Kyosho 2D Vs 4D
 

As the title suggests, Id like to get a comparison on these 2 setups. Which one would give me more slip upon contact/less initial bite if they were both to engage at about the same RPM?
Ive been using the 4D for some time because I was able to get it to engage low enough where I run, but Im thinking of going back to 2D. Would I be able to get more slippage out of the 2D more than using all 4 weights?
Thanks in advance, Jamie.

Use the Sirio Clutch. Huge difference.....

I would use whatever would be the best (Sirio, Capricorn, Kyosho 3D) but for now, I only have the 2D/4D clutch, so which would give me the most/least slip with the same clutch setup? 2D or 4D?

TTT

slipage of cluth
 

if your gap is set the same and spring tension is identical then the four shoes would engage earlier then the 2 shoes. depending on the adjustment of tension then both could be made to slip. but if the clutch is fully engaged you don't want it to be slipping this will cause excessive wear on the clutch shoe and motor will run hotter. are you looking for an earlier engagement of the clutch and a softer engagement for lower traction track? if so use a stock spring. a harder or stiffer spring will engage harder and you will get wheel spin on low traction tracks.

What Im after really is a comparison with identical setups, but obviously with the 4d, to get the same engagement as the 2d you would have to increase the tension.
But in doing that, if the engagement point and clutch gap are the same, say 0.3mm gap and 15K RPM contact point, the 4D would slip less and grip harder?

clutch
 

remember if you go to soft with the tension you will also overheat your motor it will engage to early

Hmm, well I dont go to early, otherwise I just get wheelspin where I run. For a permanent track Ill be running at next month, Id definitely turn up the spring and change the gap from 0.3mm to 0.4 or 0.5mm just because it has so much more grip.

clutch gap
 

you should run the same gap just loosen or tighten the tension depending on the traction

True, I guess Ill just have to try it all out! Thanks Speedy!

So i have a question to piggy back this one, what if i have a 2d clutch and i add set screws to the little holes in the weights, would that be alike a 2.5d clutch? And would this be useful for medium low bite tracks?

:lol::lol::lol::lol:
Good question! I know it only makes you run a harder spring tension if you were to keep the rev point the same as running without set-screws, so i would think because of that spring tension increase it makes the "grab" a little harder.
Just going from what was said before (speedy's first post here)

weights
 

adding weights would make the clutch engage earlier with the same tension so it would work on low traction track but adding weights and tightening the tension would work with higher traction

+1 Petey
if you go from the 2d setting of .5 gap & let say .9 spring tension & then switch to a 4d you would need to add more spring tension if not your clutch would be heavy & heatup the engine
I always felt the 3d was the ticket all around u just have to double check the spring for wear & replace the spring if you notice a difference of .5 from a used spring comparing to a new one

OK, bit of a restart here.

What I want to know is this:
2D vs 4D.
If the engagement point is identical to each other, say at full throttle from a standstill I have them both making contact at 20k RPM.
With that, you have an identical gap, eg 0.5mm

I know that the 4D spring retainer screw is going to sit closer towards the shoe because its holding more weight down, the question is:
Will one version feel as if the gap is different to the other eg. the 4D feels like a 2D but with a 0.7mm gap.
Does that make sense??