1 / 1,5
Camber rear: 2 / 2,5
Caster front: 3mm (total)
Front rollbar: soft
Rear rollbar: standard
Downstops: 1 / 7
Excenter front: short (to rear)
Excenter rear: none, big bearings
Upright spacer front under steering linkage: 2mm
Upright spacer rear: 3mm
Akkerman: pulled fully to the front
Rear lower A-arms: mid position
Damper-front: 650 1 hole 70% rebounce
Damper spring front: Serpent green (new), blue or red standard will work as well.
Damper-rear: 800 3 hole 20% rebounce
Damper spring rear: Serpent blue front spring (new), Blue will work as well.
Body: P909
Body position: 24mm
Gurney: 10 - 13 mm (depending upon rear stability)

To gain more corner entry steering you can raise the rear end of you upper front A-arms. Spring load is important, setup the ridehight correct for the correct load.

Goodluck!

avs

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the suggestions, but can i ask you to explain some things?

for ackerman, are you using the rear servosaver post position?

what shock positions are you using? are they the usual middle in front and lowest/inner on the rear?

i am not familiar with serpent springs, but they are listed as having the same spring rate front or rear for a given color. so what is the purpose in using the front spring on the rear? is it to be more progressive or ?

ugglasdav

quick question. do u have to set ur droop before u set ur chamber. or can us set up ur chamber and then do the droop afterwords. thanks. also can anyone give me some setup tips based around the standard setup for a very low traction track.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

White or dark green springs, softer oil, more overdrive, if you need more steering, raise the rear lower arms.

PMSorber

1 - Ackerman, yes rear position
2 - mid front, one up from lowest rear
3 - higher initial action force (need more initial power to get a spring rate)

The sequence is:

1 - set up riding hight on a correct set of tires.
2 - set up droop (downstops) without and with rear roll-bar
3 - set up rear toe
4 - set up rear camber

I would not do that. It takes bite / grip away rear, resulting in more steering. I would sooner opt for roll-center change at the front (besite springs, oil etc). So change the front.

dyoung

iTrader: (6)

Does anyone know for sure what plastic the new car kits come with? The original softer plastic, or the hard or even extra hard plastic?
Thx

ugglasdav

another quick question, can i use 13mm droop guage blocks for a 1/8 car?. thanks

PMSorber

No.

In the kit there is normal plastic, I would not say softer plastic.

ugglasdav

what size blocks would i need

avs

iTrader: (2)

i would think it depends on the gauge you have to measure. you just want to be able to measure between 10mm above to 2mm below the lower surface of the chassis plate.

PMSorber

You would need 20mm blocks.

http://www.teamcracing.net/index.php...mart&Itemid=71

GMartinez

iTrader: (91)

http://www.superiorhobbies.com/istar...d=SMR600011!SH

Pro Models

hi guys are the majority of you using a softer shore tire up front to gain more steering or is the traditional same shore all around still being used?

Would a 35/32 be the right choice ?

avs

iTrader: (2)

for the past few years a step softer front has been common. last week i used 32/35 for qualifiers and 35/37 for the main.

things have changed a lot, 35/30 was the norm on my serpent vector.